Trailing arm crossmember with No Limit Arms

[biketopia]

I'm in the process of starting the install of my full No Limit Engineering wide ride kit. I'm working from rear to front currently. The rear kit https://nolimit.net/store/63-72-C-10...stem-p63365097 comes with new mounts for the trailing arms. My question is has anyone used a different trailing arm crossmember that has provisions for exhaust to go through it? I called No Limit and they couldn't confirm if any would or would not work with their kit. I don't see why one of these wouldn't work, but was hoping maybe someone has gone down this road before.

https://tinworksfabrication.com/prod...m-crossmember/

[FamilyTruckster65]

I have the Tinworks crossmember. The rear face of the crossmember is flat and his mounts are angled for the trailing arm.

So it has been awhile, bear with my memory. If the Nolimit brackets for the trailing arms are made for the stock cross member is the stock crossmember angled where the original brackets rivet on?

If so the Nolimit brackets will not be angled themselves and if bolted to a flat face will not have the correct angle for the trailing arms.

Hopefully the Nolimit trailing arm joints would fit into the Tinworks bracket.

Clear as mud, right?

[biketopia]

I'm in the garage now and just snapped these pics. Also read on the tin works site that they sell just the trailing arm brackets &they look similar to the no limit ones, just a bunchmore adjustments. Also open to other crossmembers, I just kinda like tin works stuff and might order some other things if I go with their crossmember.

[SCOTI]

My bet is the spacing for the front T/A mount (front/bushed part of the actual arm where the bolt goes through) is the same.

The physical brackets on the aftermarket x-member vs a stock x-member are different as pointed out. Most of the aftermarket x-members are flat (w/angled bracket) where the OE x-member was @ an angle (w/a straight bracket). That being said, as long as that front mount is the same dimension to fit within the bracket, any aftermarket x-member should work.

Also, an FYI for those that might not know... There are bolt-on exhaust pass through kits for OE x-members as well. This is one of the examples:
https://www.holley.com/products/exha.../parts/ECOB072

[LS short box]

On my 68 C10 I ran my exhaust thru the stock TA crossmember. I bought a 2 pieces of 1/4" flat stock 5"? square. I hole sawed a 4" hole in both and welded them to the TA cross member.
Another thing to look out for is drive shaft clearance. My 68 was lowered 4/6. With my engine combo (LS6/T56) the drive shaft shop said I needed a 3" drive shaft. When I installed the the drive shaft it was close to the TA opening at the top. I cut away some of the opening and then I welded some 1/4" material to the top of the TA crossmember.

[biketopia]

Thanks guys, was not aware there were bolt in solutions. Although not a sexy, is a cheaper option. I guess I could just fabricate the same thing pretty easily. The driveshaft consideration is something too. I'm a long bed truck and will have a built 427 th350 550hp combo in it.

[LS short box]

Just one more thing. I fabbed two supports the ran from the TA cross member to the trans cross member. I think I used 1 1/2" round stock. Welded flat plates to each ends and bolted them up. Sorry no pics.

[Joyridin]

I used the No Limit rear trailing arm kit, but I got a piece of 4" steel sewer pipe and sawed off 2 pieces about 3/8" wide. I just cut round holes int he crossmember and welded them in place. Now you can easily put a 3" exhaust through the holes.

Did you get their front end kit also?

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

I used the No Limit rear trailing arm kit, but I got a piece of 4" steel sewer pipe and sawed off 2 pieces about 3/8" wide. I just cut round holes int he crossmember and welded them in place. Now you can easily put a 3" exhaust through the holes.

Did you get their front end kit also?

That's a good idea also. I'm going to see what kind of scrap I have laying around and do what you did or similar to the holley set up depending on how ambitious I get next week.

Yes, I got the their whole kit, the wide ride crossmember, rack & pinion, sway bar, a arms, spindles, coil overs, trailing arm kit etc.

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by biketopia

That's a good idea also. I'm going to see what kind of scrap I have laying around and do what you did or similar to the holley set up depending on how ambitious I get next week.

Yes, I got the their whole kit, the wide ride crossmember, rack & pinion, sway bar, a arms, spindles, coil overs, trailing arm kit etc.

Ok. I am not sure if anybody else had a problem, but they must have some problems because they sent me repair parts free, but the bushings on my lower front control arms both times did not make it past 1500 miles. Both times, the alignment shop couldn't align the truck because there was too much play in the lower bushings. I had new ones made out of D75 Polyurethane. Not Delrin. They are holding up well now. Just an FYI. I was a PITA to rip everything apart and replace them.
https://www.grainger.com/category/ra...&filters=attrs

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

Ok. I am not sure if anybody else had a problem, but they must have some problems because they sent me repair parts free, but the bushings on my lower front control arms both times did not make it past 1500 miles. Both times, the alignment shop couldn't align the truck because there was too much play in the lower bushings. I had new ones made out of D75 Polyurethane. Not Delrin. They are holding up well now. Just an FYI. I was a PITA to rip everything apart and replace them.
https://www.grainger.com/category/ra...&filters=attrs

Thanks for the heads up! When did you buy your kit &have the failure? I'll look into your solution and see about making some up ahead of install.

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by biketopia

Thanks for the heads up! When did you buy your kit &have the failure? I'll look into your solution and see about making some up ahead of install.

I got it somewhere around December or January? I started driving the truck in June. The bushing are red Energy Suspension. Tina would not give me a part number, but I found them on ES website. You can only buy them in bulk, so they can't be real good. It looks like NL makes their own metal sleeve. They wore out where the sleeve goes through the bushing. They also do not have any slots for lubricant to get through the bushing between the sleeve and bushing. On the second set, I added 4 slots hoping that was the issue. I used the special grease for polyurethane bushings, but it didn't make a whole lot of difference.

Here is the bushing with dimensions. These show grease slots, but mine had none. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/bulk-2557

[kev2809]

they sell those exhaust cutouts everywhere too. I just ordered a cheap set for my stock crossmember, believe they were like 60 bucks off Amazon. pro performance has a nice set and so does brothers. these all bolt in but still need a 4" hole drilled out obviously.

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by kev2809

they sell those exhaust cutouts everywhere too. I just ordered a cheap set for my stock crossmember, believe they were like 60 bucks off Amazon. pro performance has a nice set and so does brothers. these all bolt in but still need a 4" hole drilled out obviously.

Thanks, I'll do some looking today

Originally Posted by Joyridin

I got it somewhere around December or January? I started driving the truck in June. The bushing are red Energy Suspension. Tina would not give me a part number, but I found them on ES website. You can only buy them in bulk, so they can't be real good. It looks like NL makes their own metal sleeve. They wore out where the sleeve goes through the bushing. They also do not have any slots for lubricant to get through the bushing between the sleeve and bushing. On the second set, I added 4 slots hoping that was the issue. I used the special grease for polyurethane bushings, but it didn't make a whole lot of difference.

Here is the bushing with dimensions. These show grease slots, but mine had none. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/bulk-2557

Interesting, thanks for the info. I bought my kit in November of 2020 when I sold my house and everything has been on the shelf since then. Finally getting some time to fiddle with the truck. I'll pull the box off the shelf and see what it looks like though and keep this info if I need to make up something before install.

[Jrainman]

Originally Posted by biketopia

Thanks, I'll do some looking today



Interesting, thanks for the info. I bought my kit in November of 2020 when I sold my house and everything has been on the shelf since then. Finally getting some time to fiddle with the truck. I'll pull the box off the shelf and see what it looks like though and keep this info if I need to make up something before install.

I also have a the trailing arm kit that I has been sitting on the shelf for my next project ,I believe you can use any after market crossmember the ones with the multiple hole for anti squat adjustment but there must be a oem stock arrangement in the configuration ,because I believe the kit was designed for the stock crossmember oem configuration on the placement of the brackets. Also a heads up I had other kits from NL that I am using rite now that were sitting on the shelf ,the kit was short a few parts and when I called they would not make good on the missing parts so I had to purchase those missing parts again, the funny thing was, just a few weeks prior I started to install a ride tech kit on this same project I had on the shelf for 3 years that were missing parts and they made good on them ,they were able to tell I was indeed shorted those parts by the shipping weight label . and I was going to buy the NL IFS kit for that up comming project but I've changed my mind .

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by biketopia

I'm in the garage now and just snapped these pics. Also read on the tin works site that they sell just the trailing arm brackets &they look similar to the no limit ones, just a bunchmore adjustments. Also open to other crossmembers, I just kinda like tin works stuff and might order some other things if I go with their crossmember.

I just drilled out the rivets and turned my stock brackets upside down. That kept the stock angles closer to stock when I lowered my truck. It doesn't seem to be much different than the aftermarket one when you compare the angles.
I also used a hole saw to make the two holes for the exhaust in the cross-member. It was a real PITA. I had to weld in a small extension for the hole saw center as it was in an area with no steel. If I had to do it again I would use a torch. Getting a drill that goes slow enough for such a large hole-saw is almost impossible.
Cheers.

[Jrainman]

agree its a lot of surface area to cut at once , I find a faster and easier cut when using a large diameter hole saw is that after I mark it , I use a 1/4 '' drill bit and drill as many 1/4'' holes as I can on my mark line ,it makes for a lot less cutting and provides area for the shavings to move out of the way of the cutting edge of the hole saw

[kev2809]

its dangerous too lol. other than the annoying welding a flat piece in the middle to hold the drill bit, you have to take your time. that thing gets hung up and can cause some damage. if you want to spend a little more, i think brothers kit somes with a template that bolts to the stock crossmember using an existing bolt. the video is on their youtube channel.

[biketopia]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I was going to drill out and weld my own flanges and pass throughs in for the exhaust but ended up ordering a tin works cross member. Once it gets here I'll compare and contrast and post up how it works. Jrainman sorry to hear NL wouldn't make good on whatever it was you were missing. I've talked to them numerous times before and during this purchase and install and they have been nothing but helpful. Even talked to Rob a few weeks back when I ran into a slight hang up that turned into me over thinking something.

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I just drilled out the rivets and turned my stock brackets upside down. That kept the stock angles closer to stock when I lowered my truck. It doesn't seem to be much different than the aftermarket one when you compare the angles.
I also used a hole saw to make the two holes for the exhaust in the cross-member. It was a real PITA. I had to weld in a small extension for the hole saw center as it was in an area with no steel. If I had to do it again I would use a torch. Getting a drill that goes slow enough for such a large hole-saw is almost impossible.
Cheers.

I used a torch. I used the ID of the 4" pipe and tack welded it in place, then used the ID as a template. It took a few minutes with a die grinder to open them up the rest of the way, but it came out nice.

[Accelo]

Some great ideas. I admit you have to be stubborn just to do the hole saw thing. Cutting the section out with a torch is easiest. With out a torch adding the holes around the perimeter is a great idea. Wish I would have thought of that. If you do use a hole saw getting it to run slow it your best bet. You will ruin the hole saw if you don't. Then there is the safety aspect, a drill large enough to g slow is a hazard to life and limb if you don't have a plan to deal with the torque. Back to the torch if you have one.
Cheers.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Some great ideas. I admit you have to be stubborn just to do the hole saw thing. Cutting the section out with a torch is easiest. With out a torch adding the holes around the perimeter is a great idea. Wish I would have thought of that. If you do use a hole saw getting it to run slow it your best bet. You will ruin the hole saw if you don't. Then there is the safety aspect, a drill large enough to g slow is a hazard to life and limb if you don't have a plan to deal with the torque. Back to the torch if you have one.
Cheers.

Sawsall/reciprocating saw ftw (for those w/o a torch or plasma).

It will make the rough cut easier & then it's just trimming to final ID.