wheels

[karlbenz]

Looking at a 73 c50 with the elusive 20" wheels. I've been reading that semi truck wheels will bolt up? Which are the best to go with? This will be a work truck, nothing fancy. Thanks

[CarolinaHD]

The majority of these trucks had 20" wheels, it's 22.5" that everyone is after.
Budd or dayton wheels? Budd wheels have 10 or 5 studs and bolt on like a normal vehicle. Dayton hubs use wedges that bolt on the outer edge of the wheel.

No semi wheel will bolt up to that truck. The c70 and bigger trucks used the common 10 lug semi truck pattern.

Wheels now makes a 22.5" dayton wheel that will bolt up to your truck.

You'll find that the brake system is another major hold up on these trucks. What looks like a good price for a heavy work truck ends up costing 3x or 4x the initial purchase price for just wheels tires and brakes.

[CarolinaHD]

Comparison pic

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by CarolinaHD

Comparison pic

Thanks for the info. this one has the bud wheels with only 5 lugs on front. Did a quick search for brake shoes. Not much out there. What do people do for parts on these trucks? Or do they just sell them once they find out

[CarolinaHD]

I spent weeks researching part numbers and cross referencing them with napa and rock auto. Ended up getting everything I needed except rear brake pads which can be relined by a specialty shop. If I were to do it again I would swap axles instead. That still leaves the booster/master cylinder to figure out.

I swapped in a c5500 brake master and hydroboost but it doesn't work very good without the electric assist pump running. I have another hydroboost setup from a 2011 3500 that I still need to swap in.

That 1973 will have 2 master cylinders and 2 boosters. Usually a master cylinder mounted on the firewall and another down on the frame rail with a double booster.

[karlbenz]

Originally Posted by CarolinaHD

I spent weeks researching part numbers and cross referencing them with napa and rock auto. Ended up getting everything I needed except rear brake pads which can be relined by a specialty shop. If I were to do it again I would swap axles instead. That still leaves the booster/master cylinder to figure out.

I swapped in a c5500 brake master and hydroboost but it doesn't work very good without the electric assist pump running. I have another hydroboost setup from a 2011 3500 that I still need to swap in.

That 1973 will have 2 master cylinders and 2 boosters. Usually a master cylinder mounted on the firewall and another down on the frame rail with a double booster.

you wouldn't happen to have part numbers still?
What would be a decent fit for an axle swap?

[karlbenz]

Maybe I’ll just mount the body on a 1 ton frame.
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[LynnB]

If you think getting parts for your old Chevy is bad, try getting parts for a 49 Studebaker 2R16A. Studebaker? Why am I on a Chevy truck forum, you ask? My truck has a "more modern" (i.e. 1971) engine and trans out of a Chevy grain truck.

Years ago, getting original brake shoes relined was super easy. It is a dying art. There is ONE place left in the OKC metro that does it. When I did brakes on my truck I took the shoes to that one place and had them relined. I rebuilt the wheel cylinders (you can't find them).

They lasted a couple years and started leaking. So, I removed them and sent to the White Post Restoration to be brass sleeved. A little expensive, but it is a forever fix. Brakes are still working fine.

[karlbenz]

Ended up with a 65 c60. Has 10 bolts on front wheels 🤷*♂️.