Cutting Hole for Front Coilovers without Torch/Plasma

[cjohnson6772]

As the title says, what alternatives have people used to make the clearance hole required for front coilovers without access to a plasma or torch? I consider a hole saw from the bottom? Any other ideas?

[SIXTY9]

See if this makes since to you. I took a piece of 3/4" ply wood and a 4" hole saw and cut out two pieces. I then took the two pieces and bolted them thru the middle with a 5/16" bolt, center of the area where it needs cut out and tightened it up. Next remove the arbor from the hole saw and slowly use the pieces you bolted together as the guide. Go slow and use cutting fluid. If you need more info PM me your # and I can explain better.

[custom10nut]

Please don’t take this as a SA question, because I’m genuinely curious.
Am I missing something here?
Is your truck bagged and lowered?
Why is there any cutting that needs to be done?
I put Gabriel Coilovers on all corners of my stock height 70 C-10, and love the way they improved the ride.

[FRCvette]

Following. I am needing this info also. I plan on installing QA1 front and rear coil susp on my truck and they require cutting the holes for shocks.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by custom10nut

Please don’t take this as a SA question, because I’m genuinely curious.
Am I missing something here?
Is your truck bagged and lowered?
Why is there any cutting that needs to be done?
I put Gabriel Coilovers on all corners of my stock height 70 C-10, and love the way they improved the ride.

The QA1 and Ridetech coilover conversions require the top of the spring pocket to be cut out in order for the top of the coilover to be mounted to a supplied bracket. These are different type of coilover than the Gabriel shocks you installed.

[Joyridin]

I am not sure of the thickness, but I just cut some 3/16" steel, which was about the thickness of the frame, with my Ryobi Jigsaw. I bought some 14 TPI blades at Menards and it cut through the steel like butter. I actually cut out a circle about 4" in diameter.

If not that, then maybe a Sawzall? Then take a die grinder and smooth out the rough edges to make it look cleaner.

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

I am not sure of the thickness, but I just cut some 3/16" steel, which was about the thickness of the frame, with my Ryobi Jigsaw. I bought some 14 TPI blades at Menards and it cut through the steel like butter. I actually cut out a circle about 4" in diameter.

If not that, then maybe a Sawzall? Then take a die grinder and smooth out the rough edges to make it look cleaner.

I wondered about a jigsaw, but I'm afraid that there won't be enough room to manipulate the saw from the top and blades would be too short from the bottom. Maybe a Sawzall from the bottom. Maybe. But then I worry that the blades will be too wide to turn the corner so to speak.

I may try out the jig saw with some good blades though. That or a hole saw seems easiest.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

I wondered about a jigsaw, but I'm afraid that there won't be enough room to manipulate the saw from the top and blades would be too short from the bottom. Maybe a Sawzall from the bottom. Maybe. But then I worry that the blades will be too wide to turn the corner so to speak.

I may try out the jig saw with some good blades though. That or a hole saw seems easiest.

You most likely wouldn't. The hole saw is the way to go. Slow & steady. Have some cutting fluid handy to drip/spray in the groove as you go. It helps keep the teeth cool enough to not over temper & dull.

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You most likely wouldn't. The hole saw is the way to go. Slow & steady. Have some cutting fluid handy to drip/spray in the groove as you go. It helps keep the teeth cool enough to not over temper & dull.

That is good to know. Honestly the hole saw is my preferred approach if it will work. Best access with be from the bottom of the crossmember correct?

[HO455]

Using a jig like SIXTY9 said will work to keep the hole accurate. I would buy a new good quality hole saw if I was going to cut the holes this way. Most of larger hole saws found in big box stores are only rated for wood and sheetrock. Use lots of cutting fluid and keep the speed down.
It's not going to be fun job.

[SkidmoreGarage]

I used a plasma, but I wanted to suggest that you remove as much of the fender as you can to make the job easier. Also, I wouldn't be afraid to use a cut off wheel. The hole you need is large enough to use a flap wheel to clean up the cut. Once it's done, you will never see it again. I would use a jig saw with metal cutting blades over a hole saw.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

FYI. Once the holes are cut you may have to grind and or smooth down a high spot that sometimes is left over so the new bracket sets flush. It a kinda weird areas to cut so just be aware to make sure your new bracket sets flush. Plasma is definitely the way to go if you have access to one, if not take you time with the Jig saw, sounds like the best way to me

[SIXTY9]

I used a bi-metal hole saw from the box store. If you can have someone putting the cutting fluid on while you are doing it and use a 1/2" drill on slow speed. I cut my holes from the top.

[3767]

I used the bracket from the kit as my template. It has to sit flush and the hole n the bracket gives a good starting point. On the crossmember, the top where the original spring sat, u have a “hump” . That has to b cut out for the bracket to sit flush. He bracket bolts to the frame so line up the holes and make a mark from that. I just used a small grinding wheel I had and switched to a bigger 1 when I got the hole cut out to finish it up with.

[gt40racing]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

As the title says, what alternatives have people used to make the clearance hole required for front coilovers without access to a plasma or torch? I consider a hole saw from the bottom? Any other ideas?

I did it this weekend with 4.5 Bi-metal hole saw... took about 12 minutes on each side.... ran across the area with a file just to make sure it was clean...