55.2-59 New from Minnesota

[1955 3100]

Hello everyone, I have been reading alot on here to get ready for my first try at getting my 55 3100 road worthy. I'm a total beginner but not afraid to try new things and like to do things myself when I can. My thoughts are to get it driveable first. Then lower the stance, do some body work. It will never be a show stopper but just want to have fun. It came with no engine or transmission in the truck but included a 350 and an automatic transmission that I need to install. My first question is what have people used for motor mounts on the stock frame for the 350? Thanks for any help.

[Getter-Done]

Welcome to the forum.

Looks like a good solid truck.

For more responds for your engine mounts question,
You could post over in this section of the forum in the link below.

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...splay.php?f=13

[1955 3100]

That link brings me back to where I posted. Should I ask in a new post? I'm older so I will make some mistakes here haha!

[Hcb3200]

Cart before the horse if you have not planned your build.
No engine. What type do you plan on putting in there? Old school Carb or LS pullout? You said you want to change the stance. Well depending on how you change your stance you may end up changing the driveline which the trans mount plays a big role in.
I would plan out the whole build then start from there. On what you can do to make it a driver and build as you go instead of a garage queen waiting to get dressed.

With the whole build in mind you can plan around the stance change so you make redos or short term purchases that will have to be changed to minimal.

Since you plan on moving things around then maybe a adjustable mounts are better for you than non adjustable. But if you know your build maybe cheaper non adjusables will work.

Just my thought from a guy who had a few more "short term" parts than he wanted.

[Rickysnickers]

Welcome! You are fine to ask that question here. There are several types you can use. Here are links to just a couple...

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...QaAksHEALw_wcB

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy...EaAqvpEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...4aAqmyEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...ruck/year/1955

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by Hcb3200

Cart before the horse if you have not planned your build.
No engine. What type do you plan on putting in there? Old school Carb or LS pullout? You said you want to change the stance. Well depending on how you change your stance you may end up changing the driveline which the trans mount plays a big role in.
I would plan out the whole build then start from there. On what you can do to make it a driver and build as you go instead of a garage queen waiting to get dressed.

With the whole build in mind you can plan around the stance change so you make redos or short term purchases that will have to be changed to minimal.

Since you plan on moving things around then maybe a adjustable mounts are better for you than non adjustable. But if you know your build maybe cheaper non adjusables will work.

Just my thought from a guy who had a few more "short term" parts than he wanted.

Sorry maybe I didn't word it clearly, I did get a 350 engine with it that I intend to use. It will be carbureted. I'm definitely guilty of the short term parts on other projects I've taken on (Bikes). Thanks for the input.

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Welcome! You are fine to ask that question here. There are several types you can use. Here are links to just a couple...

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...QaAksHEALw_wcB

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy...EaAqvpEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...4aAqmyEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...ruck/year/1955

Thanks will check them out.

[dennislbrooks]

I put a little twist on these in my 59 from one of Rickysnickers reply.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy...unts,8473.html

I think about as clean as it gets. I fabricate. Other methods may work better for you.

[dennislbrooks]

Oh welcome. Good stuff on this site.

You may have an issue to solve with your existing bellhousing mount crossmember.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by 1955 3100

That link brings me back to where I posted. Should I ask in a new post? I'm older so I will make some mistakes here haha!

Totally my Error.

I was at work on my phone with the Small Screen.

No need to listen to me about posting else where my Error

I did not have my good glasses on

I thought I clicked Welcome area

[dsraven]

the task force trucks (55 second series-meaning the advanced design trucks can also be a 55 because they were built up to the first part of 55, then the task force trucks came out in later 55. this makes them 55.1 or 55.2) came with a small block chevy in them which had front mounts on the engine. since you are new to the trucks you should consider downloading the assembly manual which shows you how the truck was put together but also shows you stuff like what the v8 engine mounts look like and where they were connected on the engine and frame. google
55-59 chevrolet truck factory assembly manual
and choose the trifive site, its a free download. i suggest to download it to a stick or directly onto your device so you always have a reference should the trifive site remove the manual
these trucks have a cross member behind the engien and it is used to support the engine from the bellhousing. the bellhousing sits on that cross member. a lot of guys remove that cross member so they can install a different engine and transmission combination. the problem with this lies in the flexing of the frame that can happen without the cross member in there. since the cross member is right about where the cab mounts are this flexing can also affect the forward cab mounts in a bad way since the cab is now what is absorbing the flex. removing the cross member is atough job if you are trying to save it because it is wider than the narrow part of the frame. it needs to be cut in half to get it out after the rivets have been drilled or ground down and hammered out. if you plan to remove the cross member you could actually leave the rivets in and cut a section out of the middle, do your engine and trans swap, then when all is said and done fab up some drop bars that will allow the section to be installed lower than it was originally. it could be bolted in if you fab the drop bars to do it that way. doing it this way will keep some integrity in the frame. you will notice that most fellas here have done the v8 with side mounts and a cross member behind the trans, like a more modern vehicle has. not a bad idea since the original v8 used mounts on the front of the engine, so if you do that front mount like original and incorporate a rear transmission cross member for the automatic that means the aluminum bellhousing on the trans is getting a lot of stress because the distance between the mounts is longer than things were made to be. so, if I were to recommend something for you to look at, on the economical end of the scale, i would say use a side mount on the engine and a rear mount on the trans, using stock parts from a newervehicle if you can-something common, but also do something with the stock cross member so it can be installed again when you're done. if at all possible install your exhaust manifolds before you do your engine mounts so you don't have interference issues with that, after the fact. usually the engine with a carb will have a 3 dgree downward slope towards the rear. you should do some pinion angle checks when done so the pinion angle is an equal but opposite angle to the engine and trans. this will make the u joints vibration cancel each other out.
if doing an auto trans you will need some sort of shifter as well. lots of guys use a floor shifter because otherwise they need to also swap the steering column or buy more adapter stuff to make the original clumn into something that will shift an auto trans.
anyway, I don't mean to hit you with a bunch of problems but if you want more info or my thoughts you are welcome to private message me.

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Totally my Error.

I was at work on my phone with the Small Screen.

No need to listen to me about posting else where my Error

I did not have my good glasses on

I thought I clicked Welcome area

No problem. I appreciate any help.

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the task force trucks (55 second series-meaning the advanced design trucks can also be a 55 because they were built up to the first part of 55, then the task force trucks came out in later 55. this makes them 55.1 or 55.2) came with a small block chevy in them which had front mounts on the engine. since you are new to the trucks you should consider downloading the assembly manual which shows you how the truck was put together but also shows you stuff like what the v8 engine mounts look like and where they were connected on the engine and frame. google
55-59 chevrolet truck factory assembly manual
and choose the trifive site, its a free download. i suggest to download it to a stick or directly onto your device so you always have a reference should the trifive site remove the manual
these trucks have a cross member behind the engien and it is used to support the engine from the bellhousing. the bellhousing sits on that cross member. a lot of guys remove that cross member so they can install a different engine and transmission combination. the problem with this lies in the flexing of the frame that can happen without the cross member in there. since the cross member is right about where the cab mounts are this flexing can also affect the forward cab mounts in a bad way since the cab is now what is absorbing the flex. removing the cross member is atough job if you are trying to save it because it is wider than the narrow part of the frame. it needs to be cut in half to get it out after the rivets have been drilled or ground down and hammered out. if you plan to remove the cross member you could actually leave the rivets in and cut a section out of the middle, do your engine and trans swap, then when all is said and done fab up some drop bars that will allow the section to be installed lower than it was originally. it could be bolted in if you fab the drop bars to do it that way. doing it this way will keep some integrity in the frame. you will notice that most fellas here have done the v8 with side mounts and a cross member behind the trans, like a more modern vehicle has. not a bad idea since the original v8 used mounts on the front of the engine, so if you do that front mount like original and incorporate a rear transmission cross member for the automatic that means the aluminum bellhousing on the trans is getting a lot of stress because the distance between the mounts is longer than things were made to be. so, if I were to recommend something for you to look at, on the economical end of the scale, i would say use a side mount on the engine and a rear mount on the trans, using stock parts from a newervehicle if you can-something common, but also do something with the stock cross member so it can be installed again when you're done. if at all possible install your exhaust manifolds before you do your engine mounts so you don't have interference issues with that, after the fact. usually the engine with a carb will have a 3 dgree downward slope towards the rear. you should do some pinion angle checks when done so the pinion angle is an equal but opposite angle to the engine and trans. this will make the u joints vibration cancel each other out.
if doing an auto trans you will need some sort of shifter as well. lots of guys use a floor shifter because otherwise they need to also swap the steering column or buy more adapter stuff to make the original clumn into something that will shift an auto trans.
anyway, I don't mean to hit you with a bunch of problems but if you want more info or my thoughts you are welcome to private message me.

Lots of info. Thank you for your time and good ideas. I'm sure there will be alot of learning on my end. I signed up for this site because I was reading alot on here and it has people smarter and with a lot more experience than myself. In other words Thank you and you can never have too much info.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by 1955 3100

That link brings me back to where I posted. Should I ask in a new post? I'm older so I will make some mistakes here haha!

Starting a build thread is up you but you may want to wait until you have a few photos to post on the actual build.

As far as a specific question goes, most of the time it is best to start a new thread for that question rather than sticking it on the tail end of your older thread or one a thread that someone else asked pretty well the same question. Thing is,your question gets lost both ways, A lot of guys on any board don't read through a thread before posting an answer. They comment on your original post and go on to the next thread, Same as tacking it on someone else's question, Guys answer the old question again but miss yours. Asking a question on a build thread that is specific to the build works though.

A 55 TF pickup with a 350/350 is pretty simple in the long run. You do need side mounts on the engine but there are several ways to do those including the universal tube crossmember under the engine that can be paired with a matching crossmember under the transmisson. Pretty simple and easy to set up and not that spendy.

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Starting a build thread is up you but you may want to wait until you have a few photos to post on the actual build.

As far as a specific question goes, most of the time it is best to start a new thread for that question rather than sticking it on the tail end of your older thread or one a thread that someone else asked pretty well the same question. Thing is,your question gets lost both ways, A lot of guys on any board don't read through a thread before posting an answer. They comment on your original post and go on to the next thread, Same as tacking it on someone else's question, Guys answer the old question again but miss yours. Asking a question on a build thread that is specific to the build works though.

A 55 TF pickup with a 350/350 is pretty simple in the long run. You do need side mounts on the engine but there are several ways to do those including the universal tube crossmember under the engine that can be paired with a matching crossmember under the transmisson. Pretty simple and easy to set up and not that spendy.

Thank you for the helpful hints. I have to figure some things out, like distance between the firewall and distributor. And distance between radiator and fan. Going in for a knee replacement on Tuesday the 11th, so will be a bit and then will start a build thread.

[Rickysnickers]

Best wishes on your surgery!

[dsraven]

good luck with the knee deal, big part of it is being your own advocate for physio therapy. I know quite a few people who have had knees done and some have the mindset that the operation and the physiotherapist are what fixes the knee, they just have to show up to the appointments. i gotta tell you there is a huge difference between those guys compared to the guys who are out doing their best to build the muscle back and also doing range of motion exceesises. the physio is just there to check up on you and dole out more excersises and show you how to do them correctly as you progress.
anyway, it will give you time to think about your project, look at how others have done their's etc. if going with the original solid axle remember that the axle moves up and down right under the oil pan so you gotta leave room for that if you plan to lower the truck. there needs to be room for the distributor out back and the water pump/fan out front. some sort of fan shroud is also an asset. there are different length water pumps available as well as different types of belt drives. some belt drives use a serpentine belt and some of thwese will require a different water pump as it turns the pump backwards compared to the v belt style. i personally like to use as many stock parts as possible because they are readily available at a parts store on a long weekend in backwater towns. aset of stock side mount engine mounts from something really common could easily be adapted to work with some home made frame mounts or a cross member kit from a speed shop. the cross member that is originally used to support the bellbousing could be section cut out in the middle, the new drivetrain could be assembled and a new trans mount cpould be made up at the rear of the trans using, again, a common trans mount, then the old cross member could be made to fit back into place with a bolt in design so it supports the frame like it used to in order to keep the frame rails from flexing which affects the cab mounts.
I suggest to remove the fuel tank from the cab area, thats just me, and place it further back on the chassis, which can help with weight transfer and keep the leaks and fumes out of the personal space
I suggest to replace the single system master cylinder with a dual circuit master cylinder. they are available to fit the stock mounts and make the truck a safer ride. going through the whole system would be a great idea, looking for rusty spots on the steel lines, wet spots at connections, cracked or chaffed rubber lines, etc. if you plan on going with a power brake system you may consider the hydroboost set up for an under floor type set up because they give you awesome boost compared to a smaller duel diaphragm vac booster. there are lots of guys on here who have done that set up so a few new posts with that title will get you lots of answers and how-to's when the time comes. a disc brake conversion up front would yield better stopping power with less lane changes under hard braking
a cable operated throttle linkage works well. yes, these trucks did come with the v8 so there is solid linkage available but the cable set up doesn't care if the engine moves under torque, the solid linkage type will notice engine movement
when you are laid up is a great time to ponder, price different set ups and ask the group how to do things and what to watch for
Happy Easter

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Best wishes on your surgery!

Thank you very much.

[1955 3100]

Originally Posted by dsraven

good luck with the knee deal, big part of it is being your own advocate for physio therapy. I know quite a few people who have had knees done and some have the mindset that the operation and the physiotherapist are what fixes the knee, they just have to show up to the appointments. i gotta tell you there is a huge difference between those guys compared to the guys who are out doing their best to build the muscle back and also doing range of motion exceesises. the physio is just there to check up on you and dole out more excersises and show you how to do them correctly as you progress.
anyway, it will give you time to think about your project, look at how others have done their's etc. if going with the original solid axle remember that the axle moves up and down right under the oil pan so you gotta leave room for that if you plan to lower the truck. there needs to be room for the distributor out back and the water pump/fan out front. some sort of fan shroud is also an asset. there are different length water pumps available as well as different types of belt drives. some belt drives use a serpentine belt and some of thwese will require a different water pump as it turns the pump backwards compared to the v belt style. i personally like to use as many stock parts as possible because they are readily available at a parts store on a long weekend in backwater towns. aset of stock side mount engine mounts from something really common could easily be adapted to work with some home made frame mounts or a cross member kit from a speed shop. the cross member that is originally used to support the bellbousing could be section cut out in the middle, the new drivetrain could be assembled and a new trans mount cpould be made up at the rear of the trans using, again, a common trans mount, then the old cross member could be made to fit back into place with a bolt in design so it supports the frame like it used to in order to keep the frame rails from flexing which affects the cab mounts.
I suggest to remove the fuel tank from the cab area, thats just me, and place it further back on the chassis, which can help with weight transfer and keep the leaks and fumes out of the personal space
I suggest to replace the single system master cylinder with a dual circuit master cylinder. they are available to fit the stock mounts and make the truck a safer ride. going through the whole system would be a great idea, looking for rusty spots on the steel lines, wet spots at connections, cracked or chaffed rubber lines, etc. if you plan on going with a power brake system you may consider the hydroboost set up for an under floor type set up because they give you awesome boost compared to a smaller duel diaphragm vac booster. there are lots of guys on here who have done that set up so a few new posts with that title will get you lots of answers and how-to's when the time comes. a disc brake conversion up front would yield better stopping power with less lane changes under hard braking
a cable operated throttle linkage works well. yes, these trucks did come with the v8 so there is solid linkage available but the cable set up doesn't care if the engine moves under torque, the solid linkage type will notice engine movement
when you are laid up is a great time to ponder, price different set ups and ask the group how to do things and what to watch for
Happy Easter

Thanks, I'm sure once I get started I will need pointers on things I know I may overlook. Have a great day.

[ApacheProject]

Good luck with your knee and your truck. Looks like a good project to start out with, it takes time but well worth it when you finally get it on the road again.

[semn49]

Welcome to the site.
Nice '55. Plenty of helpful information here.
Back to the 50's car show at the state fairgrounds June 23rd -25th.

[1955 3100]

I will definately go to the Back to the 50's show to get ideas. The surgery went very good. Start PT on Tuesday. Already walking without any assistance of a walker or cane, but carry the cane just in case. Looking forward to starting the project. Thanks everyone.