still aways to go

[ocbaud]

Hedman Elite shortie headers (1 5/8" , 3")
harmonic balancer
flexplate
Harland sharp Roller rocker-arms
electric fans
water pump(electric or mechanical???)
fuel pump(electric or mechanical???)
holley 750cfm carb vac. secondaries(3310)
MSD street probillet distributor
msd blaster2 coil
msd 6al ignition
New starter
new alternator
new torque conveter(if i can find one)
tranny cooler


all the stuff i still will need to purchase, after i get the shortblock done. although i do need to get the balancer and flexplate before its done so that he can balance it.

[r0lf-]

750 might be a tad too much, but I dont know with 400+ HP.

[Tom]

Originally posted by ocbaud
Hedman Elite shortie headers (1 5/8" , 3")

Why 3" collectors? A 350cid motor needs 2.5" collectors and exaust.

water pump(electric or mechanical???)

Daily drive = mechanical. Street/strip, not alot of miles = electrical

fuel pump(electric or mechanical???)

Electric. I don't use mechanicals anymore after my exsperiences with them.

holley 750cfm carb vac. secondaries(3310)

I hate vaccum secondary carbs, good luck!

MSD street probillet distributor
msd blaster2 coil
msd 6al ignition

Thats a massive overkill if I've ever seen it. Why a new distributor AND the box and coil? Save your money and keep the same performance and use the GM distributor. Just get the super HEI kit that gives you the 6al box and blaster 2 coil for a little over $200.

new torque conveter(if i can find one)

You can't find one? There everywhere you look!

[gldevall]

Why a new starter and alternator? Your old ones should work. I would also second the electric fuel pump. Run the Holley red pump and you should be fine.
Tom, on the converter, he has the TH350 TC with the lock up on it.

[Tom]

Originally posted by gldevall
Why a new starter and alternator? Your old ones should work. I would also second the electric fuel pump. Run the Holley red pump and you should be fine.
Tom, on the converter, he has the TH350 TC with the lock up on it.

Ahhhh that makes more sence

[79Silv4x4]

Originally posted by ocbaud
new torque conveter(if i can find one)
tranny cooler

TCI offers both the Saturday Night Special and Super Streetfighter converters for the TH350C.

[Izzy]

Might try Phoenix Transmissions in Weatherford, TX. They do tons of stree/strip TC's and build them all in house.
http://www.phoenixtrans.com/

[bigblock73]

Man you guys, there are cars that run 9's..on mechanical fuel pumps (although not "stock" ones)...there is no need to run an electric one. They take more work to install (plumbing and wiring), and if it fails...you have to try and find another...whereas any mayor parts store will have a mechanical on the shelf. Not only that, but Holley elec pumps suck! They are noisey and tend to chew themsleves up on a regular basis. If you are determined to run an elec pump, get a aeromotive, mallory, or a good name brand pump. On the water pump, mechanical for sure...electric pumps are typically for racing applications.

Eric, don't mean to offend you by this, just simply going by my personal experiences. All the stuff on your list will add up quickly and cost a good amount of money. If you are anxious to get the truck running and driving again, buy only the stuff you really need at the moment...and upgrade to the expensive stuff later. Do you really need a new starter, distributor, alternator, etc...? Lack of money can kill a project and ruin motivation to finish it.

Either way, good luck, and keep us posted.

[Tom]

Originally posted by bigblock73
Man you guys, there are cars that run 9's..on mechanical fuel pumps (although not "stock" ones)...there is no need to run an electric one. They take more work to install (plumbing and wiring), and if it fails...you have to try and find another...whereas any mayor parts store will have a mechanical on the shelf. Not only that, but Holley elec pumps suck! They are noisey and tend to chew themsleves up on a regular basis.

Sure mechanical pumps will work, but they suck. They are a complete pain in the arse to install [a electric only takes two bolts, and one power and one ground wire] and they break, alot. At least they did on me. I went threw 2 stock and 2 holley mechanical pumps within 3 months one year, after that I went electric and never looked back. Have a holley red on the 78 and a carter street on the 79. I will give you the fact they are very noisey though.

[bigblock73]

Originally posted by Tom


Sure mechanical pumps will work, but they suck. They are a complete pain in the arse to install [a electric only takes two bolts, and one power and one ground wire] and they break, alot. At least they did on me. I went threw 2 stock and 2 holley mechanical pumps within 3 months one year, after that I went electric and never looked back. Have a holley red on the 78 and a carter street on the 79. I will give you the fact they are very noisey though.

A mechanical is a breeze to install...and there is only two bolts as well. Now there is a plate that bolts under the pump, but to replace a pump you only need to remove two bolts (the ones that hold the pump to the block). Not only that, but Eric already has fuel lines there...he could install it in his sleep! If he chose to run an electric one, he would need to run new lines since elec pumps need to be mounted as close to the tank as possible, not to mention they need to be gravity fed so he will have to figure that out too (where to mount it, and if it will work with his tank). I have NEVER broken a mechanical pump...and I put alot of miles on my vehicles.

[87 Shortwide]

Water pump, Mechanical for sure, electric ones cant handle daily use and you DONT want that thing to quit working one day while you are driving.

Fuel pump, I would go mechanical. I have a mechanical on my truck and an electric on my wagon and the electric one is an annoying pain in the ass. If your gonna drive it alot, mechanical.

I WOULD dump the cash on all MSD ignition including the dist.
Every motor that I have built with MSD stuff has been a whole lot easier to initially start and tune. MSD on a brand new motor will start within 2-3 cranks for me usually. I will live and die by their products.

I would also step down to a 650 carb. The only smallblock I have played with that needed a bigger carb then that was our impala, however the 355 in it was putting out near 500 hp. You shouldnt need that much.

Other than that you list looks good, the tranny cooler is a must, plus you dont have to deal with the ugly tranny lines from the radiator back.


Just my .02

[ocbaud]

Originally posted by 79Silv4x4


TCI offers both the Saturday Night Special and Super Streetfighter converters for the TH350C.

the saturday night special :
1,600-1,800 rpm stall speed with a small block


and the superstreet fighter is:
3,400-3,600 rpm stall speed with a small block


anything inbetween?

[AirMale]

1. Get a mechanical fuel pump (140gph). I run a Carter 170gph on my 550cu with 650hp. Electric pumps blow! Holley electric pumps blow! I've had both and mechanical pumps don't fail.
2. Get an mech. aluminum waterpump. Keep it simple!
3. Stay with a 750 vacuum sec. If your gonna go for the 425hp or more it's perfect! I liked the edelbrock 750 on my 383/450hp, it ran a tad rich but that's fine.
4. Get the MSD Pro-billet HEI and your done. No box needed. Keep it simple!
5. Get a converter that stalls between 2500-2800. This will let you cruise with your truck and not heat up the converter. I put in a big B&M trans cooler right in front of the radiator (passenger side) with 2 pieces of 1" alumnum across the opening, looks factory!
6. The Hedman Elites are a nice choice. And yes 1 5/8" and 3" is perfect. You will love em!
7. If you still have money- Go with the 1 wire 140amp Powermaster alternator and eliminate all the extra wires in the harness. Should still be on Mikes old website. Jeff's 73-87.com. I also went with Powermaster's mini-starter that has adjustable mounting holes and I'm totally satisfied

[79Silv4x4]

Originally posted by ocbaud


the saturday night special :
1,600-1,800 rpm stall speed with a small block


and the superstreet fighter is:
3,400-3,600 rpm stall speed with a small block


anything inbetween?

2300-2500 RPM

Part number PP3530 $175

I can't say anything about the quality because I have never used them.

[Cole's 87]

I'm curious about the full roller rockers the more moving parts the easier something can mess up. What lift does the cam you plan on running.
I have Comp Cams magnum roller tip rockers on a cam with a .564 lift and havent the first problem and they were alot cheeper too.

The electric pump aint nothing but a pain in the a$$. I finally got rid of my Holley Red cus it sounded like a pissed off coffiee grinder under my truck. Got the Holley 110 series and I carry 5-7psi all the way 6000rpms

If there is one thing I have learned is KEEP IT SIMPLE so you can spend more time behind the wheel instead up under the hood. Just wished I had all the money I have blown on OVERKILL

[ocbaud]

cam specs:

Intake valve gross lift/duration: .490"/290°
Exhaust valve gross lift/duration: .490"/297°
Intake valve duration @ .050": 235°
Exhaust valve duration @ .050": 240°
Rocker arm ratio: 1.5
Intake valve lobe centerline: 107°
Lobe separation: 112°

[ocbaud]

Originally posted by 79Silv4x4


2300-2500 RPM

Part number PP3530 $175

I can't say anything about the quality because I have never used them.

thanks, i'll have to lookup on that.

kinda weary on it though, considering the price

[allthrtl]

I'm with Jeff, keep it simple... scratch the elec fuel pump.....I don't think there is an easier mech fuel pump to install than a SB Chevy, got 5 minutes?? With this being a daily driver, I would really be careful about getting to radical, you'll hate it, trust me, where you going to get parts on a Sunday afternoon so you can get to work/school monday morning??.... Personally, I like MSD ignitions, but do your homework.....I've spent alot of years building hot rod Harley's (concept is no different than this) and ignition systems is where I saw the most money wasted....The air/fuel mixture is only going to burn SO fast no matter how much juice you put to it. The key is finding the correct ignition curve, keep it simple...

Just my opinion, probably the same as many others, I would run away from anything that said TCI or B&M...Take the money you'll save on the water pump, fuel pump, ignition, alternator and starter and buy a GOOD converter, Hughes Performance, they aren't cheap but they are worth it....get the tranny cooler, you already need it....

Carb, I would probably stick with a 650 dbl pumper, 750 seems a little overkill for a 350ci engine, I guess this is debatable....

Some other things that may seem small but are going to add up and always sneak up on you....

4 core radiator or at least a professional cleaning-I wouldn't want that old crap running thru my new motor...
motor mounts-tranny mount-now is the time for new ones
10qts of engine oil and 2 filters-initial start up and break-in
new hoses and belts-nows the time
new tranny filter and oil to go with new TC and cooler
distilled water and anti freeze
How old are you battery cables?? pvc, fuel hoses, etc etc etc......

Maybe I'm a little anal, but if I have everything out and apart, NOW is the time to replace it, not right after I get it all back to gether and it breaks....

Have fun, new motors are always alot of work, but alot of fun in the end....I'm exited for ya and it's not even mine...

[ocbaud]

Originally posted by allthrtl


Maybe I'm a little anal, but if I have everything out and apart, NOW is the time to replace it, not right after I get it all back to gether and it breaks....

would a 3500 stall be to much? i think so

anyways, i'm the same way, i'm gonna be replacing all those small parts. radiator is gonna be flushed good, and the hoses and the tranny/motor mounts are gonna be replaced also

[Tom]

Hughes could build you a nice 2500 stall convertor if you ask them nice I know them well from my dealings with getting a built tranny made for honda v6's.

[allthrtl]

I agree with Tom, 2500 would be about right....it won't be cheap, especially with the lock up, but it'll be a good TC....


Oh yeah, I think this is finally my 100th post....has taken awhile, I guess I should post more......mostly just lurk....

[79Silv4x4]

Art Carr offers them as well.

[TIMSPEED]

If you're a 700R4, then I would suggest a Yank Torque Converter. I have a Yank in my vette, stalls to 2600, and it's very streetable.

[RodKnockin]

Originally posted by ocbaud


would a 3500 stall be to much? i think so

anyways, i'm the same way, i'm gonna be replacing all those small parts. radiator is gonna be flushed good, and the hoses and the tranny/motor mounts are gonna be replaced also

Just my .02 but as far as stall is concerned, depending on who you ask, is entirely up to your cam. When you look at the powerband, you should be 700 to 1000 RPM into the powerband when your stall kicks in. Thats where the power is. If you don't match up your torque converter your defeating the purpose.

For instance stock motors Idle around 500 to 550 RPM, the torque converter stalls at around 800 or so. since stock cams build power off idle, your 300 or so RPM into the powerband when it stalls. the more radical the cam the further the gap needs to be, but for street driving driving I would never go for more that really 900 RPM over, unless your going to drag race every weekend.

I don't know the specs, but unless your cam is really radical. It probably starts to build power at 1500 RPM. So a 2300 to 2500 stall is what you would need. Even at that pulling out on a hill during daily driving you will have to torque your motor up that high just to normally drive.

Have planned out your intake it also should match your cams powerband for the best combination.

but like I said just my .02

[ocbaud]

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...K/300-503.html

thats the kit i have. the intake, heads, and cam all match up great together(or so they say). they also RECOMMEND a 3000 stall with my tranny.

Originally posted by RodKnockin


Just my .02 but as far as stall is concerned, depending on who you ask, is entirely up to your cam. When you look at the powerband, you should be 700 to 1000 RPM into the powerband when your stall kicks in. Thats where the power is. If you don't match up your torque converter your defeating the purpose.

For instance stock motors Idle around 500 to 550 RPM, the torque converter stalls at around 800 or so. since stock cams build power off idle, your 300 or so RPM into the powerband when it stalls. the more radical the cam the further the gap needs to be, but for street driving driving I would never go for more that really 900 RPM over, unless your going to drag race every weekend.

I don't know the specs, but unless your cam is really radical. It probably starts to build power at 1500 RPM. So a 2300 to 2500 stall is what you would need. Even at that pulling out on a hill during daily driving you will have to torque your motor up that high just to normally drive.

Have planned out your intake it also should match your cams powerband for the best combination.

but like I said just my .02