How can I get 1.5" of lift in the front? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Destructo · 01-05-2004, 01:32 AM

I'm installing a 4" lift on my 85 K10 shortbed and want to add another 1.5" of lift on top of that for 5.5" of lift or would go with 6" total but want to keep blocks to a minimum. I was going to go with 1.5" lift shackles in front and 1.5" blocks in the back, but was told shackles usually only lift half of what they claim, so I emailed company to ask them the details. But if they will only lift my truck 3/4" how can I get the other 3/4"?

Something I thought of was zero rates up front with the ORD shackles with I believe are 1" longer and give 1/2" lift right? And then I could run the 1 1/2" blocks in back.

Scrub · 01-05-2004, 02:21 AM

Hmm.
It sounds like you have the right idea but, from what I have seen, you might want to get it done with the 4 inch lift first and then fine tune it. My buddy did a lift and the back was lower than the front by about 1.5 inches. He had to buy blocks. The only reason I say this is you might find that your want 2 inch blocks or something other than the 1.5 blocks you just bought and now have no use for.

Maybe don't even tighten up the bolts, but get it on the ground with the tires on and take a peek.

Just a thought, good luck

Destructo · 01-05-2004, 02:34 AM

Yeah, i'll probably install the 4" kit first and drive it a little bit to make sure its going to sit level like you said. I'm going with all new springs though and their the same brand so I shouldn't have too much trouble, but ya never know.

**JIMs70GMC** · 01-05-2004, 07:05 AM

I have the ord shackles now and unless they changed something they are only 1/2" longer thus 1/4" lift. You could add a leaf but that would stiffen the front up.

Scrub · 01-05-2004, 12:26 PM

My buddy used all, brand new springs also. Ditto, Ya never know

**Yukon Jack** · 01-05-2004, 02:05 PM

The Zero Rate will give you a full 1" of lift and it is center bolted so should work. I had something like the Zero Rate made for me by a buddy but I had him angle them slight like a degree shim. When I pulled them to put on different springs one of the center bolt heads was bending which kind of bothered me.

Which brand spring are you going with? If you get the 4" Ez-ride Tuff Country front springs and add their extra leaf which makes the spring pack actually their HD spring pack, you actually gain right at 1" of extra length due to that extra spring's thickness and how it adds to the curve of the existing spring pack.

Destructo · 01-05-2004, 03:59 PM

I'm using rough country 4" springs. Could I use angle shims to help re-correct the pinion angle problems that a longer shackle would give me?

alf4444 · 01-06-2004, 12:18 PM

This may be a dumb question but why not just buy 6" springs?

Destructo · 01-06-2004, 12:19 PM

Because I already bought the 4" springs.

alf4444 · 01-06-2004, 12:20 PM

than try zero rates and shackles. Hope you aren't wheeling it too hard though. I hope you got a good deal on the 4" springs, generally 6" springs aren't too much more expensive.

Destructo · 01-06-2004, 12:41 PM

I was planning on just going with a 4" lift at first but am now thinking I want a little bit more to make sure the 35's will clear. I do wheel it somewhat hard but I don't think an extra 1.5" is going to be a problem. I may get the HD ORD shackles which are 1/2" longer and then fab a new spring hanger in the front to be a 1/4" longer which will bring my caster back to normal and give me the 1/2" I want on top of the zero rates.

01-05-2004, 01:32 AM	#1
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	How can I get 1.5" of lift in the front? I'm installing a 4" lift on my 85 K10 shortbed and want to add another 1.5" of lift on top of that for 5.5" of lift or would go with 6" total but want to keep blocks to a minimum. I was going to go with 1.5" lift shackles in front and 1.5" blocks in the back, but was told shackles usually only lift half of what they claim, so I emailed company to ask them the details. But if they will only lift my truck 3/4" how can I get the other 3/4"? Something I thought of was zero rates up front with the ORD shackles with I believe are 1" longer and give 1/2" lift right? And then I could run the 1 1/2" blocks in back. Last edited by Destructo; 01-05-2004 at 01:37 AM.

01-05-2004, 02:21 AM	#2
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	Hmm. It sounds like you have the right idea but, from what I have seen, you might want to get it done with the 4 inch lift first and then fine tune it. My buddy did a lift and the back was lower than the front by about 1.5 inches. He had to buy blocks. The only reason I say this is you might find that your want 2 inch blocks or something other than the 1.5 blocks you just bought and now have no use for. Maybe don't even tighten up the bolts, but get it on the ground with the tires on and take a peek. Just a thought, good luck __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

01-05-2004, 07:05 AM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I have the ord shackles now and unless they changed something they are only 1/2" longer thus 1/4" lift. You could add a leaf but that would stiffen the front up. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

01-05-2004, 12:26 PM	#5
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	My buddy used all, brand new springs also. Ditto, Ya never know __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

01-05-2004, 02:05 PM	#6
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	The Zero Rate will give you a full 1" of lift and it is center bolted so should work. I had something like the Zero Rate made for me by a buddy but I had him angle them slight like a degree shim. When I pulled them to put on different springs one of the center bolt heads was bending which kind of bothered me. Which brand spring are you going with? If you get the 4" Ez-ride Tuff Country front springs and add their extra leaf which makes the spring pack actually their HD spring pack, you actually gain right at 1" of extra length due to that extra spring's thickness and how it adds to the curve of the existing spring pack. __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

01-05-2004, 02:34 AM	#3
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	Yeah, i'll probably install the 4" kit first and drive it a little bit to make sure its going to sit level like you said. I'm going with all new springs though and their the same brand so I shouldn't have too much trouble, but ya never know.

01-05-2004, 03:59 PM	#7
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	I'm using rough country 4" springs. Could I use angle shims to help re-correct the pinion angle problems that a longer shackle would give me?

01-06-2004, 12:18 PM	#8
alf4444 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: taylorsville, UT Posts: 778	This may be a dumb question but why not just buy 6" springs? __________________ 2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com

01-06-2004, 12:19 PM	#9
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	Because I already bought the 4" springs.

01-06-2004, 12:20 PM	#10
alf4444 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: taylorsville, UT Posts: 778	than try zero rates and shackles. Hope you aren't wheeling it too hard though. I hope you got a good deal on the 4" springs, generally 6" springs aren't too much more expensive. __________________ 2011 CCSB GMC 2500HD DMAX 73 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 96 Chevy 1500 STD Cab Shortbed Z71 Owner of WickedWolfRC.com

01-06-2004, 12:41 PM	#11
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	I was planning on just going with a 4" lift at first but am now thinking I want a little bit more to make sure the 35's will clear. I do wheel it somewhat hard but I don't think an extra 1.5" is going to be a problem. I may get the HD ORD shackles which are 1/2" longer and then fab a new spring hanger in the front to be a 1/4" longer which will bring my caster back to normal and give me the 1/2" I want on top of the zero rates.



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