Richmond 4+1 Amateur Install

[Phoax]

I'm a youngish(35) solo hot rodder and learn everything through trial and error or online research. I have to stop work and go buy tools often. My truck had a 3 speed and I wanted more gears. I bought this Richmond 4+1 pulled from an old Corvette a couple years ago on craigslist for $1100, with hurst shift linkage and yoke. I just got around to installing it and it was not easy. Getting the truck up high enough was an adventure but once I had the old transmission off I realized the Richmond had more splines so I needed a new clutch. So I stalled a new flywheel and pressure plate for good measure. So FYI you can't install the transmission with the bellhousing on on a 67 C10 due to crossmember. So I took it back apart and installed the bellhousing separate. Aligning the transmission through the bellhousing and throwout bearing solo is not easy either. I did many things in the wrong order and had to take things apart to access a bolt I needed on the next step. I also had to cut a new hole in the floor for the shifter and remove the transmission and re cut multiple times to get it right. Anyway working on these old trucks, esp mine, a frankentruck is always a puzzle. I put in a crossmember I ordered as well.

I was planning on posting a bunch of photos but am running to issues. These forums seem to only accept direct urls and the phone image hosting sites I'm trying are not giving me actual urls. Ug! I'll try again later. sry

[yuccales]

Looking forward to the pics! Good luck on the project.

[body bolt]

You can upload the pics as attachments. Select 'Go Advanced' and then 'manage attachments then 'upload'.

[Phoax]

I got some pics. And another thing. I used a harbor freight transmission jack, pictured, worked great once I figured it out. It tilts one way. I had the transmission on backwards for the tilt I needed, had to lower and flip around. Jacked up once again I realized there wasn't any room to run the ratchet strap so I had to do a round 3 with no strap. I also got deluxe Hurst shift stick and and a large boot which just barely covers the hole for the old shifter. The pilot bushing was quite a job as well. Tried multiple pullers and ended up succeeding with a harbor freight one sculpted with a grinder to work.

[dsy1]

Nice trans install, but your dash could use a haircut.

[Grumpy old man]

Use bread to remove pilot bearings , I know it sounds crazy but it works and it's fast .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PunIehO_ch0

[HO455]

Did you check the alignment of the bellhousing to the crank shaft? If your not familiar with this operation there is lots of information on the interweb on how to do it.
Good luck with your new gear box. They are nice units. Unfortunately Richmond no longer supports them with parts.

[Phoax]

Thanks for the replies. I hope to get my truck on the road this summer.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Use bread to remove pilot bearings , I know it sounds crazy but it works and it's fast .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PunIehO_ch0

Friend of mine told me about this, couldn’t believe how fast and easy it worked

[tj1970cst]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Use bread to remove pilot bearings , I know it sounds crazy but it works and it's fast .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PunIehO_ch0

Use to do the same with grease. Had a few that were so worn that it didn't work, grease would just squirt out. Bread looks better.

[burnin oil]

I always used the grease method also. Instead of a socket I use a bolt that is close with electrical tape wrapped around it for a snug fit. I have only run into a few problem child's that needed a little more grease added. Always worked for me.

[SCOTI]

The original trans crossmember/mount was intended for the lighter/smaller 3spds w/bellhousing of the time. The larger heavier 4spd's (& now 5 or 6spds) & auto transmissions would utilize a more traditional crossmember @ the rear of the transmission like you installed.

With the new x-member in place, the original one isn't needed & can be cut out/discarded to make future service work easier.

You can also make a patch piece for the original hole in the floor so that it covers the original hole w/about a 1" flange all around. Then open up a new smaller hole that works for the new set-up. That will help seal the floor up a little better. Fumes, noise, & external weather have a way of slipping past that style rubber boot when they barely cover the floor opening.