99-06 vs 07-14

[richards72chevy]

Is the older generation more of a reliable vehicle?Not interested in hearing about the extra options like seat warmers but just the reliability between the two generations.

[sambrutay]

07-14 AFM lifters have a history of failing and oil consumption can be a problem.

[Greg58]

I like the 00-06 series better, for looks for one thing.
Interior door panels fall apart on the later series.
The 800 series Diesels are more sought after. Pre-DEF and emissions.
Trouble is finding a clean one that has been well cared for, they are out there but bring premium money.

[jocko]

I find I'm kinda partial to the 01-02 2500HD.
I have an 01 2500HD reg cab that I really like, picked it up a few years ago, just reached 20k mi on it.
The only vehicle I've ever purchased new is my 01 1500 Z71. Still drive it daily, 297k miles later.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I will just mention the seating comfort. To me the 07+ seats are many times better to me in general on drives over a hour. I do not get the back pains like the earlier models.

I am 5'9" 190 for reference.

Having ridden in both series of trucks, and in many trim levels. Both new, and used.

I will saw the earlier version looks alot better to my eyes, and I agree with the earlier ones having generally better engine life. Due to no AFM or DOD to fail.

[kev2809]

had an 08 crew cab for a few years. worst truck i ever had...and im a chevy guy. traded that pos in for my wifes 4runner and bought myself another 02 (avalanche this time).

i had the lifter issues with it as well. dumbest thing chevy has done was make that engine. with them being so old now..it would be really hard to find one that hasnt started sticking or to find one that someone already knew about the problem and deleted the DOD before they started sticking. friend and his brother both bought a yukon and suburban and luckily they deleted it in time and it was pretty good to them...other than both of them sucking up oil for some reason. roll of the dice imo

[hevy_chevy67]

I have a 2008 as my DD with the 4.8. Knock on wood, but that thing has been the best vehicle I've ever owned in terms of reliability. Its pushing 240,000 miles and other then a few small things here and there, its been great.

[richards72chevy]

I actually like the look of the newer model trucks.I have an 02 and I really don't like the look of the front end but it's super reliable.My sister bought 12 Silverado brand new and she has had more problems than I have had with my 02.I need to get a newer model suv for my wife I was tempted to get her a traverse but those have less than stellar reviews.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by richards72chevy

I actually like the look of the newer model trucks.I have an 02 and I really don't like the look of the front end but it's super reliable.My sister bought 12 Silverado brand new and she has had more problems than I have had with my 02.I need to get a newer model suv for my wife I was tempted to get her a traverse but those have less than stellar reviews.

after 12 they supposedly fixed the engines. for your 2002 a simple front end swap makes a world of a difference. on my 2002 Sierra I put a 2005 front clip. subtle but looks a lot better imo.

[richards72chevy]

Originally Posted by kev2809

after 12 they supposedly fixed the engines. for your 2002 a simple front end swap makes a world of a difference. on my 2002 Sierra I put a 2005 front clip. subtle but looks a lot better imo.

I wonder if they eliminated the cylinder deactivation or just improved it?I like the look of the newer front ends but my truck is just a beater I use to get around.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by richards72chevy

I wonder if they eliminated the cylinder deactivation or just improved it?I like the look of the newer front ends but my truck is just a beater I use to get around.

from what I understand they eliminated it. I was looking into them a few years ago because I was scared to get anything newer than 2006....but the prices were more than what I wanted to spend. I'm super biased to the 99-06 drivetrain though....some people do have great luck with the 07 up but I didn't...

plus no truck payment means more money for my suburban

[hatzie]

They moved to variable valve timing instead.

[russellmarling]

I own an auto repair shop. I would never own an 07-14 in a million years. They have AFM lifter issues, oil consumption issues, they constantly need motor mounts, the balljoints and front end wear out quickly, the dashes crack, the door panels fall apart, ect. 5 people who work at my shop (including me) are still driving 06 and older Chevy trucks, if that tells you anything about our experiences at work with the newer Chevy trucks...

[71meangreenc10]

Electrical issues on the 99-06 are what I have experienced. I have a 05 Yukon XL with 160K, Gauge problems, ABS Relay/Solenoid Light issue, Noise in the radio. I fixed the Gauges, rewired the amp for the radio (stupid location for the bose system) and since I am out west I don't worry about the ABS light which comes on then goes out. Replaced the trans at 155K (4L60E) and did all the engine seals.

Smitty

[bigd65]

I have a 04 Crew and have not had any of those problems... I replaced the upper ball joints, lower control arms, put 2 in lift springs because I don't like the Chevy rake, it's to much... I have a knock in the front end, over bumps, not sure what it is, but the truck is emaculate with 166k

[kev2809]

my 02 Sierra hasn't had any electrical issues yet, just the dumb notorious abs lights on that I haven't bothered with. the avalanche hasn't had any issues yet except for a fuel pump...but I've only had it for a little over 2 years (the Sierra 11 years)

[hatzie]

The LS motors have issues with the oil pump pickup tube O-ring and there are some folks that say the bypass valve in the oil pump itself has issues.

The EVAP vent valves are a yearly replacement part for me and I'm not the only one. The local NAPA stocks three or four at all times. NAPA Echlin is USA made or it was in October when I replaced it. GM OEM, Echliln, BWD, Dorman, ... all seem to fail in around 9-13 months. When the electromagnet coil fails to close the valve during the EVAP test the PCM sets a P0455 code. Because the valve is wide open causing a gross leak. I know it's time to make my semi-yearly pilgrimage to NAPA for a replacement vent valve when the MIL lights up.

There are rust belt issues that you will not experience in CA.

Good solid trucks tho.

[Willowrun]

Originally Posted by hatzie

The EVAP vent valves are a yearly replacement part for me and I'm not the only one. The local NAPA stocks three or four at all times. NAPA Echlin is USA made or it was in October when I replaced it. GM OEM, Echliln, BWD, Dorman, ... all seem to fail in around 9-13 months. When the electromagnet coil fails to close the valve during the EVAP test the PCM sets a P0455 code. Because the valve is wide open causing a gross leak. I know it's time to make my semi-yearly pilgrimage to NAPA for a replacement vent valve when the MIL lights up.

Is this code the "tighten gas cap" code? My '05 with 125K has had that for a few months. I've replaced the valve behind the tank and the one on the intake (and the gas cap) and after clearing the code it comes back in a few days. I've heard there is another remedy that involves dropping the tank and cleaning something on top of it that needs air circulation. Haven't tried that yet but now wondering if I have a bad replacement valve.

[hatzie]

Behind the tank is the vent valve. Don't expect this little bugger to last.
The purge valve is on the intake manifold. Make sure you don't have vacuum at the hose pip with the electrical connector disconnected and the engine running.
Gas caps never fix the problem. Don't bother.

Diagnose it.

Query the PCM for the fuel tank pressure with the filler cap removed. If it's not super close to 0"Hg you probably have a failed fuel tank pressure sensor.
Re-install the filler cap.
You should be able to hear the vent valve actuate when you command it closed with the ignition on and the engine off.
You should be able to feel vacuum at the hose connection to the purge valve when you remove the hose and command it open with the engine running. It shouldn't have any vacuum at the hose connection with the electrical connector unplugged. Re-connect the hose and electrical to the purge valve.
Test it further by commanding the Purge valve open and the Vent Valve closed while watching the tank pressure. The tank pressure should drop negative fairly quickly. If the pressure doesn't change you have a really big leak, the vent valve is hung open, or the tank pressure sensor is knackered.

You can change the pressure sensor without dropping the tank by reaching up over the top of the LH frame rail and feeling around for it. It looks similar to a MAP sensor and installs the same way. Get one from a GM dealership don't bother with aftermarket.

Clear the dirt off the top of the tank before you pull the sensor out. After 2003 these trucks don't have a fuel filter if someone didn't install one. Reach up with a blow gun and blast the dirt off the top of the tank.

Unplug the pressure sensor before removing it so you don't damage the connector and wiring.
You can snap the pip on the sensor off so carefully turn and lift on the sensor don't just yank on it.
Wipe some Sil-Glyde on the replacement sensors' gasket so it won't stick to the sender.

[Willowrun]

Wow, thank you so much for the detailed diagnosis method. I've stayed away from all but the simple or chassis type fixes on newer vehicles so a lot of this is new to me.

I have a code reader but I'm not sure if it allows me to command things opened and closed. I currently have this OBD reader:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...nova+obd&pos=4

I'm guessing I need one with bi-directional capability. Would the one below allow me to do what's needed?
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...nova+obd&pos=2

Can you recommend something better?

Thanks again.

[hatzie]

Yours isn't bi-directional and that's definitely needed.

The Tech2 clones are cheap enough that it's not worth getting an Autel Maxsys or similar if all you are working on is your Pre-2012 GM. Around the same price as the Innova 5610. The Tech2 is guaranteed to access the BCM, 4x4 computers, and other proprietary controllers. I've read that the GM ABS computers are a crapshoot with the mid range aftermarket tools. High end is another story but that's a big leap in price.

I paid $350 for my Tech2 ($325 + $25 shipping IIRC) but that was six years ago. Inflation has hit shipping hardcore. You'll pay at least $125 for shipping now and probably more. I'd get the white box kit for a hundred bux less. It won't have the pretty blowmolded case but you don't need it for a hundred bux. Just get a canvas toolbag from the Borg and some big Ziploc freezer bags to keep the moisture out of stuff and leave the CAN-DI attached to the J1962 plug and coil it with the D-Sub to round plug cable coiled in one freezer bag.
^^^ that all assumes that the Shanghai lockdowns haven't completely killed the ability to buy these at all. Ali Express could be kindof a crapshoot but I've had OK luck buying electronics gear on that platform just pay attention and be wary.

If I didn't have my automotive scan tool canvas bags in a big air and liquid tight Pelican 1640 transport case I'd store mine on the top shelf in my office/lab closet instead of in the barn. I have a couple of those 1640 cases that I bought at an auction. They weren't cheap but they'd float to the ceiling in a flood without getting the stuff inside wet. The outside humidity getting in when I open the case isn't a problem with a big desiccant pak inside as long as I close the lid.

If you go to the Tech2 Locator the SAAB guys put up you may be able to find someone local that would plug one in for a beer or four, some cash, or even good karma. I'd do it if you weren't 20 hours away :-)