Opinions on distributor question.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Hey everyone, I'll get right to it. I have a Davis Unified Ignition performance distributor in my 72 c10. This thing is awesome and completely worth the money (my opinion). Well, I've had it in the truck for about 8 months and I've noticed that the flyweights are starting to eat into the pin shafts that they ride on. I asked the company if this was covered under the 1 year warranty. They said yes it is, to my surprise. The down side is that I have to pull it and send it back east to them on my dime so they can replace the mainshaft. I'm assuming it would take at least 2 weeks for turn around time. OR I can take matters into my own hands and remove the flyweights and drill them out large enough to accept a plastic bushing that fits around the pins and call it good. I just picked up a cobalt drill bit specifically for drilling hardened steel. I've measured the plastic bushings and made sure it would work. I might have to ream out the bushing slightly to get it to fit the pin, but that's no issue to me. Any thoughts?

[pjmoreland]

I don't have any experience with this issue, but based on your description I'd be worried about being this exact same situation eight months from now if you send it back to them. Did they say if this type of wear is typical? I'm curious mainly because I was considering getting one of these distributors.

[Mike_The_Grad]

I hear ya pj, I'm assuming its typical. I've gone through at least 4 distributors in the last 7 years because of this issue. Mostly because I was using those cheap $100 overseas billet ones. I decided on the d.u.i. because it is custom tuned for your particular setup. I will admit it wasnt a flawless drop in. I was having pinging at my cruise rpm on the highway. I contacted them and let them know, they sent me a new set of springs for the distributor. They are pretty good about handling their customer service. I must say that this is the longest I've had a cap and rotor last as long as they have. I was interested in their use of nylon screws to hold down the rotor to prevent arcing. It seemed to work, until I broke them. Now I'm back to the typical metal screws. My fault not theirs. They do use a modified module and coil. All in all I am happy with the purchase and their customer service. The more information you can give them about your setup the better they can tune a distributor for you. Its run awesome since I've gotten it. But I've recently notice some timing related issues, which is why I'm where I'm at. I asked them how to prevent this from happening but they didnt give a suggestion. So that's why I'm thinking of taking matters into my own hands. The bushings last a very long time from past experience.

[kwmech]

I think what ever you do on your own would void any warranty left over. Personally I would let them do their thing so it would be correct and back on their hands

[gmc684x4]

I have usually went and dug my new old one out of a square body and run gm hei units i learned the cheap one suck and my new mallory one I have not tried yet still in a box for the last several years

[Steeveedee]

Do you have an old points distributor and the other parts to drop in while that distributor is out? If not, I have one out of my truck that you can borrow, complete with plug wires. I don't have a coil, and if you took the yellow wire out of the harness, it might be more trouble than it's worth. You're not all that far from me.

[HO455]

I recommend doing as Steeveedee said.
The reason the holes failed to maintain their size is the lack of, or improper heat treating of the weights and pins. Plastic bushings would eventually fail to. However properly sized oilite bushings would work but would also require one drop of oil every now and again.
Every time the engine changes RPM those weights move (Below the RPM where they are fully against the stops. Generally 2500 to 3500 RPM.)

[firedemon]

i would send it back and see what they do seems from what you have experienced so far they may have a fix for this problem in mind . even if they dont now that you are aware of the flaw you will have the new parts in it and hopefully can keep it lubed so it dont do it again or atleast keep it at bay longer

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I have never had an aftermarket dist. but have worked on hundreds of factory units. I put a pinch of grease on those pivots when I service one & never have excess wear. If it was me I would go with your plan. They have kits for that purpace. Those weights are hard steel like you mentioned.
George

[Mike_The_Grad]

I appreciate all you guys. I went ahead and did the modification myself. They are hardened steel weights for sure. I bought a cobalt bit to drill through each flyweight. But the bit wouldnt even touch them. Used plenty of cutting oil and tried various speeds and slight force. This was with my brushless Milwaukee m18 drill. I ended up using a dremel with a tapered green stone to do most of the rough cutting. I needed to enlarge the hole in the flyweight from .189 to .250. The dremel had no problem doing the work. I finished with a good chainsaw round file and deburred the holes with a very sharp brand new tapered reamer. The plastic bushings went right in and on the pivots of the distributor no problem. One was slightly dragging so I reamed it with a small sharp drill bit by hand. No more slop, weights snap back when the rotor is realased. And now my timing is rock solid. At least until the plastic bushings wear away. I did sand the pivots with some 600 and 1500 Emery cloth to smooth them out. Everything cleaned with electronic cleaner. I then wiped the weights down with a rag that had wd40 on it. Seemed to work just fine. I'm gonna pop the cap and rotor back off today and check how everything is looking and moving. Maintenance day today. Clean up distributor, clean up the carb, re seal 2 intake manifold bolts that are weeping oil, break out the vacuum gauge and timing light and dial in both the carb and the distributor. Wish me luck and hope that I dont find any other things that will make this take any longer than it should.