Ride change with modified front springs?

[samert111]

I want to lower my 68 C10 2" both front and rear using drop blocks in the rear and cutting 1 coil off the bottom of the front springs which I understand will drop the front approx 2". Will I need to replace replace the front shocks with shorter ones with just a 2" drop or the current ones will work OK?

What can I expect the ride to change mainly in the front? About the same as now or a bit stiffer?

I'm also changing all the front ball joints & tie rods so I'll need a front end alignment. Also considering at a front swaybar kit down the road a bit.

[72SB]

Most find a slightly "firmer" (read some say harsh) with cutting a coil as the spring rate increases due to shorter travel ability. Relative to a "truck feel" (read these C10s are not Cadillac's) it may be no big deal to you

your stock shocks will bottom out sooner so get a set of shorter ones.

The other 2 lowering options are either drop spindles or lowering springs but not sure if the later are made for C10's front springs

IMHO a front sway bar is a must

[CC69Rat]

Dropped spindles will give you so much better ride, especially doing the whole front end Spindles would be my suggestion.

For example - think of a diving board in a pool. The board is 12 ft long. 250lb man comes up, ..jumps, boing.. in the pool.

Now cut 2 ft off the board. Same guy,.. boing, in the pool.

Did the board flex more at 12ft or 10ft long? Coil Springs work the same way. It's just coiled up. It is just torsional rigidity.

I understand people cut coils all the time and I have too. But think about something else. The coils that are in the truck now (assuming the originals?) Have been in the truck for 50 years. A life of working, hauling stuff, and of course the weight of the truck. Over time the coils are going to sag. So realistically speaking your truck sits 1.5" or so lower now than it did from the factory.

The new drop spring option is always there too but new springs are measured against the factory height. So new springs vs new drop springs. A 2" drop spring is not going to give you a full net 2" drop over where you are now, considering that sag over time.

I guess the short version would be if you don't mind a more harsh ride than you have now, then by all means cut them. I'd just use a cutoff wheel to do it vs a torch.

If you put drop spindles on it, they won't work with most 15" wheels. If you have e questions let me know and I'll explain.

Drop shocks, and swaybar. Yes. Just my .02. Hope this helps.

[leftybass209]

I rode on cut coils for a few months before the drop spring and spindle swap. It is the most uncomfortable ride, and the wider your wheels, the bigger your potential issues. Dropped springs and or spindles would help the ride considerably.

If you insist on cutting or heating the coils, consistency and accuracy is key, and less is certainly more considering the original coils have built in 50 year old sag.

[samert111]

Thaks for the feedback.
I considered drop spindles but that would require a change to 5 lug wheels and a disc brake conversion which I really didn't want to do at this time. My current drum brakes are very effective, so I didn't see a need to convert to disc brakes now.
So I guess I'll try the cut springs and see how it how it rides and go from there.

[Richard]

Unless the shock mounting locations or bump stop locations are moved/changed stock length shocks work fine. The suspension stops compressing at the stops whether you have stock springs or shorter ones. With a mild drop shorter shocks can even worsen the ride by limiting droop. Not allowing the suspension to easily follow the terrain.

Little more on my experience on a dropped truck. My 94 was dropped 6" in the front, 8" in the back, drove it like that for many years. Front had 2.5" Belltech spindles and cut 2 drop Eibach springs. Dropped springs alter the camber curve and will increase the tire wear on the back side of tire. 15-20k on tires max..

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by samert111

Thaks for the feedback.
I considered drop spindles but that would require a change to 5 lug wheels and a disc brake conversion which I really didn't want to do at this time. My current drum brakes are very effective, so I didn't see a need to convert to disc brakes now.
So I guess I'll try the cut springs and see how it how it rides and go from there.

I'm in the same boat, not ready for all that. But they do make 2" front drop springs, so that's what I am going with. I would worry that if I didn't like the cut coils I'd be paying for two wheel alignments.

[1967-C10]

drop spindles, or regret you did not do drop spindles. your choice.
Drop spindles do not require hub or any changes.
with only a 2" drop you can probable get by with stock shocks.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Richard

Unless the shock mounting locations or bump stop locations are moved/changed stock length shocks work fine. The suspension stops compressing at the stops whether you have stock springs or shorter ones. With a mild drop shorter shocks can even worsen the ride by limiting droop. Not allowing the suspension to easily follow the terrain.

Little more on my experience on a dropped truck. My 94 was dropped 6" in the front, 8" in the back, drove it like that for many years. Front had 2.5" Belltech spindles and cut 2 drop Eibach springs. Dropped springs alter the camber curve and will increase the tire wear on the back side of tire. 15-20k on tires max..

Stock length shocks would work w/a single cut coil app. They'll function w/a slightly more aggressive spring drop as well but def won't be ideal. I agree that shorter 'drop' shocks are not the way to go on these trucks (or most vehicles) if they can be avoided. The longer the spring & shock combo, the better the ride quality usually is if/when things are matched.

While a shorter spring can impact things, from what I've learned over my years is the Camber curve is dictated by the a-arm pivot points, tie rod location & the spindle height. Shorter springs don't change those fixed points. What alignment specs were used?

Originally Posted by 1967-C10

drop spindles, or regret you did not do drop spindles. your choice.
Drop spindles do not require hub or any changes.
with only a 2" drop you can probable get by with stock shocks.

Drop spindles DO require changes if your truck is currently equipped w/drum brakes (which the OP indicated he has).

Drop spindles are effective for lowering but can cause issues w/15" dia wheels. The wheel back-spacing/offset is what impacts interference. Minor trimming mods @ the lower a-arm lip/gutter are a typical correction but there can still be issues w/some uncommon set-ups.

My experience is trimming a single coil off of a stock spring yields decent drop (~2" from current height) w/o altering the spring rate significantly (10-15% change from what I read back in the day). I would not cut more than a single coil from a C10 front spring. If more drop is desired, a shorter, higher rate spring should be used or going the bolt-on/drop spindle route as the next progressive step in the chain of mods.

[72c20customcamper]

I dropped my Anniversary with 3 inch springs stock shocks and I cut a little off the bumper stops never bottomed out the shock . I want it a little lower so I’m thinking of 2 inch spring and 2 inch spindles . Running 16 inch rims

[Richard]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Stock length shocks would work w/a single cut coil app. They'll function w/a slightly more aggressive spring drop as well but def won't be ideal. I agree that shorter 'drop' shocks are not the way to go on these trucks (or most vehicles) if they can be avoided. The longer the spring & shock combo, the better the ride quality usually is if/when things are matched.

While a shorter spring can impact things, from what I've learned over my years is the Camber curve is dictated by the a-arm pivot points, tie rod location & the spindle height. Shorter springs don't change those fixed points. What alignment specs were used?




Drop spindles DO require changes if your truck is currently equipped w/drum brakes (which the OP indicated he has).

Drop spindles are effective for lowering but can cause issues w/15" dia wheels. The wheel back-spacing/offset is what impacts interference. Minor trimming mods @ the lower a-arm lip/gutter are a typical correction but there can still be issues w/some uncommon set-ups.

My experience is trimming a single coil off of a stock spring yields decent drop (~2" from current height) w/o altering the spring rate significantly (10-15% change from what I read back in the day). I would not cut more than a single coil from a C10 front spring. If more drop is desired, a shorter, higher rate spring should be used or going the bolt-on/drop spindle route as the next progressive step in the chain of mods.

Yes, shorter coils do not change the actual camber curve. But the static position of arms are higher, deeper into the cycle with shorter springs. This causes a quicker/more aggressive change in negative camber even with correct alignment. Ultimately causing increased inner tire wear. This cannot be avoided with a stock suspension with shorter coils.
Just deal with it for the lower stance. I did for the time I had my truck lowered. My alignment specs were close to stock with slightly more aggressive caster.

Not sure why people cannot get past the stock length shock issue. The truck bottoms out the same stock, lowered or lifted unless that position is modified. Even venders here have commented.

[kaycee]

I have no issues with my front coils cut ,took 1 ring off and it lowered 2" and I replaced rear spring with TJ jeep springs that lowered it 4". Rides great did fabricate shock mounts to work, there is a thread on here that shows how to make your shock mounts . Look down in the tech forums they are easy to make and install with some basic tools. Allso added a 1 1/2" sway bar all poly bushings on front end rebuild truck rides and corners like its on rails