Window fitment in aftermarket door

[Oldironracing]

Where to start! I have new Woodall doors with precision rubber parts and new glass. The problem is the glass will not roll up far enough to seal. Have new window regulator to. The door run felts look to be to wide and don’t touch both sides of the glass in the places that the glass does touch. The metal channel that is glued to the bottom of the glass try’s to come out the top of the door between the rubber and fuzzy at top of door and the glass likes a 1/4 inch before sealing. So any help would be appreciated. O and the truck is all new paint.

[Richard]

Th window frame can be massaged a bit. Obviously preferable to do before paint. If was where you are I would maybe wrap rear of window frame with towel. Put a 2x4 block on it and hammer a bit with a small sledge? Only other thing I could think of is to take glass out and have edge sanded down. But that is going to be a guess how much and where. As far as window felts being a poor fit. I suggest to order a new set from one of the long time forum vendors. They typically stock stuff that they use and works. Though I use Classic parts a lot as products seem good and shipping is easier on the wallet.

[Oldironracing]

Originally Posted by Richard

Th window frame can be massaged a bit. Obviously preferable to do before paint. If was where you are I would maybe wrap rear of window frame with towel. Put a 2x4 block on it and hammer a bit with a small sledge? Only other thing I could think of is to take glass out and have edge sanded down. But that is going to be a guess how much and where. As far as window felts being a poor fit. I suggest to order a new set from one of the long time forum vendors. They typically stock stuff that they use and works. Though I use Classic parts a lot as products seem good and shipping is easier on the wallet.

Not sure that grinding would help. The window don’t need to be any shorter. If it was longer buy a 1/4 inch would help. Yes the new glass is the same size as old.

[Peanut74]

Based on what you are saying is the metal channel in the correct position on the glass? If memory serves me correctly the back edge of the channel should 3/4" from the end of the glass. Since you say the glass is the same size as the old. You also might want to make sure that you didn't delete a felt or something in the metal track. Look at the other doors window and look there to see.

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by Oldironracing

Where to start! I have new Woodall doors with precision rubber parts and new glass. The problem is the glass will not roll up far enough to seal. Have new window regulator to. The door run felts look to be to wide and don’t touch both sides of the glass in the places that the glass does touch. The metal channel that is glued to the bottom of the glass try’s to come out the top of the door between the rubber and fuzzy at top of door and the glass likes a 1/4 inch before sealing. So any help would be appreciated. O and the truck is all new paint.

Post a couple of pics please.

[Richard]

Somehow, I gathered that the side glass was being pinched by vent window track and back of door frame not allowing to go all the way up. FWIW my power window regulators allow the side window channel to show about 3/16"-1/4" when fully rolled up. Cannot remember what it was like with stock regulators. I am using stock glass and channel.
From what I have heard aftermarket glass is thinner than original. Window rubber, felts, etc. are all made to the factory glass. Have heard problems with front/rear glass leaking because of this. Never even thought about side glass.

[Oldironracing]

Will get pictures tonight

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by Richard

Somehow, I gathered that the side glass was being pinched by vent window track and back of door frame not allowing to go all the way up. FWIW my power window regulators allow the side window channel to show about 3/16"-1/4" when fully rolled up. Cannot remember what it was like with stock regulators. I am using stock glass and channel.
From what I have heard aftermarket glass is thinner than original. Window rubber, felts, etc. are all made to the factory glass. Have heard problems with front/rear glass leaking because of this. Never even thought about side glass.

On my 72 blazer with the window all the way up the sash shows about a quarter inch proud also. It’s pretty cold here but I can take a picture later if you are interested.

[Peanut74]

Oldironracing, Did you ever figure out your issue and get it resolved?

It appears that I am running into the same issue as you. Here is what I know from my situation:
-- The new glass is the same size as the old glass
-- Profiles of the old and new window gaskets are the same
-- The window regulator arm does push the window all the way up with no gaskets in place
-- Window channels are mounted in the same locations as on the old glass.
--With the window all the way up with no gaskets you can see about a 1/4" of the sash above the door frame
--Ran the window up and down with the window gasket in place and it sealed just fine
--Put in the window anti rattle felt and wiper and the window won't close all the way

So I am thinking that the felts are keeping the sash from going up enough to window in place. Thoughts?

[Sheepdip]

My son had the same problem when he did his 70 a few years ago. We took dry graphite and saturated the channels and felts and got the windows to roll up and down and seat properly. A little cleanup to follow, but not a big deal.

I knew to use graphite because in the mid 80's when I did my 72 I had the same problem. After a few ups and downs, road shakes, etc it all settled in and was normal again.

[rockyrivermark]

I’ve never hear anything good about aftermarket door fitment.
In Ohio a good oem donor door runs around $400. So worth it

[Peanut74]

Thanks Sheepdip. I will try the dry graphite. I converted mine to the DIY electric windows. They go down with no issues but going up I have to assist by pushing up on the arm. I think once the gaskets set I should be fine. Just need to figure out why they won't go all the away up.

Here are some pics:
-old window gasket vs new
-new window on top of old window
-sash on new window vs location on old window

The last pic shows the gap at the top of the window

[Accelo]

Try installing the window without connecting the regulator. That way you can determine if the issue in the regulator or the window/weatherstripping related. A lot of variables here. This should help break it down to one issue or another.

[Peanut74]

I'm working on the driver window now. This one is a non OEM door so will be able to see if that helps or not. I will be able to.see if it runs all the way up without the felt installed.

On the passenger window I ran it up as far as I could get it. I will leave it up for a few days to see I the felt relaxes some or not. Hopefully it works.

[A1971Blazer]

I realize this thread is over a year old but was there ever a solution to the issue?

I'm having the same problem with my '67 build with aftermarket doors.

I installed all new components including new vent windows and all new rubber along with A1 power regulators.

I assembled it all and the window stopped just short of going into the run channel at the top rear of the glass when it goes up.
I removed the felt run channel and discovered the glass was binding against the metal at the lower back part of the window frame.

I suspected the aftermarket vent window so I removed it and compared it to a factory one...exactly the same....
but I rebuilt a factory one with new rubber and I installed it just to see....same thing.

I contacted a local glass company to see if it would be possible to remove about 1/16" from the edge of the glass...he said if it was laminated I could but if it was tempered, which it is, that it couldn't be done. The glass would shatter.

I am getting really good and fast at door glass assembly...LOL... but...
At this point I'm not sure how to fix the issue?
Perhaps try to hammer the frame back slightly in that area?
it only need about 1/16" or less...just the thickness of the bottom of the felt channel.

Ideas or suggestions?

you can see (barely) in this picture where the glass is contacting the metal, that's with the glass all the way against the top of the window frame without the felt in place.
about 5-6" above the top of the door....above there it's fine.

[68 C10 Driver]

I cannot get over the difference between the original window seal and the new. Really, how hard is it to take the old seal and produce one that is the same? Why is this so hard? I am going to be shopping for new window seals this coming year and I don't want to have to jury rig something just so the windows can go up and down without problems.