My 72 Cheyenne Super C20

[D.B]

Ok, this is my first post and I told PJMoreland I would put one out there with a few pics of my truck.

[pjmoreland]

Wow, she's a beauty. How long have you had it? What's the history of your truck?

[D.B]

Man do I know how to post pics, LOL. I thought I had this picture taking thing figured out. Hopefully these pics below post better than my previous one did.

[pjmoreland]

So clean. I like your seat upholstery. Your tank has a drain on it? Mine doesn't. That would have come in handy a time or two.

[Alex69c10]

That is super clean! I love it. Good work, buddy!

[5025speed]

Really like your truck! What are you using for rims/tires size etc?

[D.B]

Thanks everyone.
I just wrote a novel on my truck since PJ asked and when I hit send button it told me I was not logged in. Bummer. I will try again.

I bought my 72 back in 94 from the original South Texas owner. I only paid $150 out of my pocket for it since I was in an accident and totaled out my 69 GMC. The Insurance company asked me to find a replacement truck equal to what I had and they would buy it. Well the guy wanted $5k and the insurance company said their max payout was $4850. So out came the $150 and the truck was mine. The person I got it from said he bought it new and that he only parked it outside overnight once. He said he hated to get rid of it but he needed a newer ride and the truck drank the fuel. He also mentioned that he hoped I took better care of it then he did.
So the seat is original and I replaced the carpet about 4 years ago when I stripped the interior out, sprayed Lizardskin Sound Deadener and Heat Barrier down, then covered that with Flatline Barrier. This made a world of difference in cab noise reduction and help make the AC colder. The stereo is a Custom Autosound with Pioneer 6x9 cab corners and new front dash speaker. A good friend bought me a 8" Bazooka Bass which made the sound 100% better. The engine is a 511 CI Gen V 4 bolt bolt main, Eagle 4340 forged crank, Eagle H-beam rods with 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts, Crane Hyd roller cam 632 lift 304 duration, Edelbrock Perf RPM Alum heads, Edelbrock Perf AirGap intake, FiTech fuel injection. The motor dynod at 589 hp and 671 lbs ft torque. The trans is a Turbo 400 built will all of the good HP internals, 2200 rpm stall and a GearVendors overdrive unit. The rear is a Dana 60 with a Detroit Locker and 4.10 gears. I had the steel rims widened to 15x10 rear and 15x8 fronts. I have large tube Tri-Y headers with gasketless collectors going in to 3" pipes to 50 series Flowmasters and it dumps right behind the bumper. I tried to dump it before the rear but it made to much interior noise.
The fuel tank is from Boyd's but it was reworked to 30 gallons and has the rear sump for the fuel pump to sit down into. But as you can tell it is a C20 and when I started playing with it all of my C10 buddies wanted me to convert it from 8 lug to 5 lug and shorten the bed down. I am glad I did'nt.

[D.B]

Well I noticed one mistake I made in my story and that is the wheel size. They are actually 16x10 rear and 16x8 fronts. The tires are BFG 305 70R16 rear and LT265 75R16 fronts.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by D.B

Thanks everyone.
I just wrote a novel on my truck since PJ asked and when I hit send button it told me I was not logged in. Bummer. I will try again.

I bought my 72 back in 94 from the original South Texas owner. I only paid $150 out of my pocket for it since I was in an accident and totaled out my 69 GMC. The Insurance company asked me to find a replacement truck equal to what I had and they would buy it. Well the guy wanted $5k and the insurance company said their max payout was $4850. So out came the $150 and the truck was mine. The person I got it from said he bought it new and that he only parked it outside overnight once. He said he hated to get rid of it but he needed a newer ride and the truck drank the fuel. He also mentioned that he hoped I took better care of it then he did.
So the seat is original and I replaced the carpet about 4 years ago when I stripped the interior out, sprayed Lizardskin Sound Deadener and Heat Barrier down, then covered that with Flatline Barrier. This made a world of difference in cab noise reduction and help make the AC colder. The stereo is a Custom Autosound with Pioneer 6x9 cab corners and new front dash speaker. A good friend bought me a 8" Bazooka Bass which made the sound 100% better. The engine is a 511 CI Gen V 4 bolt bolt main, Eagle 4340 forged crank, Eagle H-beam rods with 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts, Crane Hyd roller cam 632 lift 304 duration, Edelbrock Perf RPM Alum heads, Edelbrock Perf AirGap intake, FiTech fuel injection. The motor dynod at 589 hp and 671 lbs ft torque. The trans is a Turbo 400 built will all of the good HP internals, 2200 rpm stall and a GearVendors overdrive unit. The rear is a Dana 60 with a Detroit Locker and 4.10 gears. I had the steel rims widened to 15x10 rear and 15x8 fronts. I have large tube Tri-Y headers with gasketless collectors going in to 3" pipes to 50 series Flowmasters and it dumps right behind the bumper. I tried to dump it before the rear but it made to much interior noise.
The fuel tank is from Boyd's but it was reworked to 30 gallons and has the rear sump for the fuel pump to sit down into. But as you can tell it is a C20 and when I started playing with it all of my C10 buddies wanted me to convert it from 8 lug to 5 lug and shorten the bed down. I am glad I did'nt.

Dang. That thing's a sleeper. What a score finding it from the original owner.

[D.B]

Ok, here is a little more about my truck. The intake is an Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap. Just wanted to clear this up in case someone was wondering why I put a plan performer intake on the RPM heads. The radiator is from Wizard Cooling and is a custom made unit with large crossflow 1.25" tubes and uses 2 - 14" SPAL brushless PWM fans. And since I needed more amps to run the cooling fans, FiTech, GearVendors, Phanton 340 Areomotive electric fuel pump and stereo system I installed a Powermaster High Amp alternator. The alternator puts out 168 amps at idle, 175 amp at cruise and 181 amps at top end. It covers what is needed with a little left over. The neat thing about the radiator is that it uses a screw in sensor that controls the fan speed. So when the engine temp gets to 175 degrees the fan starts to turn but very slowly and as the temp increases the fans speed up. Max fan speed is at 195 degrees or when the AC is turned on. I can say this, during the hottest days of Texas summer my temp with the AC on never gets above 165 degrees and when the AC is turned off it never goes above 185 degrees. Also I noticed when the fan is at full speed and you stand in front of the grill area, it would pull your shirt towards the grill. That was pretty neat when I first noticed it. I also installed a Powermaster geardrive starter since original GM starter struggled to start the engine.

[jumpsoffrock]

Do you have any pics of the interior barrier work in progress?

What "sprayed heat barrier" did you use?

[D.B]

I used Lizardskin for both the sound deadener and the heat barrier. Then I placed over that the Flatline Barrier. Here are some pics.

[D.B]

A few more pics of the interior.

[D.B]

I also found these pics. The shiny light gray coating is the sound deadener and the darker gray coating is the heat barrier applied over the sound deadener.

[D.B]

And these pics as well.

[D.B]

Just in case some were wondering if I had any pics of the Wizard Cooling radiator, fan, alternator and starter. Here they are.

[D.B]

A few more pics of the radiator and fan, Powermaster alternator and starter.

[D.B]

And now some pics for anyone who is curious about the fuel tank and fuel pump.

[D.B]

A few more. I will say one mistake I did make was when I installed the fuel filler in the bed. I could have done a better job on that. I do plan to fix it at some point. But right now, it is covered up with a rubber bed mat.

[jumpsoffrock]

Thank you very much for the pics!
Can you tell me if you noticed any difficulty installing the interior after you painted and installed the barriers? Did the thicknesses of the paint and other prodicts make fitment more difficult?


Thanks for your help!

[D.B]

Hey Jumpsoffrocks - Thanks for asking. No issue what so ever. I was told by some that my carpet may not fit right. But as you can see I think it fits great. I was also told that I may have trouble using my seat bolts. But what I did was I screwed full threaded bolts from underneath through the original threaded inserts so they came through the carpet like studs. I then set the seat on them and use flanged nuts to tighten the seat down. No need to go hunting for the threaded holes or taking a chance on stripping out the threaded inserts.

[dave6672]

Beautiful truck! Thanks for sharing.

[dagnabbitt]

So clean. Beautiful truck.

[bry593]

Is that TBI?

Like the core support filler panels. GM should have included those from the factory.

I think that Dana is a terrible choice for your truck. You should remove it, sell it to me for very little money, and replace it with I don't know, something else.....

Kidding of course! Great looking truck!

[D.B]

Thanks bry593, Sorry the Dana stays. I hope you find something that works. Years ago I was wondering if a new HD2500 rear would work. I was wanting the disc brake set up. But never actually measured it out to see what the differences were.
The fuel injection unit on my truck is made by FiTech and it works great. I can go out in the morning and hit the key, engine may turn once or twice and it starts up. Idles, no need to get in the truck pump the pedal a couple of times then wait for it to warm up.
The cab corner speakers was a great idea for who ever thought of it and yes that would have been a good deal for GM to offer it as an option back in the day. Surprised no one at GM thought of it.