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05-30-2021, 01:36 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Hyattsville, Maryland
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1972 window run channel
I’m sure this has been discussed several times. I need to replace my window run channels ( the ones that run up along the door frame and end at the vent window) Has anyone installed these recently, if so which brand did you go with and how was the fit?
Thanks in advance, Ray
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72 Cheyenne Super (Purchased new by my parents in August of 71) Black and White |
05-30-2021, 02:39 PM | #2 |
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Location: CA
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Re: 1972 window run channel
I installed Precision brand channels in my truck recently. The rear one that goes in the door frame is great. The one in the back of the vent window is too narrow in my opinion, so it fits loosely in the track. Also, the slot in it seems to be too deep because the front corner of the metal piece that the main window is attached to rubs on the channel. I had to file the corners round so they wouldn't snag on the channel.
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05-30-2021, 05:46 PM | #3 |
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Re: 1972 window run channel
Thanks for information. Did you have your glass out when you installed the run channels? I am just wondering if I can do it without removing the glass or not.
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72 Cheyenne Super (Purchased new by my parents in August of 71) Black and White |
05-30-2021, 06:00 PM | #4 |
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Re: 1972 window run channel
I did have my glass out of the door, and my vent window was out of the door too. It probably wouldn't be too difficult to replace the rear channel with the window in place, but it seems to me that it would be a big challenge to replace the front channel without removing the vent window. Removing the three screws from the rear track would allow you to move the window back a bit at least.
Last edited by pjmoreland; 05-30-2021 at 06:25 PM. |
05-30-2021, 09:04 PM | #5 |
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Re: 1972 window run channel
Thanks Pjmoreland. I think I will attempt just rear channels at this point. The vertical portion seem to be okay.
Thanks for input. Ray
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72 Cheyenne Super (Purchased new by my parents in August of 71) Black and White |
05-31-2021, 02:04 AM | #6 |
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Location: washington
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Re: 1972 window run channel
I would pull the wing window to do the front channel.
In the end you will wish you had pulled it if you don't. Removing it is easy enough. First pull the vertical channel, next to the door latch. It's three screws. Two under the door panel on the inside and one at the outside of the door just above the latch. Pull out the "U" shaped window felt then slip the channel down and out. Roll the window down and it will allows the window to move towards the latch, rear of the vehicle. Then undo the three Philips screws on the wing/vent window. These are located on the front of the door on the outside. Then remove the two bottom screws on the inside of the door under the door panel and the wing window will be loose and will come right out. Just turn it 90% as it clears the door so the bracket at the bottom will clear. If the door panel is off it only takes five min to remove once you figure it out and if you don't have to deal with rusty screws. With some luck you might get the rear channel replaced with out removing the wing/vent window. Specifically if the front channel is worn some. Pulling the old can be harder than one would think as they are typically hard and crack and break easily. Pushing it past the window will be the challenge. I would remove the lower channel. I have never done it this way but I suspect it would make the job much easier. Don't forget to put some type of NEVER-SEEZ or oil on the lower screws when you reinstall the door panel. Amazing how quickly these can rust in place. I just did both sides of mine and used Precision brand seals. They were above my expectations. Went in nicely. Another link on how it's done. Directly to the point with no marketing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zay64xBOgD8 Rick Last edited by Accelo; 05-31-2021 at 09:21 AM. |
05-31-2021, 09:01 AM | #7 |
Mr. Cheyenne
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 1,687
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Re: 1972 window run channel
this is a pretty good You Tube on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3wTuTY3HZM&t=502s and this one too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vueu...placementParts
If you have a nicely painted truck, you can't use enough blue tape. I learned this this hard way on my 1st door I did. Taking out the vent windows seems to find its way to just about everything to tap/scrape on! Slow, easy, and blue tape is the name of the game! Oh, don't forget to loosen/remove the screw that is just under the vent window on the inside door. Which seems to be a '72 door thing only. I didn't realize this and my the job was harder on the 1st window.
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Richard '72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim |
05-31-2021, 09:11 PM | #8 | |
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Re: 1972 window run channel
Quote:
Rich, I saw your posts about your window felt ordeal. The video makes it fairly straight forward but we know how that can go. An hour job turns into all day rather quickly LOL. Thanks guys.
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72 Cheyenne Super (Purchased new by my parents in August of 71) Black and White |
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05-31-2021, 10:14 PM | #9 |
Mr. Cheyenne
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
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Re: 1972 window run channel
yep and there's nothing like doing something a few times to get it right. In the end it was getting the rubber flap cut back correctly (9/16th I believe) and then getting that outside rubber belt shoved in between the vent and the door - which loosening that little screw help a LOT in my case. It all seems simple .... now.
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Richard '72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim |
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