My GMC re-restoration

[Moore87]

Well, I have been a member here since 2009, and this is my first "real" post.
I have been slowly accumulating parts for this build over the past year or so and am ready to get started. This is up to date, hopefully trying to work through it quickly and have it 100% complete by the end of 2021. I now work from home full-time so i am able to go out and work on it immediately after work in my home shop so hopefully i make steady progress.

Ill probably catch some crap for chopping up this truck in the condition its in but its mine and I dont care haha.

A bit of background.

I worked with my dad, uncle and grapndpa to restore this truck about 15-16 years ago. At the time, we tried to get it put back together but just to "driver" type condition.

There have always been minor issues that I have worked on- no problem. But there are some issues that really have bugged me. Mainly panel fitment. The aftermarket panels were just installed, no fitting and right to paint. The body shop did excellent paint work, its mirror like in most places, but the panel fitment is horrendous. The doors have to be slammed hard enough where the welds broke on the upper window hoop on both sides

Recently started getting some paint cracking in the drip rails and i see some rust bubbling up around the fuel filler in the cab. So my idea, go ahead and tear it down and fix everything i dont like.

A few specs
ZZ4 crate engine
TH350
3.08 gear open diff

Completed work
1. FiTech fuel injection
2. Boyd welding fuel tank
3. NVU guages
4. Ron davis radiator with dual electric fans
5. Dakota digital fan controller
6. Porterbuilt front lower control arms +1" Forward
7. Borgeson quick ratio steering box


Plans:
1. Short bed conversion
2. Wood bed floor
3. No-Limit fat bar
4. CPP modular drop spindles
5. Homemade big brake kit (14" front, 13" rear)
6. Vintage air
7. Porterbuilt hood hinges
8. 700R4 trans with 2400 stall converter
9. perfect panel fitment
10. All green exterior
11. Mar-k lower woodgrain trim only
12. 3.73 gear, locker
13. 3/5 or 4/6 drop. wherever it ends up


Anyway, here are some "before" pictures

[Moore87]

Now on to the disassembly and chop

12" behind the cab, 8" off the back. I have some inner frame reinforcements I have not welded in yet. Those will be going on next time i take the bed off.

[Moore87]

Next up was installing the No-Limit fatbar kit. I like the kit. Nice parts, good design. Ridetech coilovers.

I see some complaints online about the directions. Yes, they are a bit lacking but honestly if you are doing this type of kit and you need detailed instructions, you probably shouldnt be doing it. Install was straightforward.

[Moore87]

Installing the bed was straightforward. The Mar-K stuff is top notch. The made in Taiwan bedsides, not so much. had to work the mounting holes over everywhere. Some were off by 1/2" or so

Wheel tubs took ~3-4 hours to fit but they fit pretty good now (last pic). Bed wood has the stain and a couple coats of clear to protect it during the build. it will be removed and several more coats added and sanded prior to final install. Mar-k bedstrips are awesome as well

[raggedjim]

A great start. Are you keeping the same color green? Is it 505?

Good luck, Rg

[lolife99]

Great looking truck!
Subscribing to this one.

[Moore87]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

A great start. Are you keeping the same color green? Is it 505?

Good luck, Rg

Yes but I am ditching all the white. I believe it’s 506 green. Has metallic in it


Got the frame reinforcing plates in for the cut. Got them from summit. I think they are a CPP piece

[Moore87]

Confirmed on Friday that Boyd tanks made pre 2017 do no have the filler tube centered on the bed wood. Had to chop it off and re weld it. Good thing this is covered by the bed wood

Got some porterbuilt goodies as well. Frame crossmember and hood hinges

[Ol Blue K20]

I'm in to watch!

[Moore87]

Slow progress this weekend waiting on parts. Installed the Boyd filler. Also installed my cpp modular spindles with 1” drop springs. Hubs are machined down factory disk hubs. Rotor is a 350mm Durango rotor. Calipers are C6 aluminum corvette with a custom bracket I drew up and had laser cut

The purpose of doing the brake kit myself other than I enjoy it, was to run off the shelf unmodified wear parts. If I want to replace the rotor, caliper, pads etc I can buy them at the local parts store

[Racer2172]

Nice work already, as for cutting it down, like you said its your truck

[Moore87]

Little progress. Found some original doors locally at a great price. No rust through. One has a speaker hole to be fixed and the other has a dent but no big deal

Pulled the rear and finish welded the 4 link. Bent up some brake lines and mocked up my 2014 mustang brake calipers. Went to install the gears but ran into a snag with my parts. Awaiting replacements

[Moore87]

Painted the axle, installed 3.73 gears and a Yukon locker

Also finish welded everything in the rear and did the final assembly on the 4-link

[Moore87]

Found something interesting. This 1-2 threads on a loose bolt was all that was attaching my master cylinder rod to the pedal linkage

Also mocked up my new booster and master. Leed H8 booster with Wilwood 1” master cylinder.

Yanked the TH350 and installed my rebuilt 700r4 with 2400 converter. Need to wire the lockup

Started on tire fitmemt. Going to try a 295/45r18 all around.

Any thoughts on the zinc coating???? I’m tempted to leave it but almost looks like it needs to be painted black

[lunatic1968]

Nice truck, Following along

[Moore87]

Back on the ground. I need to replace cab mounts then shim the bed/body. It’s pretty close now but I want to get it better

Next steps:

Measure and order driveshaft
Finalize wheel backspacing and order wheels
Put the brakes on for the final time
Doors
PB hood hinges
Vintage air
Panel matching and gapping
100 other little things I’m forgetting
Paint

[Blue GMC]

Looks good and you have a great vision for the final product. Keep going can't wait to see it together!!! I will say this is kind of weird looking at a build thread with one as clean and shiny as your truck.

[Moore87]

Minor updates. Driveshaft on order. Single piece 4” aluminum.

Ordered wheels and they are here. My helper approves of my choice!

Took a few extras because ups decided to drop them on something. Decided on a billet specialties wheel in 20x10 rear, 20x8.5 front

255/45r20 front
295/40r20 rear

Brakes are on and torqued. Front suspension is back together for the final time

[Stickman]

Really like the idea that the boss approves the wheels I'm in to watch this one also and like the direction it's headed. Would you mind sharing the reason you chose not to notch your frame to facilitate the No limit Fatbar. I purchased one recently and I'm debating to notch or not and obviously this isn't you first rodeo so I would like to hear your thoughts. I just don't want to have to circle back and have to notch it later on and I like your ride height.

Thanks

Kirk

[Moore87]

Originally Posted by Stickman

Really like the idea that the boss approves the wheels I'm in to watch this one also and like the direction it's headed. Would you mind sharing the reason you chose not to notch your frame to facilitate the No limit Fatbar. I purchased one recently and I'm debating to notch or not and obviously this isn't you first rodeo so I would like to hear your thoughts. I just don't want to have to circle back and have to notch it later on and I like your ride height.

Thanks

Kirk

I read some comments from rob at no limit about it. When the axle tubes are touching the frame rails, the top of the center section of the rearend is above the frame rail. Only leaked like 1/2”-3/4” before it hits the bed wood. Basically no advantage to the notch unless you raise the bed floor

It’s a 5.25” travel coilover so I just set the ride height where I have ~2.75” between the frame and axle tube and called it good

[Stickman]

Thank you sir, much appreciated.

[Moore87]

Driveshaft is here. 4” aluminum. 1350 joints

Rear tires are here. Fronts are on covid delay but I’m told will be here next week

Exhaust, alignment and some misc bolts that need tightened and it will move under its own weight. Going on hold for about a month to work on another car then it’s into body work and paint

[Moore87]

Got the parking brake cables in. Used a universal Wilwood kit in the rear, lokar kit to connect that to the pedal

Also got started on the exhaust. 2.5” stainless steel builder kit from stainless works. Borla mufflers. Running under the axle. With the no limit kit, there’s just no room to go above. It’s pretty hidden

[Moore87]

Also used a stainless steel wire wheel on my bench grinder and gave the entire exhaust a brushed finish. Turned out nice.

Need 2 more v-band clamps to do the passenger side, then H pipe and I’ll be done with it

[lil hoodlum]

Loving the build so far! Clean shop and clean build.