Advice needed on a-arm rebuild

[D-n-Tyke]

So we are rebuilding the upper and lower control arms on our C20, replacing both the ball joints and crossshafts in all the arms. Got the uppers put back together without to much issues. Torqued the 4 ball joint bolts to 15ft/lbs and the crossshaft bushings to 90ft/lbs.

Moved on to the lower control arms and that is where the issues started. Tried installing the new crossshaft to 100ft/lbs but the bushing isn't fully seating before hitting the 100ft/lbs. The bushing isn't even seating into the rubber bushing inside the arm. I tried unthreading bolt bushing and starting over with the same results. I reluctantly put the impact on yhem and see if I could get the threaded bushing to fully seat in the arm. Still no luck. I decided I probably stop and seek the advice of the board. Am I doing something wrong, anyone have this same issue?

I am using new geniune moog crossshafts.

The first 3 pictures are the lower arm, showing how far in I can get threaded bushing.
The 4th ahows how far I could get the threaded bushing i to the upper arms.

[Grumpy old man]

Stop , Take it apart , The zerk grease fittings go in last , Do you have a vise ? The caps have to be installed evenly , one turn on the left, then one turn on the right, etc do you have new lower U bolts to install the lowers ? if you don't have a large vise there is another way , This should help .

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Stop , Take it apart , The zerk grease fittings go in last , Do you have a vise ? The caps have to be installed evenly , one turn on the left, then one turn on the right, etc do you have new lower U bolts to install the lowers ? if you don't have a large vise there is another way , This should help .

Those were the steps I was following, 1 turn per side, trying to keep things even. Zerks aren't in the lowers. Zerks weren't installed in the uppers until the bushing were torqued.
I have a vise and can try that. I was just concerned that I am having to apply more than 100ft/lbs to the lower crossshafts to get rhem to keep going in.

[HO455]

ChevyMike's post in the link helped me get mine done.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=508095

[Steeveedee]

Pretty sure I had to use torque above the final torque spec to get my lower control arm bushings installed, but it's been years. But then, I was used to using slugging wrenches for final torque on steam line fasteners, in the Navy...and you don't send that pencil-armed recruit up there to do it.

[HO455]

Uhggggg! Slugging wrenches. Hard work and nothing else.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by HO455

Uhggggg! Slugging wrenches. Hard work and nothing else.

Bos'ns mates aren't the only sailors with forearms like Popeye!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Pretty sure I had to use torque above the final torque spec to get my lower control arm bushings installed, but it's been years. But then, I was used to using slugging wrenches for final torque on steam line fasteners, in the Navy...and you don't send that pencil-armed recruit up there to do it.

Seems to me the same, but only on the LH side.

I'm lost by the OP's 15 ft. lbs. for ball joints? The chart Grumpy provided should help, and he helped me to install mine. Good advise on the vise. Equal turns and even, with grease. If a bushing doesn't go on smoothly, start over again.

Use your original zerk fittings if possible, they're far superior than replacements.

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Seems to me the same, but only on the LH side.

I'm lost by the OP's 15 ft. lbs. for ball joints? The chart Grumpy provided should help, and he helped me to install mine. Good advise on the vise. Equal turns and even, with grease. If a bushing doesn't go on smoothly, start over again.

Use your original zerk fittings if possible, they're far superior than replacements.

15ft/lbs was for the 4 bolts that hold the new ball joint to the control arm (upper ball joint). They are the bolts that replaced the rivets that held on the original ball joint. 15ft/lbs is not the ball joint to spindle castle nut.

[Grumpy old man]

I had just blasted /primed and painted my control arm shafts and A-arms and I really didn't want to trash the paint using a vise or rolling them around on the garage floor . I explained how to install them without paint damage in this thead below starting on post 5 .

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=795425

[Grumpy old man]

Replace old worn out lower U bolts with these Dorman 13503 9/16 on a C 10 you just drill the lower shaft saddles with a 9/16 drill bit from the bottom .

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-1632-13503.aspx

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by D-n-Tyke

15ft/lbs was for the 4 bolts that hold the new ball joint to the control arm (upper ball joint). They are the bolts that replaced the rivets that held on the original ball joint. 15ft/lbs is not the ball joint to spindle castle nut.

Ah, got ya.