Progress & Question

[MDFarms]

Finally getting started on assembly of frame and components. Question what would be correct bolts for assembly? Yellow zinc: Clear Zinc or anyone use stainless? This is for Frame assembly only, I have all proper bolts for body assembly.

Just curious on thought.

[sick472]

I cant' help much with OEM bolt specs, but can lend my rules of thumb on hardware...

Yellow Grade 8 for anything bearing weight, suspension related, or has higher torque specs.

Silver Grade 5 for more lighter duty, less critical connections.

And, I use SS everywhere I can, but NOT in place of the Grade 8's. I also avoid using SS in places that would be hard to get to should the threads seize up. Stainless threads gall very easily and can bind the connection. This requires that the bolt be broken or cut off, hence being able to get at it with a air chisel, cut-off grinder, or the like. Blind holes are not good candidates for the cheaper SS bolts IMO.

I'd bet you can get SS hardware in an equivalent strength as the Grade 5's and maybe the grade 8's, but the cost of such hardware gets much, much more expensive than the common 302, 304, or 316 grades.

Always use anti-sieze on SS hardware...ALWAYS!

REAL NICE PROJECT BY THE WAY, I LOVE THE ROOM YOU HAVE and YOUR APPROACH!

[May70]

I bought just a large grade 8 kit a few years ago and that was a great decision. I would debate using SS. I also bought the body kit. Beautiful shop.

[stepsider]

Not a big fan of stainless, Look good but many problems with seize and galling. China stainless not the quality of USA stainless. Just my opinion.

[Grumpy old man]

grade 8 yellow , Buy from tractor supply by the pound vs others at by the piece . buy more than you need and various sizes , Nothing worse than running out or needing a longer or shorter bolt and having to make another trip .

[SCOTI]

At one point there was stainless hardware made in a 'suspension' grade but it was stupid x stupid expensive for the larger sizes. Not sure of availability these days. As mentioned, SS anywhere a torque value is required is a coin-toss on getting it back apart even w/anti-seize.

If your purchasing from local brick & mortar places, GRADE-8 'yellow' zinc should be used for suspension or areas requiring torqued values. GRADE-5 'silver' zinc can be used for items just getting fastened together that aren't load bearing. if budget can allow, GRADE-8's through-out for consistency does look nice.

I used to have a buddy in the plating industry that I would bring my GRADE-8 yellow zinc to get re-coated in black zinc (for consistency) . I prefer all the hardware to match if/when possible as it's just a cleaner visual IMO. The black allowed for quick & easy 'touch-ups' as needed.

[LS short box]

I use grade 8 thru out. Bought in bulk at the local Fleet Farm store. Same with the nuts and flat/lock washers. I tend to grade 8 nylock locking nuts.
The only place I use SS fasteners is small like 10-24 for brake/fuel line fasteners.
I like the button head 10-24's with nylock nuts.

[TALLone71]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

grade 8 yellow , Buy from tractor supply by the pound vs others at by the piece . buy more than you need and various sizes , Nothing worse than running out or needing a longer or shorter bolt and having to make another trip .

this is where I get my hardware too,grade8 yellow all the way for my frame related assembley, much cheaper by the pound, and I load up when I'm there to make sure I don't run out, and I get my welding gas there as well

[SCOTI]

I've gotten hardware from my local Tractor Supply as well. The only issue I had w/sourcing it there was you're limited to coarse thread only & select lengths.

I use McMaster Carr as well.

[Accelo]

I prefer to use the original fasteners whenever possible. They are not difficult to restore IMHO.
Their are companies that sell complete kits with most the hardware. They are pretty decent but not exact replacements. If GM used high grade bolts it was indicated on the head. If they were graded I used the same grade black fasteners. My preference is not the Gold Iridite look as it makes the fasteners stand out. I acknowledge others like it. Rusting is no longer an issue as my truck is garaged. If it was a driver I may have made different fastener decisions.
Good or bad, one of the first things I notice on a restored truck is the fasteners. The special fasteners used on the hood latch for instance. Fastener type is an important decision. Kudos to you for the forward thinking.
I would kill for your working area and organization skills. Nicely done.
Cheers.

[mr.mud1]

X2 on the original fasteners,i re-use all i can or buy new black oxide bolts if the original finish is gone.i clean my bolts in a tumbler and they come out pretty nice.i do use Gr 8 bolts on just about everything else around here,whether the job calls for it or not.i buy them at a local hardware store where the have UNC & UNF in Gr 8 or Gr 5.i'm not a fan of the nylocks and use steel Gr 8 locknuts instead.i do use a some stainless,very little, that i usually polish for goofy stuff like license plate bolts and the odd bracket,depending on where it is and what it does.as Accelo said,i notice little things like fasteners too,one of my pet peeves is when i see someone put a Gr 5 nut on Gr 8 bolt?just little stuff but it's all important.

[69cam]

Check out AMK products. Supposed to have all the correct markings on the bolt heads.