Tank distribution valve

[michael bustamante]

So this 67 I just picked up has three gas tanks. Two saddles and one in the cab and I'm pulling them all out and cleaning them and replacing all the lines of the lines are full of varnish gel and the tanks or have old gas in them needs to be cleaned out and flushed. But my question is about the distribution valve which is located right under the driver side seat. How in the heck do you take this off the cab of the truck? Am I going to have to remove this carpet to get to it or can I just take the school off of the handle and unscrew it from the bottom?

[Stocker]

Pretty sure you'll have to lift up the carpet. If it's like mine, the bolts come down from the top and there are nuts on the bottom of the bolts. Look at it from under the truck, you might get lucky and be able to unscrew or unbolt it from the bottom. Since these are aftermarket / dealer add-ons, each truck might have had it installed a bit differently.

[Steeveedee]

I replaced mine several years ago. I'll go out tomorrow and look at it. Dagbone if I remember, ATM.

[michael bustamante]

cool thanks guys... turns out my carpet is glued down so i really hope i donthave to to lift it. if i do i know it will tear and then ill have to replace it. .
theres a wingnut on the bottom sid of the valve,, but man i cant move it!!. ill brakek cleanit when i get home then pb blast it and lets see what happens

[Steeveedee]

Yup, bolt heads under the carpet on mine.

[PbFut]

If it is on a 67, they are aftermarket and may be mounted a number of different ways. Mostly, the valve would be mounted with 2 screws aor small bolts under the carpet. I have parts to an old valve you are welcome to if needed. Be very careful and not force rotating the valve if it is stuck. There are a couple pins that will sheer off inside the valve if forced. Also There is an electric valve that you can use to replace. If you are cleaning you may as well add gauge senders and return lines to help with vapor lock. The electric valve will route the the fuel flow for supply and return and sender signals so wiring is pretty simple. 3 tanks takes 2 valve assemblies. I can help with wiring and line setup. I just finished my set of 3 tanks. Now I simply rotate a 3 position rotary switch to select the tank. Fuel and sender signal is selected with one click of the knob.

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by PbFut

If it is on a 67, they are aftermarket and may be mounted a number of different ways. Mostly, the valve would be mounted with 2 screws aor small bolts under the carpet. I have parts to an old valve you are welcome to if needed. Be very careful and not force rotating the valve if it is stuck. There are a couple pins that will sheer off inside the valve if forced. Also There is an electric valve that you can use to replace. If you are cleaning you may as well add gauge senders and return lines to help with vapor lock. The electric valve will route the the fuel flow for supply and return and sender signals so wiring is pretty simple. 3 tanks takes 2 valve assemblies. I can help with wiring and line setup. I just finished my set of 3 tanks. Now I simply rotate a 3 position rotary switch to select the tank. Fuel and sender signal is selected with one click of the knob.

yeah this sounds real interesting.... this definatly needs return lines but where would they return to? theres no canister,
and an electric switch i think would be perfect. my is seized. I was hoping to soak it in carb cleaner to unseize it
the 2 saddle tanks are fiberglass! i didnt even know they did that in 67, i have no idea what to use to clean those

[PbFut]

I did not know they made fiberglass tanks either. Well easy to add nipples and repair.
As for cleaning, that's easy if not too bad of shape. Some good degreaser detergent should get most out. If the varnish is too tough, not sure. Techron mixed with something? Just test on outside first that it does not soften the resign in the fiberglass.
I think you will like the electric valve set up. It works really well. If you need help with the switch let me know. It's a bit tricky to get your head around the wiring using 4 poles and 3 positions and controlling 2 valves that require the 12V polarity to reverse to activate the throw in the valve motor. But I found it fun to figure out and very simple once you see it.

[michael bustamante]

Cool man thank you very much! I'll get on Amazon now and see whats on there

[PbFut]

Here are the parts I used.
The 3 port valve is simply a 6 port with rubber caps and less expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need this plug.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And here is the switch I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Knob to match interior. You will need to modify the shaft on the switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[michael bustamante]

So cool. I'm looking into it right now!

[dmjlambert]

Hi PbFut, can you show a wiring diagram? I am also interested in this topic.

[PbFut]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Hi PbFut, can you show a wiring diagram? I am also interested in this topic.

Yes. It will take me a bit and it will be crude as I have no experience/education on the subject.

[kwmech]

For reference: https://www.andersonbrass.com/selector-valves

[RichardJ]

That switch is a poor choice for automotive use. You need to find one that is enclosed and sealed from dust.

[PbFut]

Originally Posted by kwmech

For reference: https://www.andersonbrass.com/selector-valves

If you don't care about out of sync gauge vs tank via user error, then for sure this is easier and in a way more reliable.

Originally Posted by RichardJ

That switch is a poor choice for automotive use. You need to find one that is enclosed and sealed from dust.

If its a Daily driver or in dusty conditions, then I would agree. But for the occasional use truck this will work fine for years and the dirt will be a gradual fail. Not likely to strand you. An enclosed will be pricey I bet but certainly much better choice.

[Hotcorner]

Originally Posted by kwmech

For reference: https://www.andersonbrass.com/selector-valves

Yep, that’s what mine looks like. Mine is just inside the threshold.

[PbFut]

Attached is a schematic for the switch and list of wire connections and gas line Port connections for the valves. All the bridge connections on the switch can be done using short or even bare wire given the pins are exposed.
Understand this is for a 3 tank set up. If only 2 tanks than simply follow the schematic in the boxed instructions.
I pulled the fuse photo from this sight a while ago. Sorry don't recall the member so I can't give credit.
I used 12 Gauge auto wire. Even after a few cycles in a row, I sensed no heating of the wire or switch. A 10 amp fuse is recommended in the manufactures literature.

For simplification to me, I did not draw a schematic of the valve connections. I think it is easier to follow with simply a list of the leads on the valve.

It was a fun project to do but it is for sure not going to meet every users need. It works perfect for my needs. I switch the supply, return and sender signal, with one click on a 3 position rotary switch in the same position as the original tank selector switch. No flip flopping tanks, no overfill of the main, no out of sync fuel gauge.

[dmjlambert]

I made the fuse box diagram.

That schematic is pretty complicated and it took me a while to figure it out. It is very interesting. I was having trouble figuring out how a 3 port valve would be used to switch between 3 tanks, but I see now you use 2 of the valves. That is clever.

Do you think the valves draw power all the while the electricity is applied to them, or do they only draw power long enough to switch the valve to the desired position and then internally disconnect power and will stay in the switched position even with the 12V switched disconnected? I was wondering if using momentary contact switches would be feasible.

That is interesting about the return lines filling up the main tank. Is that applicable only to fuel pumps that have return lines? Mine is a 1969 truck and the fuel pump only has a port in from the tank and port out to the carburetor. So I suppose the setups with return line would be for those later trucks such as 71 and 72, is that right?

I have been thinking of using a brass valve down on the floor, and push a sheet aluminum arm with a hole in it onto the rotating shaft and put a dob of glue to hold it to the shaft, and glue a magnet on the end of the arm, and then position 3 reed switches at the 3 positions the arm points to when you select a tank, in order to switch the sender signals to the gas gauge.

I would bet that switch could be enclosed in a plastic box or large pill bottle, or even wrap it in a baggie, and the contacts could be treated with some bulb grease, to make it automotive and dust friendly.

[dmjlambert]

Possible revision: I may get one of those brass valves and glue a tiny neodymium magnet of N52 or higher strength under the end of the selector lever, and put the 3 reed switches under the carpet.

I do like the electric valve idea as well, so that is hard to resist.