Hmm. Strange symptoms.. (2001 2500HD - ding ding ding)

[jocko]

Went out to my 01 2500HD the other day - and the fob didn't unlock or blink the lights. Got in, turned the key, nothing. Hmm.. Batt is <3 months old. BUT, noticed when I removed the key and got out of the truck and closed the door - a constant ding ding ding went off in the interior - a different ding tone than I've ever heard before.. would not stop though, even when I got back in and turned on the key or even after removing the key and I got back out.. Didn't have time to troubleshoot, was running late for work, so jumped in the 'ol faithful (the other 2001 with almost 300k on it) and of course it started right up. Will go look at it in the morning, but has anyone ever this type of symptom? With the new batt and the way it was acting, I'm thinking security system may have been set off or something. Weird... Looking fwd to digging into it in the morning. Could be the ignition chime ground got bent or something... Wondering if it's been tampered with, was sitting for a few weeks. Hmm.

[Palf70Step]

I have had 2 were the issue was the door latch mechanism was gummed up. I sprayed in CRC electric lubricate and worked it in and the issue fixed itself. Those lock modules are ridiculously expensive and it appears the grease they come with gets hard and the latches stick as if the door is open. I'd have to do it again about a month or so later I guess to keep it moist.

[jocko]

Thanks Bill - why did that cause a drain on your battery, was the courtesy lamp staying on after you walked away or something like that? My latch seems to be ok, doors latch, lock, etc ok.

My batt was down to 6-7 volts, and my jumper didn't help at all. Determined the dinging was the ignition sw chime. Thinking harder about the switch ground spade. I DO have a gps power cord that does have a blue power light on it - I'd be surprised if that could kill a batt though (then again I didn't drive the truck for about 2 weeks) - it was plugged into the lighter but not connected to the GPS. But there is bluetooth to the backup lamp in it - but of course no lights were on, only powered when in rev. Still scratchin my head on this one.

[Palf70Step]

Yes, the main thing it left on was the radio/stereo. That was the main reason I knew it was time to redo the spray on the switch, as radio would not shut off with ignition.

[Boog]

I have had an intermittent battery drain in my 03 Tahoe also. I know normally when exiting the vehicle the radio goes off as soon as I pull the door handle. Occasionally it stays on even after I get out. After scoping out new door latches and cussing gm designers I sprayed the latch assembly inside the door at Hatzie's suggestion and removed the wire plug and cleaned it with electronics cleaner. So far it's had no battery drain. It's an old truck so I do not use the alarm either since the truck sits for weeks at a time.

[jocko]

Thx Boog, Thx Bill. I got a fully charged battery back in it and did a parasitic drain check and am seeing 1.8A, so I do have something causing the problem, I think 50mA is about the most I should be seeing. My radio isn't staying on after shutting down or anything like that, all lights off, etc. I did pull the GPS charger and that didn't change the amperage at all, but wasn't really expecting that to be the cause, have the same GPS in my other 2001 and the charger is always plugged in (not to the gps, but to the dc plug). Won't have time this week with with, but next weekend will plan to pull fuses until I can figure out at least what circuit the problem is on. Batt disconnected for now to avoid draining it. The only non-stock mods to the truck are the addition of the camper shell and a bluetooth b/u cam. No lights on in the camper and the b/u cam is only powered when the right rear b/u lamp is on (in reverse only).

Thanks again for the input gents, will take a look at the ol door latch too - but with a charged batt, I'm not seeing any of the indicators you all have mentioned just yet.

[jocko]

Well, finally got a chance to do a little work on it. It's also kind of nice to have another 2001 Silverado sitting right next to it to do a little comparison/sanity check. Oddly, found NO parasitic loss today on the truck in question, which I find odd. But one thing I learned, which leads me to believe I may have mis-measured the amperage last time. See post #9 for my conclusions - I've chopped them out of here and re-written more clearly below (I hope ).

[hatzie]

I'm chasing an intermittent in the EVAP vent circuit and 4wd wiring that disappears as soon as I take out the tools. They're miserable to find.
Eventually it'll stay dead when I start chasing it. Hopefully sooner rather than later for both of us.

[jocko]

Ha, yeah, it's a head scratcher. I needed to revise some of my post above (and did) - if I summarize everything I've learned in this process, it's as follows:

- using good clamps and allowing the amp meter connection to stabilize for about 30 sec after connecting, a more accurate steady state draw can be determined (I was initially looking at the reading at a glance with pin probes and seeing a higher draw) - so the clamps and patience helped. Not sure what that initial 30 sec draw is (it's not significant, but could drain a batt if it were more permanent - approx 1+ A initially, my guess it's related to re-establishing the security system after a battery disconnect).
- with truck shut down, key out, all lights off, no accessory chargers plugged in (and with waiting for approx 30 sec for draw to stabilize after connecting the meter between the negative cable and the negative post: 60 mA drain is present, which is about normal (to keep clock alive, etc)
- with 1 ac charger plugged in (one that has a small light that glows when it's powered): 120 mA drain is present (i.e. 1 charger (with an indicator light) doubles the draw).

I've found no other drains on the batt, so I think my conclusion is this - when driving every day, the extra 60 mA of the charger equates to no impact on batt drainage - but when letting it sit for 2-3 weeks without starting, it can matter. So, I'm making it a habit to disconnect the dc power outlet connections (phone or gps chargers with indicator lights, etc) if I know it's gonna be parked for awhile. And if it's gonna be a long while, I hook up the battery tender, which is quick and painless (as long as I remember to disconnect it before I hop in and drive off, dragging the charger down the highway )

[1976gmc20]

In the winter especially, I keep track on a chalkboard in the kitchen the last time each vehicle was started/driven. I try not to go over two weeks.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

In the winter especially, I keep track on a chalkboard in the kitchen the last time each vehicle was started/driven. I try not to go over two weeks.

That's good advice - I try to do the same, but from memory. Apparently I need a chalkboard, no kidding.

Btw, I forgot to mention that I installed these little replacement battery cable bolts in the process. Not a big deal but kinda handy, just carry a 1/4" drive ratchet around in the truck instead of a battery post wrench in case you need to disconnect a cable (but pliers would also do in a pinch). Makes for nice clamping/jumping/testing surface

betterbatterybolt (pic from internet, not my truck)

They replace the current bolts in your side terminal cables, pop out the old and in the new. If I count how many times over the years I've given someone a batt jump, these would have been money well spent. But they come in handy for trickle charging and testing, etc and give a nice little handhold to screw in batt bolts easily by hand, then just tighten with the 1/4 ratchet.

[hatzie]

I wish I could use those on my 05. They'd fit the GMC on the LH battery.

The clearance between the fuse/relay panel and the stock battery bolts on my 2005 is just too tight for those. I have to use a ratcheting box end wrench because I can't get a ratchet and socket in there.

I use a Ctek 7002 on my Impala over the winter. The 7002 is overkill for the job. I originally bought it for the high frequency pulse rehab function to bring back dying batteries in my flip cars. It doesn't make em new but it breathes additional life into them that a regular charger wouldn't.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by jocko

That's good advice - I try to do the same, but from memory. Apparently I need a chalkboard, no kidding.

Btw, I forgot to mention that I installed these little replacement battery cable bolts in the process. Not a big deal but kinda handy, just carry a 1/4" drive ratchet around in the truck instead of a battery post wrench in case you need to disconnect a cable (but pliers would also do in a pinch). Makes for nice clamping/jumping/testing surface

betterbatterybolt (pic from internet, not my truck)

They replace the current bolts in your side terminal cables, pop out the old and in the new. If I count how many times over the years I've given someone a batt jump, these would have been money well spent. But they come in handy for trickle charging and testing, etc and give a nice little handhold to screw in batt bolts easily by hand, then just tighten with the 1/4 ratchet.

I've been getting the batteries that have both top post and side connections.

Take the covers off the top posts and you can attach jumper or charger cables.

[jocko]

Yep, dual post is a good way to do it also.
I'm with you Hatzie, it is tight with the fuze panel, especially on my 2500, I keep a skinny gearwrench ratchet in my gb, seems to work pretty well (no button release to get in the way).