Brake Line kit

[kev2809]

was wandering if I could get some feedback. I replaced all my lines a while back, close to 8 years ago? well I disassembled my front end to paint and the front lines were already corroded at the fittings so I cut them off. I unscrewed the fitting from under the firewall, but everything forward was cut and is no good. so I'm looking to obviously replace those.

my question is this. the truck is 67. front pads and rotors are 73. prop valve is 72 I'm guessing. rear brakes should be stock (replaced new about 8 yrs ago). should I just buy a roll of the 5/16 tube and bend and flare it to fit my front setup?

option 2 would be to buy this kit from Inline Tube - SCTB67S3. I'm unsure if it will fit, not only that it's the entire kit. I contacted them and they said its the only kit they carry for a 67 suburban with disc fronts and drum rears.

so, would you guys bite the bullet on the whole kit and hope it fits...or buy pre rolled tube and make your own? I sure could use some cash for my fuel lines but if I have to get an entire brake line kit I will. I'm wanting to wrap up the fuel and brake lines before dropping the drive train in...so much more room to work with.

here's the link the inline tube kit - https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...rake-line-kits

[HO455]

I replaced my by buying copper-nickle tubing and bending my own. I wouldn't do it any other way. Like you my Burban is a bit bastardized. 71/72 front spindles and the rear axle is the same. Do a search for brake line woes. There's plenty of them out there. Why buy tubing your going to have to rebend?

If you run make your own hard lines you can then use the correct 1973 front hoses and run the new hard brake lines to where the 1973 brake lines went. The1967 hard lines end in a different location on the frame and you may have to do some real searching to get hoses that work.
I wish I had known this before I did mine. It would have been much easier to attach new brackets and run the tubing to them rather than searching for hoses to work. I did get some hoses to work but the arrangement of them could be better.

I don't know of any vendors that make hard line sets for vehicles with mix and matched components.

I have a local hydraulic hose shop that sells the copper-nickle tubing by the foot so I was able to match the factory tubing sizes and not have a bunch of left over tubing.
Hope this helps.

[kev2809]

good point, I already have the 73 hoses too. when I did these the 1st time I believe I bent my own lines but I did not do all of them.

did you try to bend them like factory or just to suit your needs?

[LockDoc]

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I second the NiCopp brake line. You can bend it by hand and it doesn't rust.
That is all I use for brake and fuel lines.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39217689151...EAAOSwv-NfKZQM

There are all different sizes of it.....

LockDoc

[kev2809]

nice I think I will try this and just replace them all. I'm guessing I will need a 3/16" roll and a 1/4" roll?

[kev2809]

found this one on there with fittings and the coil spring like the stock ones have

[HO455]

Originally Posted by kev2809

good point, I already have the 73 hoses too. when I did these the 1st time I believe I bent my own lines but I did not do all of them.

did you try to bend them like factory or just to suit your needs?

For the most part I bent them like the factory did.

If you're interested here is a link to the brake line work I did. Scroll to post 194 to start.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...=698377&page=8

That looks like a good deal on the tubing.

[LockDoc]

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I agree. looks like a good deal. The coated fittings will resist rusting too.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

amazing what previous owners rig up lol. I will order the lines today. what are you guys thinking on how many feet of each? I think a 25' roll of the 1/4" is plenty since it seems to only be the front....but I'm not sure 25' of 3/16" would be enough ?

[HO455]

I think I did the line to the rear with 25 feet but maybe I had 30 feet. I do remember getting a tape measure and getting a rough idea how much I needed. The 1/4 line will also be used on the rear axle. I had to get new 1/4 to 3/16 reducer fittings for 71/72 rear hose tee fitting as the old ones had rounded hexes .

[kev2809]

went ahead and ordered this kit. comes with fittings too. hope it will be enough. will probably get the tee fittings local

I'm going to browse through Amazon for a decent flare tool

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

went ahead and ordered this kit. comes with fittings too. hope it will be enough. will probably get the tee fittings local

I'm going to browse through Amazon for a decent flare tool

This stuff flares so easy you can actually flare it with an old style flaring tool holding it in your hands. Not kidding....

LockDoc

[pwdcougar]

The nickel copper stuff is the way to go. I got a coil and bent my own. The rear line is one piece from the rear all the way to the distribution block. It was tricky bending the lines that go from the block to the master cylinder. They are some pretty tight bends.

Paul

[kev2809]

looks good. wondering if I should do it after the motor is in to make sure it clears everything?

[HO455]

Tough choice. I do brake lines from time to time for a local bodyshop and it always seems I get the call after the engine is in place. It takes much longer to do it then.
Perfect world I like to start by running the lines on front to the front brake calipers and the line for the rear brakes and leaving the ends long with no engine or front clip installed. Then after the engine and transmission and front clip are installed do the rest.

I like Imperial tubing tools. Quality tools, but not too expensive. Having a bender that will do 180 degree bends is nice.