Electrical Update...

[r0lf-]

Well... I went ahead and swapped alternators with my 80 today, no go. The 80's put out just as much voltage as mine. Wich is a lousy 12 volts

So, I started making better grounds, checking wires, some other stuff. Still no go. I checked the terminals and bingo... They had some fuzzy things on em to keep from showing the corrosion. The guy who sold me this truck was pretty smart, its a great truck and all, he was just really good at covering up what was messed up.

So... heres a pic of how messed up the terminals were.


All bent up and mis-shaped. So I went ahead and swapped grounds with my 80, still no go.


Theres how corroded the power was, the ground was just like it. So I have to crawl under the truck and play around the headers to replace the power now, hopefully that will do it.

I checked the amp, im getting 14.4V to it, its a straight shot from the battery. So I know im losing power somewhere, I really hope the power should do the trick, I dont think the 80's power line is long enough, since its for an I6, I can try though.

Thanks for your guys' help on tracking down the problem.

[allthrtl]

Those "fuzzy things" are supposed to help prevent corrosion... You want to check the amperage coming out of the alternator, they all put out 12 volts....although at 3000rpm it should put out about between 13 and 15 volts, no higher no lower or it's toast....

[r0lf-]

yeah, I know what they are there for, but they obviosly didnt do their job. Sooo... why would my 80 be able to keep a solid 14V at idle and my 78 only 12? The voltage doesnt seem to be going up to 14 when I rev it up to 3000-4000 either. I did it with both alternators and it didnt seem to change, pretty much pegged at 12.7 or so the whole time.

I checked the batteries, mine was at 12.7 and my bros was 12.4. I really would like to have better voltage at idle, for my windows and stereo's sake. when I turn the truck on at accy position, I get something like 9 volts. I know thats low.

[Mike76251]

I always convert side posts to top posts and use Optima batteries 'cause they are sealed at the posts and don't cause corrosion on the terminals.

[r0lf-]

Well... I didnt have time today to do it, but do you guys think that replacing the positive will get me more volts? Does power everything rob that much power?

[crackajacka]

yea i like my optima battery mike im still using side post's for the ignition and thats it. everything else runs off the top post's

[allthrtl]

Something is amiss...neither alternator would put out more than 12v at the battery @ 3000rpm?? But, the alternator from the 80 is putting out 14v at the battery, at idle?

Even though the truck is loaded, it's not going to pull more power just sitting at idle with the A/C off, radio off and all other accys turned off. If the cables are really corroded, definately replace them, from what I can tell from the picture, it doesn't look like they are so bad that they really make much difference.

I'm a little concerned that with the engine off and the key in the accy position, your only getting 9v at the battery, that's too low. A good battery shouldn't drop below 9.6v at maximum load, cranking..... I would suggest cleaning the existing cable as good as you can and run the truck down to the local big box auto parts store and let them test the whole system.

HTH
Michael

[blink32]

Another recommendation, I'm assuming that red wire passing through your fender then hooking into your side post is to the amplifier on your stereo system? Regardless, you shouldn't have it screwed underneath your side post connections. Its just dumb to attempt to fit it under there and can affect the + connection to the rest of your truck. Your connections don't look bad at all to the battery but you need to move that aux power hookup to the top post to give the side post the best hookup. While your at it just leave that wire disconnected and then check voltage levels at the battery. Its easier to eliminate it since its not critical to your truck running.

And as michael said, get the whole system checked. Have you had your local auto parts store bench check the battery?

[Jim Molloy]

Have you checked the fusable links ?

Down by the starter there's two wires..they are a little fatter
and if you feel the they are kinda spongy.

Check on each side of them with a test light or voltmeter.

If they are blown(they are like a fuse) then the charging voltage
won't get to the battery.

If you take it somewhere ask them to check those first.
Everything else could be good and your battery won't charge
if the links are blown.

[r0lf-]

Well... yes about the amp wiring under the terminal, its dumb, but it works for now. Ive checked without it connected and its still getting crap for power. Ill have to take a look at those fusable links by the starter.

Will any place like autozone just test the electrical for free? Ive tested the battery with the voltometer and Im trying to test everything I can with it.

[crackajacka]

if ya figure out what it is and ya dont have to buy another battery or anything then go down and buy some marine top post connectors anything that connects to em sits on a screw with a wing nut holding it down

[r0lf-]

Well... it looks as if my gauge is just FUBAR'D I guess. Im getting about 12V with the truck off, as I should. Getting pretty much 14V when its running, and with the accy position, its hard to get a decent reading, but its pretty close to 12V once it evens out.

My voltometer doesnt lie I guess. Atleast I learned a bunch trying to fix it, too bad nothin was wrong. Thats another guage I need to fix, along with the spedometer. Oh well, another excuse for an autometer setup

I could still prolly use a new alternator, but Its nice to know its not urgent, It can wait until the money magically appears.

[allthrtl]

Well it's good to hear nothing was wrong after all....and ya learned something in the process...what could be better....