First timer ordering from LMC need patch panel help

[theomajigga]

Here is my Drivers Side which I believe PN 38-7940 will repair:
https://imgur.com/zaGMSgY
https://imgur.com/pbXMWXa

Here is my rocker side which I believe a rocker and inner rocker panel will repair:
https://imgur.com/3rT0hQ8

Just want to make sure I'm on the right track. 1971 K5

[theomajigga]

Passenger side floor which I think just a piece of 16g bent into shape will repair front feels really solid still:
https://imgur.com/EvgLejR
https://imgur.com/dxjgkW6

Passenger side rocker, which I think just a rocker will repair:
https://imgur.com/RCiM4wX

Thank you for the help!

[lks dcvn]

Welcome to the 1969-72 Blazer/Jimmy world!

Get some more pix of the truck so we can see what you are working with. Many on this forum have been down the 'rust repair' process of these trucks over the years and can tell you that the rust you can see - is only the start.

There are a few steps to do before you get too far into cutting/fixing things.

Is the factory top on and bolted down? If not, do that first.
How are the body mounts and bolts? If shot/rusty, do that second.
How do the doors open/close at the bedside? If they stick, fix that next.
How are the door hinges? Loose, door dropping, fix that next.

Now...you are ready to start the rust repair stuff as, if you completed all of the prior steps, now have your truck very close to the factory specs to rust repair.

I'm guessing from the pix you posted there are rust concerns for the following areas once you start digging in (structural items are marked with a *):

• floors on both sides*
• a-pillar on both sides*
• kick panel on both sides*
• floor mounts on both sides*
• rear floor supports on both sides (B-pillar - under floor)*
• outer floor on both sides*
• inner rocker on both sides*
• outer rocker on both sides
• B-pillar on both sides
• B-pillar support to bedsides on both sides
• lower bedside on both sides
• *maybe on rear torsion box end caps on both sides
• *maybe on torsion boxes on both sides

I used Key Parts to fix almost all of these areas over the past year and I purchased almost all of the parts from Jeg's (which offers free shipping on most parts except doors/hoods) - so you save a ton of money there if you don't have a place local to you to get replacement sheet metal.

As noted, post up some more pix as we can provide more information as needed. Here is a before/after on the one I just fixed up (still working on panel gaps).

[lks dcvn]

How the truck is now - all new metal - can actually say - no rust on this one. Also - you will end up waiting (sometimes months) for replacement parts to arrive - so take that into consideration.

I waited about 9 months to get torsion boxes delivered after ordering.

[1moretruck]

I would suggest not ordering patch panels from LMC, they tend to sell lower quality parts. try to find ones from Key parts usually stamped by Tri plus. as stated above Jegs is a good choice to get free shipping.

[theomajigga]

Hey all, thanks for the heads up.

I don't have the top near me, so I was going to brace it with some 2x4s and work on one side at a time.

I took off the passenger side rocker, and of course the B pillar is mostly junk too. Floor on the passenger side is not too bad, and the foot well needs a small patch on the bottom.

How hard is it to get to the footwell metal? Does the rockerbox need to come off? Trying to do as little work as I can now, drive it for a little and then go bigger with it.

How is the metal classics industries stamps?

[lks dcvn]

Putting the top on is the preferred method to add more integrity to the body - although others have done it without a top.

It may be good to measure and reference the door opening gaps to see how close you are. Attached picture has been around on the forum and provides the measurements on a nearly rust free Blazer from user VTblazer.

The torsion (rocker) boxes are the LAST thing I replace as they are the key piece of the body that prevents the truck from folding in half with the top off (and doors from binding up depending how much rust the truck has).

If they are even remotely solid - I would keep them on as long as possible. They do not need to be removed to replace the body mounts, a-pillar, b-pillar, kick panels, or even inner/outer rocker.

I replaced all of the sheet metal on my truck with the old torsion boxes on and then replaced them last as they had rust holes in them under the cab mounts. Doing it this way enabled me to fix all the structural rust with the torsion (rocker) boxes in place and then weld in new solid metal to assure the repairs I made were all dressed from below and the new metal would hold the shape of the rig with all the correct measurements, alignment in place.

Good luck on your repair journey!

[theomajigga]

Sweet, this is super helpful. My torsion boxes are in tip top condition. I ordered all my steel from classic industries, hope they are decent enough. I'm going to be working on the 2wd swap, and lowering it. Yes I know, blasphemy, but it's just the look I love, and unless someone wants to trade a 2wd for my 4x4 as is, it's my only choice.

Thanks again all. Maybe I'll start a build post. But it's going to be nothing crazy.

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

Putting the top on is the preferred method to add more integrity to the body - although others have done it without a top.

It may be good to measure and reference the door opening gaps to see how close you are. Attached picture has been around on the forum and provides the measurements on a nearly rust free Blazer from user VTblazer.

The torsion (rocker) boxes are the LAST thing I replace as they are the key piece of the body that prevents the truck from folding in half with the top off (and doors from binding up depending how much rust the truck has).

If they are even remotely solid - I would keep them on as long as possible. They do not need to be removed to replace the body mounts, a-pillar, b-pillar, kick panels, or even inner/outer rocker.

I replaced all of the sheet metal on my truck with the old torsion boxes on and then replaced them last as they had rust holes in them under the cab mounts. Doing it this way enabled me to fix all the structural rust with the torsion (rocker) boxes in place and then weld in new solid metal to assure the repairs I made were all dressed from below and the new metal would hold the shape of the rig with all the correct measurements, alignment in place.

Good luck on your repair journey!