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Old 01-06-2004, 08:45 PM   #1
cochino12
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worth the $$ for bags?

I currently have about a 5/6 drop and would like it just a little bit lower. I would also like the ability to raise and lower the truck for driveability. With a basic weld in setup in the rear how low would my truck get without having to do the crossmember and a whole lot of other mods? I was looking at the parts list that timspeed put together Timspeeds parts list and it is definitly within my budget but how low will that get me just doing that? I hope this makes sense
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Old 01-07-2004, 12:58 AM   #2
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That was with some 15x9's with 275/60/15's. It sat on the fenders up front and was about 1/4" of an inch from laying arm. Out back has a step notch and it was sitting on my raised fenders too. Would be about an inch lower too.
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:25 AM   #3
N2TRUX
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I know you have seen it a gazillion times, but here's mine. It doesn't have a 4 link though...
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Articles-

"Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab

"Elwood" the77_Remix

85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett"

"Refining Sierra"

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Old 01-07-2004, 01:51 AM   #4
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is your truck totally aired out in that pic n2trux? fiveeight looks a bit lower, what is the o.d. of your tires n2trux? They both look bad a$$ though. My tires are about 26.5" tall would I be sitting that low? You both have the same kind of setup that I am looking at right? I know you guys have answered a lot of bag questions and a lot of them are the same. I really do appreciate the help.
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Old 01-07-2004, 02:24 AM   #5
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No inner front fenders and a Belltech C-notch. My entire setup has since been redone, including the addition of a step notch.



I would recommend inner fenders though (My engine bay is always dirty) and a 5" notch. Anything over 5" is worthless w/ a one piece driveshaft.
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Old 01-07-2004, 12:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaggedC10
No inner front fenders and a Belltech C-notch. My entire setup has since been redone, including the addition of a step notch.


I would recommend inner fenders though (My engine bay is always dirty) and a 5" notch. Anything over 5" is worthless w/ a one piece driveshaft.
I think that is the info I was looking for. How tall are the tires in the pic? do you remember how many inches your bumper was from the ground?
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That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

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Old 01-07-2004, 05:14 PM   #7
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Mine would have laid out a lot more if it didn't touch on the crossover pipe and the tranny crossmember as well.

I also agree about the notch, I still had about 2" left in the notch once it sat on the fenders out back.
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Old 01-07-2004, 10:52 PM   #8
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cochino12, Yes mine is all out in that pic. The other guys trucks (and yours) will be lower than mine. I went a very conservative route with my set-up. It is C-notched, but it is not "step" notched. We got as much as we could without cutting the bed. I could probably get another inch in the rear, but it would set lower than the front if I did. That ain't gonna happen on my truck.

I could get a bit more out of the front too, but I have the bump stops set so it will still roll when aired out. I wanted to be able to move the truck in the event of a system failure. That came in very handy the first road trip too. I blew an air line on my way to TX Heatwave. I was able to drive it with no air in the front corner far enough to get where I could repair it.

My front tires are 245/40/20's (27.71") and the rear has 295/40/20's (29.29").

Here's a side view...
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Old 01-07-2004, 11:14 PM   #9
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by N2TRUX
[B]cochino12, It is C-notched, but it is not "step" notched.

I could get a bit more out of the front too, but I have the bump stops set so it will still roll when aired out. I wanted to be able to move the truck in the event of a system failure.
My front tires are 245/40/20's (27.71") and the rear has 295/40/20's (29.29").


I know what a c-notch is but whats a step? do you have the factory bumpstop? that a good idea, what about using the flat ones? Did you do new inner fenders? crossmember? sorry for all the ?'s I just want to know how low I can get by doing or not doing different things. Does anything need to be done with the steering? anything I am forgetting?
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That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

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Old 01-08-2004, 12:08 AM   #10
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Don't woryy about asking questions. This is how you gain info without trial and error.
What I mean is my C-notch does not go above the frame. It's referred to in many ways such as step-notch, super c-notch, etc. It means that the notch is so deep that it is above the frame. This of course requires the bed to be cut out as well. Since I didn't want to cut the 77 up, I gave the orders for them to go as low as possible without having to cut the bed. You can see the results below.


My front is as simple as the rear. We removed the springs, and factory bump stops. Then they installed the bags and custom bump stops were built. When the system is aired out, I still have at least an inch before the tire rubs the fender liner. My fender liners are still stock.
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Old 01-08-2004, 01:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by cochino12


I think that is the info I was looking for. How tall are the tires in the pic? do you remember how many inches your bumper was from the ground?


Tires are 245/35/ZR20 at each corner. I'm not sure about the bumper height though.
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Old 01-08-2004, 01:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by N2TRUX
Since I didn't want to cut the 77 up, I gave the orders for them to go as low as possible without having to cut the bed. You can see the results below.

My front is as simple as the rear. We removed the springs, and factory bump stops. Then they installed the bags and custom bump stops were built. When the system is aired out, I still have at least an inch before the tire rubs the fender liner. My fender liners are still stock.
so you didnt do the install on your own? How much should I expect to pay if I took it to somewhere to have done? I figured the front would be easy enough to do on my own?
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That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

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Old 01-08-2004, 01:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by cochino12


so you didnt do the install on your own? How much should I expect to pay if I took it to somewhere to have done? I figured the front would be easy enough to do on my own?


Are you using ART's Cool-Ride kit? Either way, these trucks are cake to bag up front.
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Old 01-08-2004, 02:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaggedC10


Are you using ART's Cool-Ride kit? Either way, these trucks are cake to bag up front.
yes thats the plan anyway. I cant weld so I wll probably take it somewhere to have the rear done. I would like to get a good idea of what it should cost.
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That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

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Old 01-08-2004, 02:12 AM   #15
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If you install the front kit, I would assume no more than $700-$1,000. That would include installing the compressor system too.
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Old 01-08-2004, 10:31 AM   #16
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Yes, I had mine done at Stoked Out Specialties. They are doing my Blazer as well.

If you installed your own static drop, you should have the skills and tools to do everything but the welding. The front is pretty straight forward. All it requires is some drilling.

Are you capable of wiring? If so, you should be able to wire the system, gauges, and compressor.

I didn't use the bolt in C-notch. As you can see from my pics, they made a C-notch and boxed the frame in too. I think BaggedC10 is right. If you do everything but weld in the 4 link the labor should be $1000 or less. What ever you do, make sure you get quality work done. Don't try to save money and compromise quality when it come to welding your suspension in...
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Old 01-08-2004, 11:12 AM   #17
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Make sure that you get a 4-way system.

If I had to do it all over again, I would put the money that I spent on airbags towards a complete 'vette suspension, but thats just me. Btw, I have a 2-way system.
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Old 01-08-2004, 02:42 PM   #18
cochino12
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Quote:
Originally posted by N2TRUX
If you installed your own static drop, you should have the skills and tools to do everything but the welding. The front is pretty straight forward. All it requires is some drilling.

Are you capable of wiring? If so, you should be able to wire the system, gauges, and compressor.

I think BaggedC10 is right. If you do everything but weld in the 4 link the labor should be $1000 or less. What ever you do, make sure you get quality work done. Don't try to save money and compromise quality when it come to welding your suspension in...
I did the drop now on my own so I think I will at least do the front, I guess I better start looking for a reputable company to do the rear for me now.
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That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

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