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08-29-2022, 10:51 PM | #1 |
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Replacing Rocker panels.
On a scale of 1 to 10, how difficult is it to remove the old and install new Rocker panels?
My cab corners are solid as is the floor, so the rockers are the only piece that need replaced. I’ve read before, that drilling out the spot welds, and the old should pop out. Then the new is welded back in place. Is there body seam sealer where the panels meet? Sounds easy but I’ve also seen and read about the misalignment horror stories. That’s my fear It’s been a while, but I’ve done body work, and can weld. I just don’t want to create a mess by attempting something beyond my abilities. Any tips/pointers/advice anyone can give me? |
08-29-2022, 11:13 PM | #2 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
My advice is to try to save as much of the original metal as possible which typically means sectioning out only the metal that needs to be replaced out of the replacement panel. Use butt welds when doing this type of repair.
If the majority of the rocker is bad to the spot welds or around the top into the floor then probably just replace the whole thing. Cut out original spot welds with spot weld cutter. Keep the doors on if at all possible and if you do replace the whole rocker use screws to hold it into place so you can check door gap alignment prior to welding. Check gaps often before burning it in for good. I've never braced a cab for rockers but others have so can't say what's right there. |
08-30-2022, 08:17 AM | #3 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Willowrun has given you excellent advice about saving as much original as possible. The reproduction rocker panels are not perfect. Back in the day if you got GM rockers they were a direct replacement and were shaped nearly 100% correct. If you can use the repro panels to cut pieces out of and section them in, you'll be better off.
I had to pie cut and section to get the reproduction to line up. Then I still ended up with some odd concavity in the door sill area on one side. That I ended up flattening out with filler. Yes, you will need to seam seal along the edges in the door jamb to seal them up. Post a picture of what you are working with? |
08-30-2022, 09:14 AM | #4 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Save as much of the original as possible . It can be more difficult but the end results are worth it . This is the truck I’m doing now the rockers weren’t too bad so I saved most of the original . Even though I’ve been doing body work since the 70s this guy showed me a lot of different techniques like cutting the butt weld as you go so the panel doesn’t warp .
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TCR_2TFL_e0
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08-30-2022, 09:57 AM | #5 | |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
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08-30-2022, 10:47 AM | #6 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
In the closeup you can see the gap as I welded and cut when I made the patch there was a only like a eighth of an inch overlap so really very little fell into the rocker . The cutoff I fished out through the hole in the front of the rocker with a magnet and needle nose pliers . There was also a hole on the inside rocker that needed fixing so I had access in two spots
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Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary. |
08-30-2022, 01:01 PM | #7 | |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
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08-30-2022, 02:41 PM | #8 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
All I can say is be prepared for more rust underneath than you originally thought. Rust never sleeps, so usually the inner rocker, lower "A" pillar and side panel need to be replaced too.
Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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08-30-2022, 02:51 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
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08-31-2022, 11:44 AM | #10 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Thank y’all for all the insight.
After reading these, I think I’m not going to “Cut the whole old ones out”. The spots on my originals are really quite small, and I’ve often thought about doing what is suggested. My driver side has two hole about the size of a Quarter and a Nickel, and the passenger side is about as wide but about 5-6 inches long I have new Inners and Outters both sides, I’ll not have to “Custom Fab” or do any fancy bending to “Make them fit”. In the end, seeing these responses and advice leaves me feeling better about fixing it myself |
08-31-2022, 06:50 PM | #11 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
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Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary. |
08-31-2022, 08:13 PM | #12 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
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09-05-2022, 07:17 PM | #13 | |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Quote:
Today I took a scraper to the Rockers today. I pulled the sill plates and rubber seal to actually get a look at what needs replacing. It’s actually not as much rust as I was expecting. I was pleased with the condition of the floor panel and that I don have to repair the inner rockers. Another thing I did today was to pull my tailgate off to see how much repair is needed on it. Glad to find out that there’s only about a dozen little holes, none of them larger than a pencil eraser, and I can fill them with my MIG Welder. |
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09-05-2022, 07:26 PM | #14 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Additional Question on patching my Rockers.
I want to Butt Weld the patches in, so that there’s minimal body work to finish them. Is it best to measure out and cut the patch, then cut the rust are out to fit the patch? I’ve got replacement Rockers that I’m going to use for patch material, so I won’t have to do any bending to get them to fit. |
09-05-2022, 08:44 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Quote:
You will have to do bending and tweaking on the patch panels they aren’t exact to the OEM panels
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Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary. |
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09-07-2022, 09:03 PM | #16 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
So, I tore into both sides today, to get to the built up rust and crap that collected in there.
Tomorrow, I’m going to mark off the area and start measuring the stuff to be cut out. Another thing I did was grind out all the little Pinholes on the inside/lower panel of my tailgate. I’m self-teaching myself to MIG Weld, and fill in the holes. So far it’s going pretty well. I figure by the time I get the tailgate done, I’ll be skilled enough to tackle the Rocker Panel patching. |
09-07-2022, 10:42 PM | #17 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Here’s the Work on my tailgate completed I’ll send update pictures on the Rockers as I go. |
04-16-2023, 02:38 AM | #18 |
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Location: Whitley bay UK
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Hey custom, how did you get on with the rockers? They're on my list of jobs so be interesting to see how you got on. Cheers
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04-16-2023, 08:07 AM | #19 |
68 C10 Longbed
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Naples, Florida
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
I had to do mine. I’ve restored plenty of Chevrolet muscle cars and I must say this was one of the most time consuming and difficult. More time will be spent fitting and trimming than on most weld in jobs. |
04-16-2023, 08:12 AM | #20 |
68 C10 Longbed
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Naples, Florida
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
Another pic. |
04-16-2023, 09:01 AM | #21 |
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
cheers Ghackett, fills me full of confidence seeing as I'm new to body work, always stuck to mechanicals in the past. Maybe once I've had a go at these I'll go back to that way of thinking haha
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04-16-2023, 09:50 AM | #22 |
68 C10 Longbed
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Naples, Florida
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Re: Replacing Rocker panels.
You’re very welcome. Another tip — try or be sure to gingerly peel the skin away at the (4) bolt on side areas AND the seat belt bolt hole area. Once you get it peeled back to the frame and trimmed close then start fitting the inner first and then outer and then install those (5) bolts to help line it up. With the bolts tight and the door gap at the bottom correct then tack your patch in. (Inner first then outer) — Then open & close the door as many times as necessary to keep checking gaps then correct the weld dots.
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