Set up to tow

[the idiocracy]

Currently running a 67 C10 with a longbed. What chassis and suspension mods would I have to do to set the truck up to tow a 5th wheel?

[72c20customcamper]

Would greatly depend on the trailer . They make some real lightweight ones now. An older average size under 30 ft would be a little big for a 10 . It's not just the suspension it's also the frame .

[the idiocracy]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Would greatly depend on the trailer . They make some real lightweight ones now. An older average size under 30 ft would be a little big for a 10 . It's not just the suspension it's also the frame .

Thats kinda the detail I am trying to figure out. Aside from brakes and trailer brake control and heavier springs, what frame chamges would you think need to happen?

[body bolt]

With my '71 350/350 I sometimes tow a 4000lb 23' Silver Streak and I wouldn't want to haul anything larger. The half-tons are really lightweight trucks, I call them Impalas with beds.If anything on your '67 I'd improve the brakes and everything else as necessary: springs, shocks and add anti-roll bars if none exist.

[kwmech]

Leaf or coil rears? 6 ply tires are a must at the minimum

[the idiocracy]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Would greatly depend on the trailer . They make some real lightweight ones now. An older average size under 30 ft would be a little big for a 10 . It's not just the suspension it's also the frame .

Originally Posted by kwmech

Leaf or coil rears? 6 ply tires are a must at the minimum

Coils. Im thinking this might not be the truck to do this with. Thanks for the input guys.

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by the idiocracy

Coils. Im thinking this might not be the truck to do this with. Thanks for the input guys.

I was thinking the same but didn't want to burst your bubble. We didn't even get into engine size, transmission or gear ratios

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by the idiocracy

Thats kinda the detail I am trying to figure out. Aside from brakes and trailer brake control and heavier springs, what frame chamges would you think need to happen?

The frames on the 20 and up series trucks are physically larger/taller and more stout to better be able to handle the added weight and stress.

[HO455]

Don't forget how much stuff you can put in a trailer, it adds up quickly. Watch The Long Long Trailer for an entertaining example.
https://www.amazon.com/Long-Trailer-.../dp/B006PJCTUY

On half ton axles the axle shaft provides power to the wheel and it supports the weight of the truck too. This the reason you see old Ford trucks alongside the road with a rear wheel broken off. A 9 inch ford weakness. A 12 bolt axle's bearing will fail but generally the wheel won't leave the truck due to the C-clip.
On 3/4 ton and larger axles the weight of the truck is supported independently of the axle shaft. Thus the axle shaft only has to deal with stress from the axle twisting. The 3/4 ton bearings have at least twice as surface area to carry the weight.

[May70]

Clarification note on the frames. Its not really a totally different frame... I did a lot of digging a few years ago looking for parts for my c20 so im recalling from memory.. Ive also had about 10 frames here from 10s and 20s.

10/20 frame rails are the exact same. Axles and spindles/hubs are different (I think control arms are different too cant remember), obviously because now you are in the 8 lug category. Either could have leaf's or trailing arms. Rear cab mounts are lower on the frame rail for larger padding on the 20/30s. All the other mounting locations are the exact same. Sheet metal is the exact same, cabs 10-30 are the same. Bracing and cross members are identical excluding options obviously between 10-20s.

Im pretty certain 30s were also the same frame rails, with the same rated setup up front as the 20s and like two-three options in the rear if that for axles. I've seen 30s with single rears or duals but im not super knowledgeable on the 30s.

Above 30's the frame changed.

So in other words, to achieve the gvwr of the 20s you can 'bolt on' their factory equipment to achieve that or you can upgrade to aftermarket to supersede that #.

Legalities involved from state-state (more of an enforcement standpoint). The plate is king in most places. Not sure about getting an updated plate legit or not.

I assume the above mentioned is where they come up with the difference in gvwr's. There are some much more seasoned folks here that have had many 10-30s that could tell us. Grumpy/special k/leon come to mind.

Your biggest issues are trans and brakes. Go and stop, safely. Obviously if you need to greatly exceed your current gvwr you need to slow the roll. My grandfather would do it every time he used his trucks but that doesnt mean it was safe or right. He was a preacher and e/m engineer though so it must have been in good faith hah

[kwmech]

30 series frame are entirely different. Thicker over all and taller from the front shock back depending on GVW ratings. Look at a longhorn frame. They are a standard 1 ton frame used also for the 3/4 longhorn. A little thicker and taller. My 1 ton flatbed frame is even bigger than that

[61_FL_Apache]

Later model 1/2 tons can handle some of that, but older ones, I would pass on it.