Cheap crappy slammed 68 blown ls/tr6060

[cornfed]

I have had a few people ask about this old thing so figured I would share. I bought it from the og private owner that drove it for the county and bought it from them. Unfortunately he moved to the coast in the 80s and the climate had its way with it. Yeah its rusty and crusty, past the point of worth fixing. But for some reason I though it had a cool look and it was cheap as hell. Great..
I'm a cheap bastard with my own projects so this one is definitely out of the norm for what you'll normally see. Good or bad? Whatever, read on and make a decision lol.
I wanted to run a wide wheel up front and out back. So a 70s jaguar gave up its frontend to put ol crusty back on the road. Out back its everything from a 90 something explorer. Yep, everything. Springs, axles, swaybar....all the goods.
Some kid gave up on his drift car so I scored a set of 20x9.5 and 20x11.5 wheels i figured would work and the price was right.

[cornfed]

The first thing I did was box the frame front to back. I have a lowered 64 f100 and I hate the wet noodle feel on our country roads. A buddy had the step notch he didn't use so I shortened it up some and slapped it in.

[cornfed]

Rear suspension was almost like cheating. I found an explorer with a 3.73 limited slip rear and just pulled the bolts from the springs and shackles and dropped it and rolled it out with the tires on still and onto my trailer. Then just rolled it under the 68 and bolted it in
Almost. The frame is basically the right width at the front of the leafs so I just drilled a hole and built a double shear mount outside the spring. In the back I pulled the shackle hangers off and narrowed and shortened them and welded em back on. Couple mounts for the shocks and swaybar and bam, done. I never even pulled the axle from the springs until I pulled everything apart for paint.

[cornfed]

I knocked the factory crossmember out because it bothered me being crooked. And knocked some dimple died holes in it too. I helped a buddies kid ls swap his 68 stepside and ended up with his blazer tank because he isn't a cheap ass like me and bought a boyd tank. Awesome, they are crooked in the front like the crossmember.....oh well I can live with it for the price. I made a couple flanges for the walbro pump and welded it in. Originally
I plumbed it up with a corvette regulator. When I decided to run the supercharger I had to run another line all the way up front for the regulator so I swapped it for an aeromotive filter. Anodized of course because I can't leave stuff alone.
Guess I didn't get any pictures of the pump setup so here's another one I did with a stock tank. Same idea. Except I wasn't worried about blowing up when I welded mine in the new tank..
Built a skid plate for it since I figured it would be fairly low. And of course more holes because it would be visible so it had to look fast.

[cheby267]

That is so cool ! I love it ! Can not wait to see more details and Pics . I'm doing a 72 and having to color within the lines , would love to be able to let my hair down like this ! Got a 76 Cheyenne waiting in the wings and taking notes with this build .

[dnd1978]

Step side or no side! I’m in for the build.

[sfont66]

This truck is so cool! Really dig the look. Keep the updates coming, I’m following along.

[Warrens69GMC]

Following as well.

[cornfed]

The reason I went with the jag frontend because it was cheap. But also it gave the truck rack and pinion steering and disc's. And the narrow track width for a wider tires. Its cheap too, $250 bucks if I remember right. 4 big bolts, brake lines, and steering shaft and it drops out of the car as a complete assembly. I wanted the truck low so I went for it and just welded it directly to the bottom of the frame. Its pretty low for a static truck. The only tricky thing is the steering shaft. The rack is a rear steer setup and with how far up I mounted the suspension its tight between the shaft and the manifold. I chopped the back of the manifold off and used some shaped 304 with a v band. I cut the truck pan off and took 1.25" off it and welded a new plate on the bottom made out of .250 aluminum. Also built a skidplate because I smack the one in my f100 all the time. They are actually amazingly durable for aluminum. I have looked in the mirror a few times expecting a snail trail of oil.

[cornfed]

Couple more pics underneath. I tried to keep it high and tight with nothing hanging below the frame.
The yoke setup on the tr6060 calls for a 2 piece driveline. That actually worked out great since I probably would have had to cut a hole in one of the only spots in the cab without a hole for the driveline with a 1 piece. Since I'm cheap I didn't buy the sonnax yoke for a couple hundred bucks, oh no.. I cut a flange that bolts to the factory flange. Then got a 1350 weld yoke for building a driveline. Welded that to the flange I made and done! I just used a 1350 carrier bearing and made a mount to the shaved crossmember.