55.2-59 WTB: 3600 Steering Arm

[mikeyptv]

Hey friends! I'm on the hunt for a set of steering arms from a second series truck. I have a 1957 3100 Panel with stock suspension and steering, and a really hairy ride after about 50mph.

This forum has set me on a good path to getting it all straightened out (pun intended), but part of that formula is the stiffer and stronger 3600 steering arms.

I haven't seen anything available through, LMC, Brothers, ClassicTruck, or even NAPA. Anybody have a lead, or a set they're willing to part with?

From what I understand they're a direct bolt on, please advise if you know any differently!

[mr48chev]

I doubt seriously that any aftermarket steering arms for these units were ever made.

I'd say that you have other and maybe more serious issues than steering arm flex that is quite doubtful as being the problem though. Meaning worn bushings, incorrect caster, worn steering box or tie rod ends or toe in not correct, Too wide and or deep of a revese on the front wheels.

[Hcb3200]

Mikey I have a 1956 chevy that had stock for years and still does other than power steering added.
They do not make the steering arms but I doubt that is your issue. unless its bent.

If you are running all stock then look for play at tie rod ends. you can take out that slack by adjusting the end after you take out cotter pin.
That solved a lot of mine.
Second make sure your spring shackles are in good shape. One of mine had some play and spring was moving more than it should. get new ones if well worn.

If you are running stock tires make sure your alignment is up to shape. also adding more caster may help.

check for any play in steering spindles as well as in the tire bearings.

Then move to your steering wheel shaft and pitman arm. check for any play there. you can adjust the steering box to take it out if you do.


Once all these were tightened up i felt comfortable up to 75/80 on smooth road. rough pothole roads don't care how much you do on a straight axle you really just have to take it in stride and guess which way its going to go.

as to aftermarket you can upgrade your tie rod and tie rod ends but unless the play is in the ball joint its not going to make much difference.

all my little play here and there sure added up.

[1project2many]

Before anything, follow the advice in the first two posts. Make sure the front end is in good condition and try to find someone that knows how to make changes to caster and camber if needed. Caster adjustment requires tapered shims at the axle. Camber changes require bending the axle!

Also, consider installing a front sway bar. I'd start with one from a YJ jeep, 87-95 Wrangler. Getting rid of the rock n roll will make that truck drive very differently.



With that said, I will vouch for better steering with 3600 steering arms. I've posted a video of the LH 1/2 ton steering arm flexing and I've installed 3600 arms on my 3200 1/2 ton truck. Noticeable differences include better steering accuracy (the truck goes where you steer it) and less steering input required while driving.

I spent a long time watching Ebay for the parts. I would search for part numbers as well as searches like "chevy truck steering arm" or "gmc steering arm" and look through thousands of results. I would limit the results by including a year or year range in quotes. "1957" chevy truck steering arm gets very different results than 1957 chevy truck steering arm. If it helps, LH arm part numbers were 3667727 and later 3713017. The only RH part number I have is 3728383.

The steering arms will bolt right to the spindles using existing bolts. My 3200 drag link fit the 3600 steering arm with no issues. I also re-used my 1/2 ton tie rod ends which required getting ball studs to mount in the steering arms. I purchased these studs and was ready to purchase the TRE rebuild kit if needed. The toe was significantly changed with the replacement arms installed so I had to make some crude adjustments to drive home then I paid a local shop for a "toe n go" alignment later.

The next step for me will be rebuilding the steering box, or at least trying to replace the output shaft bushings. 67 years of wear does add up.

[Hcb3200]

I agree only way your going to find them watching all the ebay / forums for sale.
a Swap meet would be a really good spot.
or if your lucky a old salvage yard somewhere that sell vintage.

[nvrdone]

Try All American auto parts in Vancouver WA. They have many Chevy trucks plus a huge warehouse of parts. May be worth a call.

[mr48chev]

Before you spend any money read post 3 very closely and follow what he said. Get someone to rock the steering wheel back and forth slowly while you are under the truck looking at every connection in the steering and suspension. Start at the steering box and work your way out one tie rod end at a time and then while they put a little more grunt into turning the wheel look at every bushing in the springs and shackles to see if anything is moving when it shouldn't. Then check the king pins.

Toe in should be 1/8th in. Caster for todays roads should be between three and five degrees positive depending on the feel you want. The 1 degree positive was good for the skinny bias tires on the roads most folks had to drive on in the 50's when 55 or 60 was good highway speed but even then guys who put a lot of highway miles on their rigs ran more caster than stock trucks did so they would track straight. Camber is a non issue unless the axle got bent.