47-55.1 Corroseal???

[vintovka]

Had a rusty swing chair and got some of this stuff called Corroseal off amazon. Worked well on the chair and started trying it on rusty metal like trailer hinges and such. We are like a stones throw from the Pacific Ocean and rust is super aggressive. I started to use it on the 54 where rust was forming despite careful prep, epoxy primer and rustoleum. Seems to work and turns rusty metal into a black primer. Its water based and any mistakes or misses just wipes off painted surfaces. Wish i knew about this stuff when i installed new unpainted parts like brake drums, calipers ect, Will try to post pics on my build site. Anyone experienced with this stuff.

[vintovka]

So nobody uses this stuff???

[franken]

Post the ingredients. Chances are it's a pricey weak phosphoric acid solution anyone can duplicate with concrete etch from the home store, for far less money. Don't get that stuff on concrete BTW.
Underneath you'll find the same rust that was there before if you use some sandpaper on it.
Unless you soak (or bathe it over time with a pump) the part in the solution to remove all the rust (proven by sanding the part to bare metal), you're just converting a top layer of rust and doing nothing to the real issue. Painting over it will result in a poor result after a few years in left exposed to air.

Sorry, but I researched rust fixes years ago and foud that most claims are BS... If you want to remove rust, remove it--don't cover it up. Or, prove the claims with sandpaper and zero rust beneath the black.

[vintovka]

Not sure about it. Seems to work so far. Turns concrete black and supposedly turns rust to something called magnetite.

Can't find contents but heres a data sheet on it . Maybe you can decipher?

https://interchem.co.tt/wp-content/u...rimer-TDS1.pdf

[Hcb3200]

Like all products and tools its useful when used appropriately for the right job.
Its good for lite to medium surface rust and it is doing exactly that converting surface rust. if its heavy deep rust the correct method would be like others have said. grind/sand/blast down to bare metal. It has been around for a long time and used by many including myself. But you need to paint in a short amount of time. its a converter not a paint so unless you paint/cover after it has done its thing rust will return.

[vintovka]

seems to work. I painted the treated surfaces just now and will see how it fares after this winter.

Just of word of advice. I cannot believe how destructive rust is here near the coast. Was warned and now a believer. If i had to start my project over i would have treated and painted every part despite factory finish or lack thereof. IMHO regular chrome is waste of money especially stuff that's chromed over 'pot' metal. Even stainless needs to be good stuff as lesser quality stains and gets surface rust. With todays prices choose your materials carefully and keep up maintenance.

[1project2many]

That sounds very much like what folks in India go through during rainy season. Reading discussion groups there, they resort to coating their cars with diesel fuel / oil mix during monsoon to keep them from rusting.

[vintovka]

What alarms me is not surface rust but the rapid, deep destructive penetration into steel and iron. Atomized salt in the air and rain here is incredible. Seen 10 year old trailers look like what's left of a tank or field gun on Iwo Jima. From now on any exposed replacement part will get a coat of this stuff and then rustoleum. FWIW I think gloss outperforms semi-gloss and flat. BTW have you seen the price of oil based paint lately??? 200-300%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[vintovka]

I should add the 2x Rustoleum type spray paint is now $7/can up from 2 for 10 a week ago and 2 for 7 last year. Hopefully few will buy at this outrageous price and makers will note.

[1project2many]

BTW have you seen the price of oil based paint lately??? 200-300%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes. I am now using wrong colors to apply a base coat then applying the desired color last to save $$. I buy the wrong colors at a local surplus and discount store for cheap. I should probably stock up.

Here in NH we get really bad corrosion also. Maybe not as bad as what you see, but it's bad enough so that many 10 year old vehicles are rough. I drive a '99 Suburban that is rust free. It's such a rare thing to see here that folks come up and talk to me as if I'm driving a restored AD. Here are some used New Hampshire trucks for viewing pleasure:

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by vintovka

seems to work. I painted the treated surfaces just now and will see how it fares after this winter.

Just of word of advice. I cannot believe how destructive rust is here near the coast. Was warned and now a believer. If i had to start my project over i would have treated and painted every part despite factory finish or lack thereof. IMHO regular chrome is waste of money especially stuff that's chromed over 'pot' metal. Even stainless needs to be good stuff as lesser quality stains and gets surface rust. With todays prices choose your materials carefully and keep up maintenance.

I do this exact thing. I either paint it a desired color or I put a clear on it if I want to see the bare metal. After all the time spent getting rid of rust, I don’t want to see it again.
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[franken]

I've been posting about phosphoric acid and testing the results for years. Almost never get a response. $17 vs $106 a gallon. Also, the P-acid needs to be diluted so the price isn't accurate. This math problem isn't difficult.

https://www.amazon.com/Corroseal-Wat.../dp/B091V3XB6N

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klean-Strip...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[vintovka]

Tried the corroseal like i said on a rusty chair. I agree its expensive. It has stopped much of the rust on the 54 for now and i am waiting the 24 hours and repainting with oil based paint to be sure. I have seen Phosphoric eat steel as well as rust.