12-29-2003, 07:25 PM | #1 |
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Parking Brake Problem
Ongoing problem---changed my drums brakes on the rear last year and every since the emergency brake hasn't worked on my 71 lwb fleetside. I've worked on it forever it seems and the only thing I can figure is that when I changed the brakes, the system got slack somewhere from the equalizer up to the inside of the cab. Everything else back seems to work great. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it?
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12-29-2003, 09:29 PM | #2 |
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Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
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are the cables hanging loose under the truck?????
there are adjustments that can be made to tighten them..... let the tighting begain...... |
12-29-2003, 09:41 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
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My e-brake doesn't work, either. I think it is the front cable, but haven't checked it in the 4 years I've owned it. Always managed to park on the level, and I really trust that my park detent ain't gonna slip out of place, like the Ford trucks have become notorious for doing.
I was reading an old, i.e. ca early 70's street rod magazine. The author was discussing an easy anti-theft device for a street rod that would be hard to find. What he was using was a Mico brake lock. He said they're used on fork lift trucks, for instance. I went on line and found they're still in business. Basically, it is nothing more than a line-lock type of device. You press on your brake pedal hard enough that the vehicle won't move. Then, you flip the switch. One side of the device is grounded. When you apply voltage to the lock, it holds the brakes in the "on" position, i.e., the shoes don't retract. You could put the switch in an out of the way location, for anti-theft purposes, as well as having it function as your parking brake. Since these trucks have a dual-braking circuit, you could put it on either end. But, normally, we'd use the rear brake circuit. To use it, you'd have to cut and double-flare the lines, then insert the lock. After bleeding and topping off the master cylinder, it should be no problem to find a 12V source and hook it up. Mount the switch and you're done! Since the lock is between the M/C and the axle, your brake lights won't stay on....in case anyone was thinking they would. Now, is that more trouble than replacing a cable? Maybe, maybe not.
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
12-29-2003, 10:16 PM | #4 |
Wiseass secured himself a BAN
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there is a adjustment rod underneath the truck get under there and you will see what i am talking about
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12-29-2003, 10:44 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: St. Johns, Arizona
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My parking brake didn't work on my '68, and the brakes didn't work too well either (manual brakes). I just adjusted out the shoes and now it stops better than my '72 Suburban with power brakes! I can almost make the passenger smack their head on the windshield!
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my 2¢ - t.i.o.l.i. Bowen 1968 K20 fleet 1969 K10 swb fleet 1972 K10 Suburban 1972 C10 lwb step 1992 K1500 'burb 1995 K2500 'burb 1997 C1500 'burb 1999 K1500 2000 K1500 'burb Why do I own so many Suburbans? |
12-29-2003, 11:20 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for the tips guys! I've already done the rudimentaries as described above, and guess what-- my wife ordered me a new front cable for X-mas! Got it in today after work. This replacement looks great; it looks like it was manufactured 10 times better thaqn the factory cable and it even came with the black rubber covering! Best of all, it only cost 35 dollars. My wife ordered it from American Classic Trucks; have any of you delt with these people before? I also got some Original alyernator brakets for the driver's side. They have a lot of parts that even LMC truck doesn't have. I'll let you know how the new cable works.
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12-29-2003, 11:55 PM | #7 |
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jm
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