1951 Crosley Sport -- how?

[dennislbrooks]

The rear axles on a Crosley are a tapered key shaft with a castle nut and cotter key. The rear drum is also the hub that is female taper.

Do I treat this like a wheel bearing?? Tighten it to snug, maybe backoff for a slot to put the cotter key thru. Or do you always go tighter to get the cotter key thru?

These cast iron tapered drum/hubs are precious. You do not want to crack one. The key is put in after the hub is placed on the tapered axle pushed in just far enough to start the castle nut which finishes pushing the key in to tight.

[Getter-Done]

Pictures would help.
Is yours set up with one tapered bearing on each axle?
I will tell what I learn about taper axle shafts.
My 1952 8N Ford rear axle are tapered splines if it pertains to your situation.

[dennislbrooks]

The diff is for a 39 Crosley but is similar except the drum/hubs on a 51 have no slots. Crosleys are 1939 to 1952 made by the washing machine refrigerator company in Cincinnati.

The axle is from a 48 jeep but is the same.

There are no splines, just one square key. I think the axle bearing has no role in putting drum/hub on this tapered axle.

This car has only 25hp.

[Getter-Done]

What hold the axles in the rear end?
Are they held by plates on the backing plate?

[dennislbrooks]

Yes and the bearing on the axle is not a taper bearing.

[Getter-Done]

I would say you have it right.
Treat this like a wheel bearing.

The plates that bolt to the backing plate will need to be shimmed,
So that left and right axle has minimum clearance in between them.
If to much the axles will (walk around) slide back and forth.
If not enough clearance the bearing plates will not be seated to the backing plate.

Does it only have 1 bearing?

[dennislbrooks]

Each axle has an outside bearing like a chevy 12 bolt.

[Getter-Done]

Does it have C-clips on the end of the axles?

[dennislbrooks]

I do not know. Here are 2 actual pics but you cannot see if a c-clip or other. It appears to me that the seal retainer may be what holds the bearing and axle in place. The bearing slides on from the splined end and may be a press fit against a machined shoulder on the outside of the axle before the taper.

I just read that the brake backing plates have to be removed to pull axle out.

[Getter-Done]

Do you have a Motor manuel?

Here's an e bay link to one of them I found.
There is a few more I found.

I don't know how much info would be in there?

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12508119019...3ABFBMtuCTgMxf

[dennislbrooks]

Thanks, I bought the 14th edition and it did list Crosley.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by dennislbrooks

The rear axles on a Crosley are a tapered key shaft with a castle nut and cotter key. The rear drum is also the hub that is female taper.

Do I treat this like a wheel bearing?? Tighten it to snug, maybe backoff for a slot to put the cotter key thru. Or do you always go tighter to get the cotter key thru?

These cast iron tapered drum/hubs are precious. You do not want to crack one. The key is put in after the hub is placed on the tapered axle pushed in just far enough to start the castle nut which finishes pushing the key in to tight.

Only talking here from my experience with old Ford and Chrysler tapered axles, but no, do not back off the axle nut. It must be very tight or the hub will slip on the taper and eventually it will destroy the hub, axle, or both. A loose hub was a problem on Fords and Chryslers but might not be as much of a problem with a less powerful car like a Crosley. The hubs can be trouble to get off without the right puller, but don't whack the end of the axle shaft with a hammer thinking that might loosen it up. The puller for tapered axle hubs was fairly expensive so many at home repairs were attempted without one. I have heard old guys say that you could loosen the axle nut and drive the car and you could make it come loose like that, but that is obviously not recommended. .

[dennislbrooks]

I will let all know when I get the Motors if it tells. As far as removing the hubs and knowing of consequences:

1) Removed cotter key and axle nut.
2) Shot hub/taper with liquid wrench
3) Next day used blue flame on hub near taper
4) Used a 3/4" thick strap across castle nut on axle left a little over 1/16" gap between nut and hub using 1/2" fine thread bolts across 2 opposite lug threads -- they are 4 lug
5) Slowly somewhat evenly tighten bolts -- need some tension
6) If needed give strap a light tap but was not needed. Both sides acted the same.
7) Do not gorilla anything. Use more liquid wrench and blue flame.

As I understand most of these hubs crack because of the incorrect installation of the square key on the taper then tightening.

Since they are 1/4" keyed I used never seize on the tapers to reinstall.