Fuel filter ideas

[MikeB]

My truck has a filter like the one below under the tank. I can change it by clamping the inlet hose, but I can't replace the hose unless the tank is empty.

I don't have a filter between the mechanical pump and carb, but the float bowls were surprisingly clean when I rebuilt the carb for the first time in nearly 10 years.

So, what are you guys using for fuel filters?

[MJN]

I still use the little pleated filter inside the inlet of the quadrajet. No issues, just change it on a regular basis.

[jumpsoffrock]

I know you didn't start this thread to attract smart-arse remarks, but honestly just change it quickly and let some fuel spill.


Obviously the most popular solution has to bypass some amount of the factory steel piping and use rubber hose--then insert filter wherever you want. ...and folks don't want the rubber hose.

Easiest clean fix is as MJN stated--just use stock Qjet.

[MikeB]

OK, I'll buy a Q-Jet and another intake manifold!

Seriously, when the tank is almost empty, I'll run a single length of fuel hose from tank to hard line. The name brand fuel hoses with braided reinforcement seem to last a very long time.

I'll then install something like this between pump and carb. I know I have one somewhere.

[pjmoreland]

If you crack open the hard line fitting at the tank sender, it will break the siphon, allowing you to remove the hose underneath without the tank wanting to empty its entire contents onto the floor. One step beyond that would be to completely disconnect the hard line fitting at the tank sender and run your engine for a few minutes until the line, fuel pump and carb bowls are completely empty.

[CCCC]

Good info above on breaking the siphon - it works. However, I usually settle for spilling a bit of gas until I can jam a tapered wooden or rubber plug into the line.

The filter setups vary - if the truck has more than one tank with tank selector valve, I try to have a filter (I use only Wix clear plastic) under the cab after the valve and before the pump. If not, I mount the filter between the riser and the carburetor and often use a "U" bolt to surround the filter and fasten solid to avoid vibration.

Most of my carbs are Q'jets and I change those little inlet filters with some frequency. The Carter AFB design seems much less sensitive to dirt/crappy fuel than others - but Holley seems more subject to such issues. Hope thhis is of some help.

[Steeveedee]

I have one like in post #1 between the pump and the carb. Not my choice, the truck came to me that way, and I'm too lazy to go to a new hard line (I'd bend my own, I have the tools). I'll have to check the carb again; it may have the filter inside. I've driven it about 5k miles since rebuilding the carb (Q-Jet). If I was to put a filter before the fuel pump it would be a big low-resistance job like racers use (only if it make my truck quicker)

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by MikeB

OK, I'll buy a Q-Jet and another intake manifold!

Seriously, when the tank is almost empty, I'll run a single length of fuel hose from tank to hard line. The name brand fuel hoses with braided reinforcement seem to last a very long time.

I'll then install something like this between pump and carb. I know I have one somewhere.

Stay away from filters that screw together . I had one and it constantly would leak after a few 100 miles .

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Stay away from filters that screw together . I had one and it constantly would leak after a few 100 miles .

Yup. I had one on a '66 Le Mans many years ago. Smelled gas, and pulled over. Gas everywhere! I screwed it back together by hand, and replaced it the same day, with a solid metal can type filter, like in the OP. That car turned high 13s. I had a bit of money in it.

[72SB]

OP

My truck came with mostly soft line between pump & carb and I have the filter type you show between pump & carb. There was minimal (read a few drops) of gas that came out when I cut the rubber line to install filter.

Some feel the clear plastic ones are good because you can see gas/debris.....I prefer the metal inline type

[jumpsoffrock]

Wix 33033 is a cheap all metal filter, 3/8" lines

['68OrangeSunshine]

I use the steel can filters before the carb. I once had a backfire turn into carb fire and I had the plastic filter right over the intake. Also I had an electric fuel pump that was not rigged with the recomended oil pressure safety solenoid. I was seconds away from a big fireball.
In non-critical areas, the clear plastic filter might be OK -- like inline with an auxiliary tank -- but not in the engine bay.
I use a Holley Blue electric fuel pump to transfer gas from jerry cans into the truck's tank. In the pickup side of the line, I use the clear glass inline filter to strain out rust particles. Just a temporary rig, so it has its uses, but again not in the engine bay.

[Palf70Step]

I use the Wix 33033(looks like your first picture) between the pump and carb. I have always heard it can be tough on the mechanical fuel pumps with a filter before the pump, but I have done it without any issues. I would normally put another wix just before the pump so I could reach it from engine compartment. When I was replacing a fuel line on one truck, I used the setup from a 95 C1500 which had the fuel filter built into the line. Just unbolt it and replace when needed. My $.02 is get rid of the filter by the tank. Replace your line and put it either inline under the cab or up by fuel filter to make it easier access.

[MARKDTN]

I had bad luck with a suction side filter. in the late '90s on my '83 K20 I put a filter inline where the tank switching valve would be at the same time I put on a new AC Delco pump. That pump lasted less than 2 months like that. I took that filter out and just relied on the one in the carb until I changed to fuel injection in 2003. Coincidence-I don't know-but I have never done filters on the suction side again. On the flip side, there are a whole lot of lawn mowers out there with suction side filters.

[Joyridin]

I have one near the front of the engine, and it looks similar tot he one you are showing. I believe it is a TBI EFI filter. They were low pressure systems and had pretty fine filtering capabilities due to it being EFI. Maybe early 80's GM products?

[mr.mud1]

originally GM didn't put an in-line filter,the strainer on the fuel sender and the little stone filter in the carb.that's how i still do it today.i build lots of quadrajets and often when i pull the apart,the filter is not there?an in-line filter somewhere and a bunch of rubber hose,not ideal in my view?

[sick472]

Originally Posted by MikeB

...I can change it by clamping the inlet hose, but I can't replace the hose unless the tank is empty...

If you must use the filter on the suction side...Remove the gas cap for good measure, clamp the hose, remove filter, set your compressor to about 10psi, push your air gun in the hose, remove the clamp, give it a bit of air, and blow the fuel back into the tank...siphon is now broke and the line is clear (mostly).

I hardlined the fuel supply from the tank to the mech fulel pump, then ran hard line up near the top of the radiator before adding the fuel filter. This allows me to change the filter and hoses without worrying about the siphon (unless my tank is plumb full). And, I don't have to worry about the filter or hoses cracking and draining my tank. Note: The alternator belt guard was an afterthought to avoid a belt breaking and wiping out the fuel filter.

I do agree that the in-line fuel filter is not necessary (given a good sock and carb minin filter), but I like to see fuel flowing through the clear filter for troubleshooting purposes.

[MikeB]

Thanks for the suggestions on keeping gasoline off the floor and me!

After doing some reading, I decided on an Earl's 30 micron filter with washable/replaceable bronze filter element for use between pump and carb.

They also suggest a 100 micron filter between tank and pump, but I'm not sure what I'll do there. It's been 30+ years since I got the truck, so I can't remember if GM used a in-line filter under the tank, or just a rubber hose to isolate the in-cab tank from the frame.

BTW, my experience with removable element in-line filters has been good over the years. I don't remember ever having a leak with an Edelbrock aluminum filter or a Purolator filter with a glass body.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by sick472

Please tell us about that engine!

[sick472]

The story behind how that engine ended up in my truck is a rather long one that may or may not interest most, but I will tell you that it is a Pontiac 400 made up of parts that range from 1970 to 1976. It's nothing fancy as it only has about 300-350 HP, but, if you know anything about the old Pontiac engines, you know they're torquey...it should have about 400 to 425 ft-lbs of torque. It moves the truck real nice with a 3.08 rear end.

Here's another angle of the motor, I mean, fuel filter...lol

[RichardJ]

Replacing those carb filters on Rochester carbs as regular maintenance is ALWAYS a bad idea.
The repair nuts were very common back in the day because guys thought they had to replace that filter and in many cases either cross-threaded or over-tightened them.
Thousands of GM vehicles in the '60s and '70s had engine fires because of that carb filter.
The repair nut was a one shot deal, because if someone tried to reinstall a second time, it would never seal again. The carb was trashed.

I've always put the filter on the suction side, because I don't want trash going through the pump valves.

I don't trust plastic or glass filter, because I've seen both that have broken. A plastic filter under the frame is away from the engine, but it's just waiting for a rock.

A plastic filter in direct line with the fan blades and belts is pure lunacy.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by sick472

If you must use the filter on the suction side...Remove the gas cap for good measure, clamp the hose, remove filter, set your compressor to about 10psi, push your air gun in the hose, remove the clamp, give it a bit of air, and blow the fuel back into the tank...siphon is now broke and the line is clear (mostly).

I hardlined the fuel supply from the tank to the mech fulel pump, then ran hard line up near the top of the radiator before adding the fuel filter. This allows me to change the filter and hoses without worrying about the siphon (unless my tank is plumb full). And, I don't have to worry about the filter or hoses cracking and draining my tank. Note: The alternator belt guard was an afterthought to avoid a belt breaking and wiping out the fuel filter.

I do agree that the in-line fuel filter is not necessary (given a good sock and carb minin filter), but I like to see fuel flowing through the clear filter for troubleshooting purposes.

Air cooling fins on the valve covers is a neat idea.

[Steeveedee]

And those are some of the coolest valve covers I've ever seen...as in once!

[sick472]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

...A plastic filter in direct line with the fan blades and belts is pure lunacy.

I resemble that remark! lol

[sick472]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

And those are some of the coolest valve covers I've ever seen...as in once!

I'm glad you all like them. I was after the traditional finned valve covers that have the fins running front to back, but my tightness got the better of me and I just could not go with the flow and get my wallet out. These were much less and added to the oddness of a Pontiac in a C10. I don't think they are available any more from Speedway and they only came in a Pontiac fit IIRC. I've never seen them other than on my engine either.