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01-03-2004, 01:26 AM | #1 |
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Location: Iowa
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tips and trick of the 383
I would have put this one on the engine and drivetrain board but it dosent work. what is any tricks or tips you 383 guys have picked up or heared of about building a 383.
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01-03-2004, 01:31 AM | #2 |
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Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
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well the cheap way is to use a 400 crank....
the high dollar way is but a 383 stroker crank... eather way you need stroker rods... the block will need clearenced |
01-03-2004, 01:49 AM | #3 |
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the block has to be clearanced but you don't have to have a different rod! I'd reccomend buying an eagle kit it comes with a balanced rotating assembly!
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Kevin Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK! My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4 So Far my best Times are: Motor only: 6.44 1/8 @ 104.13 10.39 1/4 @ 125.83 Nitrous Times: 5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft 9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole! |
01-03-2004, 02:44 AM | #4 |
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Location: Carmichael, California
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i would`nt use the 400 crank. you can get a crank from scat that cost a little more/less than a cut down 400 and it`s stronger. they are available in nodular iron or cast steel. they are around $300 depending on where you shop. you have to cut the main journals down on the 400 to fit the 350 mains and it can weakin the crank. as far as the rods go, if you use 400 rods you don`t have to modify them. if you use 350 rods, you`ll have to grind the rod bolt and this is good for around .550 lift. my buddy had a 383 with 350 rods and he was running a crower solid cam with .550 lift. you`ll have to notch the block at the pan rails for crank clearance. these are very popular motors and any machine shop can do the work for you.
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Anthony |
01-03-2004, 04:03 AM | #5 |
Ebay Junky
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Location: CO
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or you could buy mine and save a ton of cash...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=80269
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1972 CHEVY C-10 SWB 2WD - Possible Typhoon 4.3 turbo drivetrain.. 1983 Chevy c10 swb 2wd - possible 350tbi supercharged... |
01-03-2004, 04:19 PM | #6 |
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thats one hell of a motor but I didnt want to break $2000 on the motor. Have you had it dynoed if so how much hp/torque did it make?
this ones for the first reasponse where can I get one of those kits? Last edited by GMC70c20; 01-03-2004 at 04:34 PM. |
01-03-2004, 04:41 PM | #7 |
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Location: Redding,CA...USA
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you can buy a 383 crank for under 200 bucks on ebay..you will need stroker pistons...and a 400 flex plate and balancer..it will need to be balanced also...the cost of everything(cheap) is around 650 with machine work...thats for a bargain basement engine...step up to decent rods and forged psitons and a good crank..its well over 1500.00....will there be a big difference in performance?..not for your average combo...but if you plan on running it hard..it will stay together much longer
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
01-03-2004, 04:55 PM | #8 |
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I wont drive it everday, probably 4 or 5 times a mounth and not in the winter. I wont drive it hard everware, I will put the hammer down every once in a while but not all the time.
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01-03-2004, 05:03 PM | #9 |
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Location: Redding,CA...USA
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one more thing..if you are using stock 5.7 rods..have the machine shop clearance the rod bolt on each rod prior to balancing..also buy the pistons ..rings..wrist pins..harmonic damper..flex plate prior to having the machine work done
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
01-04-2004, 12:18 AM | #10 |
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Location: Iowa
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When you said $650 for machine work what were all the procuder's you were talking about.
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01-04-2004, 01:05 AM | #11 |
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thats including parts I was including bore/hone 125.00.. balance 125.00.. tank/cam bearings and freeze plugs55.00..pistons 100.00..crank 150.00..flex plate 50.00..balancer 50.00
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It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA |
01-04-2004, 05:09 PM | #12 |
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I prob wouldnt get these items balacned because I am only going to wind it up to 5000 rpm at the most, and not that often: pistons 100.00..crank and rods.
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01-04-2004, 05:29 PM | #13 |
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Location: Carmichael, California
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if your not going to balance it, don`t build a stroker, even if your only going to go to 5000rpm. it`s cheap insurance to balance it and it isn`t that much more than a internally balanced motor. i know alot of people you ran 350`s that were not balanced and they ran fine but when you get into the heavy crank of the strokers(unless you get a lighter aftermarket one) swinging up tp 5k, you run a risk of knocking out bearings. my buddy had a 388 that wasn`t balanced and it never ran right, always giving him trouble. he finally sold it and bought as 350. these motors can be built on a budget but when you start skimpin` too much, your just throwing money away. shop around on the net or in the magazines to see who has the best deal. alot of places sell balanced rotating assemblys and the balance and flexplate,flywheel can be found pretty cheap.
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Anthony |
01-05-2004, 03:04 PM | #14 |
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01-05-2004, 05:20 PM | #15 |
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Hey man if you want a bad-ass motor that will produce some horsepower check out www.strokermotor.com they have all the stroker motors and stroker kits too!! that's where i got one of my motors!!
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01-05-2004, 08:56 PM | #16 |
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I recall an article in a magazine that related to the 383 stroker. I believe they used Summit parts and the amazing thing was the fuel mileage they managed to get. If I can find the magazine, I will provide some additional details. If I recall they had it in a Chevy 4x4 and were testing with and without a trailer. The figures were impressive. I thought seriously about doing it to my old Suburban as the mileage wasn't so hot. Motor was OK though so I never got it done before I swapped it for my 4Runner.
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