JB TankWeld technique

[guyryan100]

Hi,
I have a leak in my 20 year old steel blazer tank, its located behind the strap, about 3 inches up from the bottom (its on the side of the tank). It is a 1/16" round hole. I don't detect any other weak spots.

I'm going to attempt the JB TankWeld product. I'm contemplating tightening a small screw into the hole, tightening it down through the JB stuff before it cures and pressing JB over and around the screw head, or skipping the screw and just using JB.

Obviously this low in the tank, the patch will have gas sitting against it at all times.

Has anyone attempted this technique?

Ryan

[kwmech]

I would pull it out and have it cleaned and a soldered patch put on from a radiator shop

[1970cstblazer]

If this is a '69-'72 Blazer, the new tanks with correct filler neck are just over $200.

[LNP]

I have used JB Weld for tanks before it works well. The big key is to be sure the arear is clean of "everything". Sand it to help the JB bite in tight and use thinner to clean away any conminates from the area. I use regular JB at my shop to fix all kinds of stuff for customers. If done right it works great.

[Sheepdip]

JB Weld is good stuff but....a patch is still a patch.

[guyryan100]

My plan is to give JB a try, if it fails at least I tried. This is a Blazer tank mounted under the bed of a 67 stepside, and has a custom fill tube that I would prefer not to have to recreate on a new tank, so my plan is to first try the patch, if that fails remove the tank and inspect it to determine Plan B.

Thoughts on using a screw vs just JB Weld?

[best view]

This may sound silly but couldn’t you fill it with water then weld it

[LNP]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

JB Weld is good stuff but....a patch is still a patch.

Very true but like me not all of us can buy everything new.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The screw idea sounds good to me. If the screw stops the leak long enough the JBW will set up dry.

George

[cj847]

I used some kind of fuel tank epoxy stuff (might have been jb weld) on a tank a couple of years ago. Put it on while the leak as actively dripping. I sanded the spot and stuck it on. It worked great. About a year later another leak developed in another spot and I patched it the same way. Then I bought a new tank.

Summary: you don't need the screw. The stuff works great. But, start saving for a new tank. I highly doubt that is the only weak spot.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by guyryan100

My plan is to give JB a try, if it fails at least I tried. This is a Blazer tank mounted under the bed of a 67 stepside, and has a custom fill tube that I would prefer not to have to recreate on a new tank, so my plan is to first try the patch, if that fails remove the tank and inspect it to determine Plan B.

Thoughts on using a screw vs just JB Weld?

Since you do plan to patch it .

I would use the screw and JB weld.

Then put Seal-All over the Jb-Weld.
Seal all last a long time.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-3801.../dp/B008VK0JS4

[57taskforce]

I’ve used JB a couple times on an old S-10 blazer gas tank. It was the clay type stuff they make specifically for gas tanks and it works really well even when it’s dripping fuel from the hole.

[guyryan100]

Update - I did try JB Weld and so far its working. I put a screw into the hole and buried that in the JB Weld TankWeld product. I let it cure for a week and put half a tank of gas in, so far no leaks.

If that ever changes and it leaks I'll post a revision.

[jocko]

Maybe skip the JB Weld, put a rubber gasket on the screw and you now have a drain plug