Can 1968 C10 front trailing arm bushings be replaced while on the truck?

[HeavyHauler]

Can the rear trailing arm bushings for a 1968 C10 be replaced while the arms are still on the truck are do you have to completely remove the trailing arms to replace the bushings?

[Accelo]

I am assuming so, with the correct tools. Might be handy to have a ball joint press or something like that to reinstall the bushings. Maybe it can be installed with a BFH. But I'm not going to be under a dusty old truck while it's being slammed with a four pound hammer.

Doubt it would be worth the headache.
Removing the E-brake cable and the two large nuts on the U-bolts and it's out.
Of course getting the large nuts off a rusty old u-bolt that has been backed into a few times is no picnic either.
Cheers.

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I am assuming so, with the correct tools. Might be handy to have a ball joint press or something like that to reinstall the bushings. Maybe it can be installed with a BFH. But I'm not going to be under a dusty old truck while it's being slammed with a four pound hammer.

Doubt it would be worth the headache.
Removing the E-brake cable and the two large nuts on the U-bolts and it's out.
Of course getting the large nuts off a rusty old u-bolt that has been backed into a few times is no picnic either.
Cheers.

I have already replaced the rear springs,shocks and converted to rear disc so the disassembly of that part would be easier since all new hardware was used.

[SCOTI]

Either way won't be fun if they're the original bushings. If one has access to a lift & proper shop stands/screw-jacks, it's worth a shot.
Flat-backing it as a DIY @ home driveway deal? Not so much mainly because of the limited access/mobility.

There's not much to getting the arms off as mentioned (front bushing bolts; e-brake cables; rear end housing U-bolts; lower shock bolts). Just trying to drop the fronts to do the job w/these mentioned items attached & tightened to spec will likely work against you which will complicate the task.

The bushings themselves are not a simple in/out rebuild & even doing them on the work bench is a struggle sometimes. Usually they're not removal friendly. So the struggle of trying to do them under the truck where it's difficult to secure things in place will likely be a PITA. It's possible one could get REALLY LUCKY & they won't be bad; but like mentioned fighting w/their removal under the vehicle won't be fun. After that, trying to re-align the front of the arm/bushing w/the hole in the frame bracket to get the bolts back in w/everything previously mentioned attached & tightened to spec will be a PITA.

For reassembly, it's usually easier to pop the bolts in up front & then work the U-bolts into place @ each side for the rear. Once you have all those in place, the shock brackets can go back on, the hardware started & then the e-brake cables.

*EDIT* You posted while I was proofing....

[71 super]

It would be tough without taking completely out, but removal of bushings is a lot easier if you use a drill and drill out the rubber around the sleeve. You can see technique on brothers tech channel on you tube. Dave Welch does good job of explaining how to remove.

[HeavyHauler]

Will i have to remove or disconnect my brake hoses as well in order to remove the trailing arms. I am thinking that i will need to.

[kev2809]

nope remove the 2 bolts holding the arms to the crossmember. unhook the parking brake cable on each arm. unbolt the u bolts from the axle. slide them out. the bushings on mine came out super easy. I drilled small holes in the rubber around the metal sleeve. then put a socket the same size and lightly hammered it out. then just peeled the old rubber out with a flat punch. was almost too easy.

new ones went in easy too. slightly grease them and tapped them right in.

[HO455]

Yes you can and here is how I did mine. If you don't have a lift then some tall jack stands to the frame will be needed. Then you will have to remove the rear wheels and possibly unbolt the lower shock mounts. All this is to get enough articulation of the rear axle.

I had mine on a lift and the truck has air bags so I didn't have to remove the wheels or shocks.

Reading this years later makes me wish I could go back into it and do some editing. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...698377&page=11

[Accelo]

Here is a couple of tools I made to press the bushing in. One is split in two and used as spacer to keep the two half's from collapsing when the bushing is pressed in. The other is just the pilot used in the press. This was designed to only push on the OD of the bushing. Maybe an over kill? However you can see the scrape marks in the bushing. Do they make a busing where you leave the outer case in the trailing arm? I used the full bushing.
Don't forget you tighten the retaining nut after the truck is back on the ground or at least supported by the rear axle.
I liked HO455's innovative solution. No press required. Looks very doable.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Here is a couple of tools I made to press the bushing in. One is split in two and used as spacer to keep the two half's from collapsing when the bushing is pressed in. The other is just the pilot used in the press. This was designed to only push on the OD of the bushing. Maybe an over kill? However you can see the scrape marks in the bushing. Do they make a busing where you leave the outer case in the trailing arm? I used the full bushing.
Don't forget you tighten the retaining nut after the truck is back on the ground or at least supported by the rear axle.

Energy Suspension poly bushings press into the OG shell. Rubber is better here but many do the poly swap.