'66 C20 control arm questions

[PJ66C20]

Hi all. I decided to rebuild my control arms and ran into a couple snags.

1) one of the upper arm mount studs snapped. Any resource for a replacement? Looks like a wheel stud.

2) one coil spring looks like it has Peyronie's disease. I wasn't planning on replacing the coils, I like the stance as is. Does it need to be swapped out? This wasn't in the budget.

3) the new lower control arm shaft I received is just a cylinder with no bolt holes like the original one. Are they interchangeable if I get ubolts? Or, can I just use the threaded ends if they look the same, nothing wrong with the rest of it. After freight $$ to send back the wrong shafts and get new ones it's hardly worth it.

Thanks

[bhap]

3. If the end caps (bushings) are the same size, you can just replace them and reuse your old shafts. Just make sure the shafts are not bent. There is a specific procedure to install the bushings to get them equal and centered in the control arm. Clean everything well and lubricate. Alternate sides and count turns installing bushings to keep them equal, but if you encounter extreme resistance to the bushings threading in and fully seating, the shaft may be bent. You can buy the bushings by themselves if your shafts are good.

[PJ66C20]

Originally Posted by bhap

3. If the end caps (bushings) are the same size, you can just replace them and reuse your old shafts. Just make sure the shafts are not bent. There is a specific procedure to install the bushings to get them equal and centered in the control arm. Clean everything well and lubricate. Alternate sides and count turns installing bushings to keep them equal, but if you encounter extreme resistance to the bushings threading in and fully seating, the shaft may be bent. You can buy the bushings by themselves if your shafts are good.

Thanks for the advice. I read that centering procedure on another thread on here. I was a bit mystified with how to reassemble them. Counting turns is a great idea. I will check for straightness on my bench at work tomorrow. I believe the torque spec is 100 ftlbs on the lowers and 90 on the uppers? Does that sound right?
I have one upper all cleaned, painted and assembled.

[bhap]

Yes, that sounds right on the torque spec. Once they bottom, you'll know.

[PJ66C20]

well they're not bent but end is shot on the top one pictured.
Dang, these are not cheap.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by PJ66C20

well they're not bent but end is shot on the top one pictured.
Dang, these are not cheap.

Wow your right. I just did a search myself.

[PJ66C20]

I found the correct lower shafts at Classic parts Inc. $104.
I also found a stud to replace the snapped upper control arm mount.
Looks like it will work but I haven't installed it yet... I'll post the result, hopefully positive.
Stud is a Euclid E8963.
I got new springs too. Hopefully get it reassembled this weekend.

[PJ66C20]

The Euclid stud worked. Because of the limited room to swing a hammer to install through the frame (but I could at least get it started) I stacked some washers held on with a nut and used a pickel fork to get the stud seated enough to draw it in all the way with an impact wrench. The serrations and shoulder do stick through the upper shaft so a little hole enlargement on the curved washer and shims was necessary. But it worked.
Got it all assembled
One thing that busted my balls was getting the lower ball joints into the spindle. Wrestled with it way too long only to discover my jack (which was under the ball joint) was interfering with the clearance. After that discovery, it went smoothly. Getting the new springs seated was a bit tricky but not too bad. No spring compressor needed.
Now to get it aligned. I can't believe it's snowing again here in NW Pennsylvania.

[PJ66C20]

...

[The Rocknrod]

Nice truck PJ66C20.

[PJ66C20]

I think one lower control arm is too tight. One side I torqued to 100 ftlbs and it would move by hand and stay in place if you let it go. The other one (which had all new shaft/bushings) was so tight even before the torque wrench clicked at 100, that I could not move it at all by hand. I had to use the jack to get it to move up and a hammer to move it down.
I drove it a little and it acts like there is little suspension, kinda bouncy, like just the tires are the only spring. The shocks are fine.
I'm guessing the one arm is too tight?
I was going to loosen it but how should I approach retorquing it?
Thanks.