55.2-59 Cutting steering column to length

[popeyestruck]

Using to cpp 400 kit and keeping the original column shift column on my 59. Trying to use these instructions but I'm confused. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/po...traight-axles/ I cant figure out how much to cut off the shaft. If you look at the photos it says he wants to shorten the column 3 inches but then shows a photo of him marking the shaft at 3/4 inch. The rag joint adds about an inch so I would need to remove 1 inch just to get back to stock length . If anyone has done this how much should I remove from the column to get it off my chest but have to gear shift still work?

[mr48chev]

I did a drawing that should explain it but in simple terms

At the top the end the steering wheel goes on has to stick out the same exact distance it did before. you may want to put the wheel and attending pieces back on to make sure that you have that length correct if you can't figure itout from witness marks on the shaft. If you haven't done any cutting and the tube is still on the shaft you can use a marker to mark the shaft to tell how far it has to stick out.

The "three inches longer than the tube is the three inches that the bottom of the shaft will stick out of the tube and bearing when you have it back together.

Normally folks cut the tube and shaft off the box down close to the box, lay them on the bench and take the shaft shaft out of the tube, stick the tube backin the truck if they didn't mark the tube before they cut it out or want to slide the tube in a bit for belly clearance (gotta watch knee clearance though) or to work with the depth of the dish of a different steering wheel and mark the tube as to how long they want it to stick out of the firewall.

Then they cut the tube to length and insert the bearing and put the shaft back in and with the top at the right mark measure the 3 inches at the bottom and cut the shaft.

[dsraven]

here is a link to ecklers swap using the/an old column. not a lot of room between the floor and the box input on this one. not sure if there is much difference with the cp400 box. anyway, maybe help you.
https://www.ecklers.com/tech/classic...teering-column

[dsraven]

yeah, I get it, probably a car in the write up. the sme principles apply though.

[popeyestruck]

Still a bit confused but at least the Ecklers came with instructions . I bought from CPP and it has no instructions. Thanks everyone I'll try to figure this out today, I may just cut the shaft an inch or 2 and test fit as I go if I have to. I was hoping someone would remember what they cut off and could give me a reference point to start with.

[dsraven]

what I have done before is to mock it up using some plumbing pipe, like ABS or PVC, that is the same outside diameter as the stock steering tube. hang the pipe in there and cable tie it to the column hanger loose enough so it allows some forced movement if required. stick your steering wheel on the end of that and sit in the seat so you can push or pull the mock up column so it feels right. get in and out of the cab a few times to check that it will work. of course you need the seat in there and a wheel that is the same offset and diameter as the one you plan to use when done. line up the pipe with the steering box as best you can. when you get it right you can mark the floor level on the pipe so you know you need to add the appropriate amount of pipe below that mark to allow for a bearing, shifter (if using one on the column) and some sort of clamp to hold the lower end of the column at the flor level. most guys put that clamp on the inside of the truck, but just saying you need one. then after you have cut the stock column tube you need to assemble it roughly at the top end and allow for room to clamp on the u joint at the bottom, or whatever you plan to use down there.

[Hcb3200]

You are correct you can always cut it down.
I started a lot longer than "suggested" then just took off a inch after test fitting.
Just a little extra grind time.

[mr48chev]

As many times as folks across the net ask how to install somethign from CPP I'd have to say that they tend to think that folks installing their products are experienced pro caliber builders rather than hobbiests who may be working on their first enthusiast vehicle.

If you read most any old factory service manual from the 40's or 50's the writers never assumed that the person reading the instructions had ever done that task before or had a lot of experience. They wrote complete instructions in simple basic terms that most anyone who could read could follow. If you have read a copy of "How to fix your VW bug for Dummies" the writer assumed that the reader had absolutely no mechanical experience but walked a lot of bug owners through their own repairs back in the day.

If you don't have the column out yet, take your marker and mark it where it exits the firewall , there probably will be witness marks anyhow but that is our firewall mark when you are out on the bench with it. Cutting the shaft and tube off in the truck or out is up to you.

Personally I would put the new box in place and have it all bolted up before I started modifiying the column.

Get it in place and grab that length of 1/2 PVC that has been tucked away since that plumbing job, that broom handle from the broom your wife threw out but you saved the handle, or what ever else you have around that is around 3/4 in diameter and long enough that has no value otherwise. Use that as dsraven suggested to figure out your length.

You probably don't need exactly three inches of shaft sticking out below the bearing but you need enough so the piece that attaches to the shaft fits and still clears the bearing.

While figuring out the length, if you are changing steering wheels factor in the dish of the wheel and where the wheel is going to sit compared to where the original one did or where you want it to sit for comfort. That way you don't get it all together and figure out that that new custom wheel is up under your chin or down hitting your knees.

Most important, take decent photos and post them and ask if you run into a problem before you proceed. It's a lot easier to give good and correct answers to a question if the asker posts clear, well lit, and good quality photos of what they are asking about.

[popeyestruck]

Cut the shaft down an inch and the tube about 2 inches and it sits pretty nice. easy peasy. Ran into one small issue with the shift box. The little nub that rides in the slot on the tube was pretty worn out and dented inward just enough that it wouldnt grab . Banged the dent out and cleaned it up and its grabbing but not by a lot. Probably when I get it all tightened up it will grab better but I'm going to try to find the bottom part of the box to replace it. If i need to I guess I could drill it out and put a cap head bolt in it and a nut underneath. Maybe someone has one they are no longer using that switched to a floor shift or automatic. Anyone on here have one they want to get rid of?

[mr48chev]

Boy Howdy, I need to slow down and read every word as I somehow missed the "keep the original column shifter" thing.

1. have you got enough room between the new steering box and the firewall for the column shift box? Yes/No ?

Most measurements in these directions for kits are a suggestion and not an absolute.

You need enough of the tube sticking past the the shifter -
For the flange on the column saver to clear the shifter.

You "could" modify the bearing saver body a tad so it will slip up in the tube as I have shown and be butt up against the shifter. That means you have to make clearance in the body of the column saver for the screws that hold the shifter. A bit of grinding in a couple of spots. That is IF you don't have the space to have a tube long enough for the column saver to clear the screws and bumps around them that are inside the tube.

You just need enough shaft sticking out of the column saver bearing to safely attach the coupler and have a bit of clearance between the coupler and the bearing.

[popeyestruck]

Thats pretty much how mine turned out. Didnt have to modify the slot in the tube , just left everything as it was above the lower bearing