1967 Chevy C20 truck starter HELP!!!!!

[CSchmidt]

I've had this truck for 3 years going on 4. Motor is a 350 an with a turbo 400 transmission. Four core radiator with no issue. Oil change last week. I have just started having starter issues.

Just recently put a new starter with heat shield. Brand new battery cables and terminal posts. Wirers loomed and brand new. Battery has been tested and maintained and is in great shape.

My issue is if I drive somewhere and I was in and out and had to start my truck again it won't start until the temperature went down below 160 degrees. I have a electronic fan that goes on at 180 degrees wondering if that was drawing power away. So when I start it it clicks. So I wait and once the electronic fan turns off the engine cranks over and I'm on my way. I even tried unplugging the fan seeing if that was taking power away from battery/starter and no it's not.

I know starters on these trucks over heat or have starting problems. I'm going to pull the motor and fix a much needed oil leak.

If anyone has had the same issues please inform me on what you did to fix the situation I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance
Chris

[Getter-Done]

Do you still have the junction block on the right side fender.?

Are the terminals loose there?

Check your all your grounds.









.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by CSchmidt

I've had this truck for 3 years going on 4. Motor is a 350 an with a turbo 400 transmission. Four core radiator with no issue. Oil change last week. I have just started having starter issues.

Just recently put a new starter with heat shield. Brand new battery cables and terminal posts. Wirers loomed and brand new. Battery has been tested and maintained and is in great shape.

My issue is if I drive somewhere and I was in and out and had to start my truck again it won't start until the temperature went down below 160 degrees. I have a electronic fan that goes on at 180 degrees wondering if that was drawing power away. So when I start it it clicks. So I wait and once the electronic fan turns off the engine cranks over and I'm on my way. I even tried unplugging the fan seeing if that was taking power away from battery/starter and no it's not.

I know starters on these trucks over heat or have starting problems. I'm going to pull the motor and fix a much needed oil leak.

If anyone has had the same issues please inform me on what you did to fix the situation I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance
Chris

I have had two different problems related to starting. One was starter/solenoid heat soak which occured after driving short distances. Same basic symptoms as you. I cured it by installing a mini starter.

Second was no start after driving for 1/2 hour or more and shutting the engine off. Fuel was boiling in the carb float bowl. Cured it by installing a 5/8 or 3/4" phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold.

LockDoc

[CSchmidt]

Everything is brand new and changed out on the hunction block.

[BigBird05]

Is the starter "brand new" or rebuilt? The field coils wear out in starters and if the rebuilder doesn't replace then with a new part then you get a starter that will heat soak and not start when hot.

[72c20customcamper]

Is the "new" starter a rebuild? In my experience they are all junk . I ended up buying new and it ended my problems.

[CSchmidt]

Yes its a new 1 year warranty starter

[54blackhornet]

DB Electric offers a mini starter that works great. Sounds like **** but I just tell myself I’m in a Roadrunner...

[CSchmidt]

Will fixing the oil leak help me out with the heating problem?

[BigBird05]

Are you running headers or stock exhust. Headers add to starter heat soak.

[BigBird05]

If the starter is clicking then that sounds like the solenoid is at fault.

[CSchmidt]

Headers and a heat shield on starter.


When I turn the key it doesn't really click. It's like it's dead but the lights and everything works like normal. Volt gauge goes down when I turn the key.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

DB Electric offers a mini starter that works great. Sounds like **** but I just tell myself I’m in a Roadrunner...

I'll bring over a pound of coffee beans for you to grind.

OP- make sure all your connections from the battery to the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and solenoid are clean and tight. What does the fuse block look like? Is there any rust on it? Maybe pop it apart and clean it up. The problem is likely compounded of weak connections throughout the entire wire run, which add up. I even got a longer battery cable and bolted it directly to the starter, trying to chase this problem down.

[54blackhornet]

Appreciate the offer ! Every time I start it I cringe but smile afterwards.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

DB Electric offers a mini starter that works great. Sounds like **** but I just tell myself I’m in a Roadrunner...

I have one in my 72 and in my 66 Chevelle . 72 was giving me a problem but found it was a bad connection . But neither of them make noise and they are the mini super torque models


They are slightly louder than stock but not much

[mgore68]

I had starter problems too. I changed both of mine over to the newer style small high torque for the newer 350 ( maybe the 80's models) motor, also one on my 454. Major thing with that is get new bolts with the narled neck that is for these starters, Trust me. That may be why you are getting a horrible noise on the one above. Mine sounded like it was gonna break the fly wheel with the old slick bolts..

[custom10nut]

Put a Thermal Blanket around the Starter motor. It may not be “Factory”, but I haven’t had the “ Hot Start” issue since I wrapped mine

[68panelman]

Originally Posted by custom10nut

Put a Thermal Blanket around the Starter motor. It may not be “Factory”, but I haven’t had the “ Hot Start” issue since I wrapped mine

That's good news to hear, I ordered two actually for my truck,
They are 7x24" and I'm hoping to wrap the headers also where they all come together next to the starter, should be long enough. On of these days I'll go back to manifolds, 2.5" that is..