Dana 60 rear disc conversion issues

I'm getting hung up on this, I have some runout on the rotors (6 thou on one , 10 on the other). I used dorman studs #610-188 so the knurled part would be long enough to press through to the hub flange.

I used some thin shims in the rotor holes to help center the rotor with the hub because there's nothing else to center the rotor. How do people deal with this?
Maybe the runout isn't enough to cause vibration. Without shims the runout could probably be up to 50 thou.

Having second thoughts about this conversion so I have an ad up for some drum backing plates, mine were trashed.

Thanks,
Jeff

1971 GMC 3/4 ton

[usernamessuck]

I can't imagine your wheels are anywhere near that close and they have way more influence over the balance. Then there's the tires...

Originally Posted by usernamessuck

I can't imagine your wheels are anywhere near that close and they have way more influence over the balance. Then there's the tires...

For sure, I was wondering if it would be enough to make a difference

[60case]

put them on a brake lathe and true them up

[kwmech]

I wouldn't worry about the runout in that direction, especially if it is only 10 thou.

[bob arrington]

if you are actually checking that runout, wouldnt you be better off to check it at the point closest to where your lugs go thru? and I agree with the others. non issue

[bowtie72]

Your splitting hairs. You will never notice it.

Okay thanks guys, I won't worry about it.

[bob arrington]

on another note, they make studs with 'knurled' bases for lack of a better word, long enough that you wont need the spacers, thats possibly where your non issue runout is coming from and I'd bet real money thats where your wheel falling off the truck will come from...as youre driving down the road.

Originally Posted by bob arrington

on another note, they make studs with 'knurled' bases for lack of a better word, long enough that you wont need the spacers, thats possibly where your non issue runout is coming from and I'd bet real money thats where your wheel falling off the truck will come from...as youre driving down the road.

The studs I used are pressed tight in the hub flange, but they're loose in the rotor holes. They're dorman 610-188
They have about a 1" round head that should hopefully prevent the wheel from coming off...I think I'm unclear on what you mean there.

I did check the runout closer to where the lugs are , the rotors themselves appear to be true.

Old and new studs for comparison

[bob arrington]

I tried to make some spacers to fix a wheel and brake drum on a hub that had got loose and hogged out due to years of sitting and not being tightened when used. There wasn't any movement when I ran the lug nuts down with my air impact and even after I double checked them prior to leaving on a trip that I needed to make and didn't have time to wait for parts. About a hundred miles in , my right side dually wheels started vibrating and before I could get off the road to see what was going on, they passed me. The new lug nuts fit the hub fine but the small movement caused by driving down the road broke all of them off. they were still nice and tight in the axle hub. yours are behind the hub, may work...or may not. A company called lugnutz 4x4 does the same thing you're trying to do and also sells any of the parts for their kits. Might call them and find out what they use and possibly sell. hope this helps

Originally Posted by bob arrington

I tried to make some spacers to fix a wheel and brake drum on a hub that had got loose and hogged out due to years of sitting and not being tightened when used. There wasn't any movement when I ran the lug nuts down with my air impact and even after I double checked them prior to leaving on a trip that I needed to make and didn't have time to wait for parts. About a hundred miles in , my right side dually wheels started vibrating and before I could get off the road to see what was going on, they passed me. The new lug nuts fit the hub fine but the small movement caused by driving down the road broke all of them off. they were still nice and tight in the axle hub. yours are behind the hub, may work...or may not. A company called lugnutz 4x4 does the same thing you're trying to do and also sells any of the parts for their kits. Might call them and find out what they use and possibly sell. hope this helps

Thanks Bob, I see where you're coming from... there are forces happening that I probably don't understand. I've looked at a lot of the conversion kits out there, but I did put my own kit together. The kits mostly seem to use the same parts I have, and they don't include lug bolts, which I don't really understand. Using the original bolts wasn't an option for me

[bob arrington]

I have a 3/4 ton also and a dana and have done some research to do what you are doing
hope this helps
https://lugnut4x4.com/
there are others that cost more, but these folks say they will help with either complete kits or pieces, hope this helps

Thanks Bob. I see lugnut4x4 does mention and stock longer bolts.
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[bob arrington]

I had a conversation with a Shawn Miller at lugnutz. For the dana , they recommend stock lug bolts and the fact the you need spacers to make the rotors fit tight suggests that you need different rotors. hope his helps

Originally Posted by bob arrington

I had a conversation with a Shawn Miller at lugnutz. For the dana , they recommend stock lug bolts and the fact the you need spacers to make the rotors fit tight suggests that you need different rotors. hope his helps

We may be talking about two different things.. ? Not spacers, but shims wrapped around the bolts only where they pass through the rotors, to make the hub and rotor more concentric.

The knurled area on the stock bolts wasn't long enough to engage properly with the hub, in my opinion.