new truck /old truck motor break in ?

[HoneyBeeMan68]

So I was thinking out loud on my way to work, about my new blueprint motor getting made. And thinking about how I was going to brake in the motor like they say you should. Then my wife called and said she was going to get a new car. So long store short, this will be the 5th new car we've bought in 29 yrs, and We never have really broken in a motor like you would a create one. Am I the only one that just jumps in a new car/truck and just drives it?

[truckster]

What type of engine? Specifically, does your new engine have a roller cam? If so, break-in is similar to your wife's new car. Most manufacturers just say to keep it under 4000 to 4500 RPM for the first 1000 miles. In fact, I understand the software in new Corvettes won't let you unleash them until they've reached the specified break-in mileage.

[Already Gone]

I'm sure Blueprint engines will have break-in recommendations and they are usually tagged to the warranty parameters so I'd follow their guidelines.

[HO455]

Nothing to worry about these days with a new car. The OE's have the software engineered to prevent you from causing them warranty issues.

Follow their directions for initial use. If you do experience a major failure they will download the driving history of the vehicle and if they believe you abused the vehicle they will deny your warranty claim. In the early 2000's the software could only record several hundred miles of driving data but today most can record tens of thousands of miles.

[72SB]

OP, if your new BPE engine is a full hydraulic roller (read not flat tappet cam) than the only real breakin is just don't exceed 5k rpm for the first 500 mi. flat tappet then you do need to do the 20 min at 2krpm to bed the cam and lifters

new cars do have a breakin noted in owners manuals typically saying not to exceed 5k rpm and to not maintain same rpm for long periods. basically what any motor needs

I have a BPE also, great motor, and its a full roller but when I ordered it they mentioned "their" break in oil. I said to include it even though its a full roller so that in the event of a warranty claim we could omit that issue in discussions. Guess what, their break in oil (high zinc) is blue.

Given everyone of their engines is dyno run the typical "set the rings" procedure is already done.

[HoneyBeeMan68]

Thanks for your insight guys ! Yes my blueprint is a roller rocker, And I was going to take it easy with the rpms. I was just thinking some things we baby and some things we just go at full speed! And some things we just do. I also ordered the break in oil for the same thinking. all of blueprint motors get dyno.

[geezer#99]

I’ve read blueprint dyno’s their motors.
Are they doing yours?
If so no need for any special break in procedure.
Bolt it in and go.

[72SB]

OP, don't "baby" the motor, just drive normal and keep rpms under 5k for the first 500 mi. Then drive it like you stole it.

BPE makes a nice motor. Their Shop Tour video is pretty impressive. They design and build several of the assembly process machines. The ring install machine is trick. Several steps are robotic doing that part. Blocks are new, these are not "rebuilt" engines.

I would not hesitate buying another from them....have a link saved for the C10 wish list

[Steeveedee]

I watched that video. It's an impressive operation that they are running. I see they sold out of the 496 strokers and are now selling new 454s. I didn't really want the 496, and this new 454 looks pretty sweet. Guess I'll have to find a buyer for the original engine. I have no place (or interest) to keep it.

[dagnabbitt]

I love my Blueprint. The break in was just normal driving, grocery getting etc.

No high rpms, but don't baby it either.

I used straight 30 weight oil for the break in, as recommended. I would imagine that a new vehicle is shipped with some sort of break in oil or additives, too.

[sakustoms]

I put a BPE stroker in an S10 blazer I built for my son. I did the 15-20 minute at 2k rpm and used Valvoline racing oil with a Zinc additive. I also bought him enough for an oil change when the time comes. They suggest using a zinc additive all the time, or at least they did at the time.

[special-K]

As for your question in your original post, and any freshly built engine, I break them all in. Simple common sense. I think putting a fresh engine on a dyno is foolish, I'd never want an engine "broke-in" that way. I break-in my new vehicles, which have been very few. I break-in my rebuilds, too. I put a custom-built in-house S&S motor in my Harley 20 years ago. I ran it nice and calmly with no hard pulls, not run too long at a consistent RPM for 500 miles before having it dyno-tuned. That's how I've broken-in all my rebuilt engines, new and old. Some may feel that's not necessary, some say let'er rip and if somethings not right you'll find out. Well, I've taken it easy and found out a time or two something was not right and I was able to save the engine rather than hurt it over a minor deficiency. I figure it's better to break one in, even if not necessary than not, only to ruin some expensive work. Patience is a virtue

[joedoh]

i read an article that said the break in period on new cars made after about 1999 is to keep the speeds low in case the wheels or suspension parts didnt get tightened and fall off or fail prematurely and prevent lawsuits, not that the motors needed breaking in. the article said the break in of the engine was completed on the run-in before being installed and most engines were shipped as complete units to the final assembly plant.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by HoneyBeeMan68

Yes my blueprint is a roller rocker,

Rockers don't matter, cam/lifters do.
Most people who buy new cars just jump in and drive. I am not one of them. As for break in not having to do with the engine, if that was the case then all the owners manuals wouldnt tell you to alternate rpm's, don't go full throttle, don't tow etc for the first whatever miles. But the vast majority still do. I have piles of manuals at the dealership to confirm.

[whitedog76]

My wife bought a new Grand Cherokee recently. The owners manual was fairly non descript as far as maintenance goes. I scoured that owner's manual for engine break in and maintenance intervals. The only thing it really said was, "Do not go over 10,000 miles between oil changes." So yes, we just get in and drive. I took it in for it's first oil change on Saturday. BTW, it had 4500 miles.

On another note. When I still drove class 8 trucks. The manufacturer's recommendations were to only load the truck to 75% for the first 20,000 miles, don't rev over a certain RPM, etc... I can tell you that didn't ever happen. That $150,000 truck has to pay for itself. I can't say that the lifespan was ever really shortened on those trucks by putting them right to work.

[Palf70Step]

Some of the newer, especially performance, vehicles, are programmed to not allow you to rev it past certain ranges or do hard RPM runs until it finish a break in period (1K is wht I have seen). You would think they don't trust us to follow directions.

[special-K]

When I got my '92 GMC with 6.5TD/5spd truck I factory ordered I never went over 2k the first 500 miles. It didn't need to anyway. It had me thinking to continue never going over 2k forever. I wondered if it would run forever if I did. But... I have no dicapline for that! I ran it pretty hard plenty and I did get 335,000 out of it. Pretty good for a boat anchor, isn't it?

Maybe with vehicles lasting so much longer the car makers would like the engines to not last as long as they do. Maybe that's why they no longer advise a break-in period. I don't see anything different in the general dynamics involved to negate a break-in period would not be a smart thing to do now, as it was before

[theastronaut]

Cam/lifter break in is important right at start up, usually 20 min at 2500 rpm or similar. After that the rings need to be seated by being loaded under different conditions- acceleration at various rpm and load, and off throttle coasting at various rpm. If the cylinders are machine/honed round and the hone job is correct for the ring material then they should break in pretty quickly. Break in oil is designed to aid in this- you need an oil that allows some controlled metal to metal contact, otherwise the rings would never break in. Too much ZDDP is abrasive, so don't just dump in an additive unless you know how many PPM your base oil has and how much you're adding. After the rings are seated and the break in oil is out there is no reason to baby it.

[Getter-Done]

They have some info on their website.

Because I have been looking at these

We are often asked what oil should be used in our BluePrint crate engines and to help our customers, we have created a special break-in engine oil for all crate engines!

CATEGORY:
Break-in, Lubrication

ISSUE:
BluePrint engines arrive ready to install. Because all crate engines have been dyno tested, the original assembly lube has been washed from the bearing surfaces and replaced with engine oil. However, oil is drained for shipping, so when your BluePrint engine arrives, the bearing surfaces are dry.

ACTION:
BluePrint Engines strongly recommends pre-lubing all Chevy, Chrysler, Ford crate engines as well as ProSeries™ engines and shortblocks before initial start up.

The recommended way to pre-lube your new blueprint engine is to remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over for several seconds to build up oil pressure and distribute oil throughout the engine.

This break in oil can be used for the first 500 miles, during the break in of your new crate engine. It has been specially formulated with the following benefits to break in your new engine and get you started with all the proper additives to ensure a long engine life. The benefits of our break-in oil are:

Increases high-temp film strength, oil pressure and compression at all RPM ranges. Designed to reduce potential engine failure during the break-in period. Provides high-temp viscosity and anti-wear control. Protects bearings at initial startup and at higher speed and temperature. Recommended for all types of engines: including flat tappet and roller camshafts. Requires no additional additives.

If you wanted to source oil locally for your crate engine, we just want to make sure you are using a good quality oil – we typically recommend a 10W30. Also, if you are running a flat tappet camshaft please make sure you are also using a separate zinc additive, in addition to your oil. Refrain from using synthetic oil for the first 6,000 miles on all BluePrint crate engines.

Roller Camshaft Engines:
BluePrint Part #BPP710 or a 10W30, non-synthetic oil. A zinc additive, or break-in oils are not necessary, but can be used.

Flat Tappet Camshaft Engines: BluePrint Part #BPP710 or a 10W30 with a separate zinc additive. One example would be Lucas Oil part number #10063

APPLICATION:
All BluePrint Chevy crate engines
With proper installation, break-in and maintenance, your new high-performance BluePrint crate engine will give you years of trouble-free performance.

Inside the Installation Guide you’ll find the information and instructions you need for proper installation, break-in and maintenance. All are necessary to ensure your BluePrint engine performs the way it was designed. After installation, remember to activate your BluePrint Engines 30-Month/50,000-Mile Limited Warranty by completing and submitting your warranty registration form online.

[LS short box]

On my new stuff I just drive them. First oil change at 5000 miles to Mobil 1.
On engine builds I have the engine run on the engine dyno to confirm HP and break in the engine. And also check for leaks.
A number of years ago bought a new LS1. Put it in and pulled the 12 volt wire to the computer. Then cranked it over until I saw oil pressure. Ran like champ.