Need help with power steering

[FL71C10]

I am having problems with the power steering in my 71 C10. I have an LT1 motor (1995 impala ss motor) and I am using the pump that came on that with engine. The power steering box is a new one that I put on about 8 years ago.(Cardone part from advance auto &#128556 It has never been hooked up until now. I made custom lines using high pressure braided stainless hose on the pressure side, and regular braided stainless line on the return. I put the system together, filled it with fluid and jacked up the front of the truck and went lock the lock 20 times to prime it and the steering seemed fine. I put the belt on and started the motor, and the ps pump started smoking after a few minutes.

I went ahead and got a new ps pump and swapped it out, and the pump started squealing. I got a little bit of assist on the steering before the belt started squealing. The hoses are hot coming out of the power steering box.

I am attaching a picture of the connections on the box. The fitting on the right, closer to the steering column is the return line. I think I have that right.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Not sure if I should get a new steering box. Hate to just keep replacing parts.

Thanks for any suggestions you can offer.

[RustyPile]

I didn't do a lengthy search for your gear box part #, but I couldn't find a listing for it. Power steering installation was discussed recently on another thread.. Part numbers, used vs. reman, along with recommendations were covered.. Read post #9 in this thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=828312

[dennislbrooks]

The squealing slipping belts combined with the very hot hoses with not be able to easily crank the wheel sounds familiar.

There is a check valve in the pressure port of the power steering gear. If the check valve is damaged or incorrectly put in upon the rebuild it can severely restrict the flow.

I had this problem on my 59 4wd. The hoses and pump got so hot you could not touch them. I removed the check valve and problem solved.

However the check valve has a function of reducing steering kickback should you hard hit something like a curb with one tire.

Get another power steering gear or remove the check valve. It is less than a quarter inch diameter circle. You can see it if you remove the pressure hose and in your case the AN fitting also.

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

The squealing slipping belts combined with the very hot hoses with not be able to easily crank the wheel sounds familiar.

There is a check valve in the pressure port of the power steering gear. If the check valve is damaged or incorrectly put in upon the rebuild it can severely restrict the flow.

I had this problem on my 59 4wd. The hoses and pump got so hot you could not touch them. I removed the check valve and problem solved.

However the check valve has a function of reducing steering kickback should you hard hit something like a curb with one tire.

Get another power steering gear or remove the check valve. It is less than a quarter inch diameter circle. You can see it if you remove the pressure hose.

Hmm, so it sounds like the box. If I take that out and it works, I know the box is the culprit?

[dennislbrooks]

I would say you have a restriction of some sort. If you remove it and all is well, you probably cannot reuse it but drive it until you feel like replacing the whole box as I do not know where to get that little bugger.

Make sure you have no other probable restrictions. You have most likely eliminated the pump as the culprit and also maybe the lines.

Did you have any problem or a different feel when you installed the pressure hose fitting into the steering gear port?

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

I would say you have a restriction of some sort. If you remove it and all is well, you probably cannot reuse it but drive it until you feel like replacing the whole box as I do not know where to get that little bugger.

Make sure you have no other probable restrictions. You have most likely eliminated the pump as the culprit and also maybe the lines.

Did you have any problem or a different feel when you installed the pressure hose fitting into the steering gear port?

I guess maybe I should take the hose off at the box and at the pump and make sure air blows through it.

[dennislbrooks]

Also take out the AN fitting and look at the check valve. Should be the line closest to you in the picture for the pressure port.

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

Also take out the AN fitting and look at the check valve. Should be the line closest to you in the picture for the pressure port.

The line closest to the outside of the truck is the pressure port?

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by FL71C10

The line closest to the outside of the truck is the pressure port?

No, that's backwards.. The port closest to the engine is the pressure (gear inlet) port. The port furthest from the engine is the return (gear outlet) port..

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

No, that's backwards.. The port closest to the engine is the pressure (gear inlet) port. The port furthest from the engine is the return (gear outlet) port..

That's how I have it. The one with the blue fitting is the pressure line

[dennislbrooks]

My bad. Take both fittings out and look for obstructions.

[Davidf]

If you decide to replace the box, go with a new Borgeson…you will not be disappointed. You will also need a 77+ square body coupler (rag joint).

[RichardJ]

when I first read this thread, my first thoughts were also that the lines were mixed. Your LT1 engine PS pump uses a remote reservoir. Your return line goes from the gear box to a PS cooler if used, to the reservoir and then to the bottom of the PS pump?

>>lock the lock 20 times to prime it<< That 20 number sounds like it's out of the Flaming River page.

I had to replace the Rack on my '87 L98 and I think it uses the same PS pump as your LT1. C4 steering Racks are unobtainable. You have to rebuild your Rack.

I gave my rack to NAPA. NAPA sent it to Cardone and they farmed it out to someone , somewhere back East. When Cardone returned it to NAPA, it had Cardone tags and specific instructions regarding installation and guarantee.

You are not priming a PS by cranking lock-to-lock, you are attempting to remove the air.

Cardone's instructions are that you must BLEED the system of all air before even starting the engine.
Use a hand vacuum pump with a suitable size cup and suck the air out with of the reservoir.
It works.
It removes all the air from the pump and rack and when you start the engine, it is completely quiet and ready to go.
Air in the PS system can cause a lot of initial wear and foaming of the PS fluid.

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

when I first read this thread, my first thoughts were also that the lines were mixed. Your LT1 engine PS pump uses a remote reservoir. Your return line goes from the gear box to a PS cooler if used, to the reservoir and then to the bottom of the PS pump?

>>lock the lock 20 times to prime it<< That 20 number sounds like it's out of the Flaming River page.

I had to replace the Rack on my '87 L98 and I think it uses the same PS pump as your LT1. C4 steering Racks are unobtainable. You have to rebuild your Rack.

I gave my rack to NAPA. NAPA sent it to Cardone and they farmed it out to someone , somewhere back East. When Cardone returned it to NAPA, it had Cardone tags and specific instructions regarding installation and guarantee.

You are not priming a PS by cranking lock-to-lock, you are attempting to remove the air.

Cardone's instructions are that you must BLEED the system of all air before even starting the engine.
Use a hand vacuum pump with a suitable size cup and suck the air out with of the reservoir.
It works.
It removes all the air from the pump and rack and when you start the engine, it is completely quiet and ready to go.
Air in the PS system can cause a lot of initial wear and foaming of the PS fluid.

Mine is a recirculating ball system. Not sure how to bleed a reservoir that only 3/4 full of fluid. Do I put the vacuum pump on the hose going to the pump, or to the steering box?

Here is a pic of the new pump.

[RichardJ]

Just take the reservoir cap off and apply the vacuum to the reservoir. All the hand vacuum pumps I've seem come with a bunch of accessories with a wide cup that may or not be large enough to fit you reservoir.
Mityvac sells adapters specifically for this purpose, but they are spendy fot such limited use.
I've extended the size of my cup by using a piece of flat rubber with a hole in the middle. Just hold it all in place over the reservoir for about 10-15 seconds to give the air time to travel.

[FL71C10]

Okay, so I got a new power steering box and I am getting ready to put it in. There is this vinyl cap on the end where the rag joint goes. I'm not sure if that is supposed to stay there or am I supposed to take that off?

Here are a couple of pics

[dennislbrooks]

Mine does not have that dust cap nor do I see it on Rock auto. But if your rag joint coupler fastens ok with it on, I would leave it in place.

[FL71C10]

Well I finally got it all fixed! I was able to swap out the old ps box that I put on it in April 2010, and got a new one under warranty. I also replaced the Pitman arm and the rag joint just because they looked a little bit tired. The new rag joint did not have a ground wire on it like the old one. I took the one off the old one and soldered it to the new one. Looks like it will hold. Not sure how crucial that ground is but if GM spent that extra $. 30 back in 1971, they must have felt like it was worthwhile.

Thanks everyone for your tips!

Here's some pics because we like pics

[RustyPile]

Loo-kin-good... I've been busy with family visitors since Thursday and haven't been on the computer much until now, so I missed your posts yesterday. I'd say leave that "dust cover" in place if the rag joint fits with it there. It'll help shield the seal area from dust and debris.