Cab patch panels order of operations?

[CivilEGR]

First time doing any bodywork ever, so expect a bunch of questions in the near future.

I've pulled what was left of the outer rocker panel off and I'm working my way forward. It looks like I need to replace the whole lower A pillar, but I also need to replace the inner toe kick area, the inner rocker, some of the floor, and most importantly the cab mount.

Should I just cut everything out and start building back? Or should I go in a certain order?

[Grounded63]

If you cut everything out and try to rebuild it. You'll have no reference points for the replacement panels/patches. Because they are offen not stamped/shaped well. Any reference or mounting holes are generally not well located.

One of the worst fitting parts, when I did my drivers side. Was the cab mount. From where your at now. I'd remove the cab mount but leave everything else intact. Remove the mounting hardware, and torch cut the bulk of the mount away. Then drill or grind any spot welds holding the flanges on. Get the new cab mount fit to the inner structure, floor, and bolted to the inner rocker/A pillar. It needs to fit correctly without inducing stress in any of the panels it attaches to. Otherwise it will shift when you unbolt it from the A pillar. Get it tacked or plug welded well to the inner structure. You may need to reform the flanges, and possibly, fill and re-drill the mounting holes. On the A pillar side. This will establish the The correct mounting location for the inner rocker, inner and outer A pillar sections.

Next I'd cut the outer A pillar off, and fit up the patch panel. Once again you may have to fill the mounting holes and re-drill them if they do not align well. Set this aside once you have it fit up. ( If you can seam it in, at or below where the outer rocker ends. It will save you some weld clean up/bodywork time. Because, it won't be exposed in the jam area. ) but it looks pretty close in your Pic.

Next cut out the inner A pillar section. And fit it up similar to the outer. This side will be exposed in the footwell area. Generally it's best if you cut out the rusted section and fit the patch panel to the area. Rather than use the the full panel. ( Which is generally the case for most patch panels. Save as much of the factory steel as practical. Use the least amount of import patch panels. ) Set this piece aside also once you have it fit up for welding.

Now you can work on the floor/inner rocker. I would get some height and reference measurements ( at various points, generally i would do this before any real cutting begins, and during. ) for the outside edge/corner of the floor/rocker. Before, you cut it off completely. Cut it out for where you want to seam in the patch panel. At this time finish weld the cab mount to the inner structure. If you didnt get it completely welded before. Patch, weld, and clean up the toeboard area. Reinstall the body mount bushings. Fit the floor patch panel(s) Once the floor panels are fitting well to the existing floor. Prior to welding them in. Check that the body mounting hole, is properly positioned. If your going that far in. You may need to reposition it. ( I did on mine ) also check the fitment of the inner A pillar patch to the floor patch. ( Or you can also save fitting it until this time. ) They make two different patch panels for this area. One of them fits more correctly than the other.

So once your here, weld in and clean up the welds, for the floor/rocker. Then weld and clean up the inner A pillar. Then weld and clean up the outer A pillar. At this point you'll want to hang the door and align it to the cab. The hinges should be in good condition or rebuilt. If you have a drill press or mill. Id drill the the hinges for location/alignment pins. It will make removing/replacing the door multiple times, if needed. Much faster, with consistent door gap alignment each time. Then start checking the fitment of the outer rocker.

[raylube]

Following

[CivilEGR]

That order makes sense. I'll work block up this corner of the cab so the A pillar is supported, then remove the last bolt and grind out what's left of the cab support. I'm wondering if I can salvage the flange portions of the A pillar because they have the nuts welded in them, and the replacements don't.

[Grounded63]

It might be possible to save the flanges. But it might also be more work, and the back side is sure to be rusted and pitted. For mock up and fitment, just use bolts/nuts/washers. And, once everything is back together, just weld new nuts on. You can get similar square nuts to weld on at an Ace/True value.

[Lokin4AReason]

just take as many foto s as you can along w measuring everything twice , imo

[SkinnyG]

Just for another approach:

I did my '61 from inner rockers/floor out (and everything you're looking at on yours), but had to make changes to the doors to fit right. My cab was off the chassis. If you're taking the cab off the chassis - you're going to want to brace the snot out of it before you cut anything.

I would fix the bottom the a-pillar and inner toe panel first.

Then I would hang the door, making the top and side gaps as much the same as you can. Recognize the assembly quality from the factory is garbage, and not even symmetrically garbage.

Attach the outer rocker to the cab making sure the bottom door gap is what you want.

Then attach inner rocker or inner-rocker/floor, whatever it is you bought.

Then attach the cab mount. In theory the cab mounts are really critical, but everything is really sloppy.

ALSO: I welded a sleeve inside the cab mounts so they do not crush when tightened.

ALSO: I added drain holes to the bottom of the A-pillars so they can drain out the inner rocker

ALSO: My gosh nothing fits "as purchased."

There are a lot of different ways to do this.

[scottofksu]

Building on what other's have said, for me, I started where failure will be most apparent (i.e., on the "outside" of the truck where panel misalignment is noticeable). This means you want as many points of original reference as possible. This is why I started at the rocker; so I could align the outer rocker to to the cab corner, door, fender, and then inner rocker. Then I did the cab corner, inner fender, and other supports having already marked my bold holes and other original alignments to the new metal that will undoubtedly have to be "massaged" into fitting as stock. Fortunately I lucked into this sequence as I too had never done body work until starting on this truck! Just remember when welding sheet metal - high heat and low wire speed while tacking and then stitching to keep the heat down and not warp the panels.

[Grounded63]

@ SkinnyG my '63 had/has a reinforcement piece that is welded to the cab structure. That is located inside of the cab support/brace at the body mount location. To prevent it from crushing like your sleave. From the top it kind looks like a horse shoe with flanges on the legs. Did your '62 not have those ?

[SkinnyG]

There was no reinforcement in the replacements, and I don't recall seeing them in what was left of the original. I think it's 60-62 that are unique in a lot of areas.

I did not have to cut the bolt area out of the original rear mounts, so I don't know what was in there.

[Braunschweiger]

The original can be seen here,
I built a bracket to keep it in position.

[x1buellist]

I'm going to be doing the same thing to my truck. I found this video on how to go about it pretty good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSG4..._Vqtp&index=44

[Grounded63]

When your fitting up for butt welds, especially on exposed panels. Usually the tighter fitting, and especially the straighter fitting they are. The less heat distortion you'll have, after final welding. After cutting out where I need a patch panel. I'll file the edges to get them straight. Then scribe the patch panel to that panel. Trim and file to fit. Usually you'll end up with less heat distortion. If you spot/stich weld from one end to the other. Rather than jumping around like he shows in the video. I will also prep the underside of the panel prior to welding it on. Much easier to do. Than from under the vehicle, if you want to epoxy or paint it afterwards.