Any ideas on how I can stop column shift linkage hitting brake booster on my 6810?

[HeavyHauler]

I have a custom power brake booster mount bracket on my 1968 Chevy C10 shortbed which puts the booster closer to the firewall and i also installed a brand new Tuff Stuff 9in booster TFF-2224NB when I converted my truck to 4wheel disc brakes. As most know the factory booster bracket sticks out from the firewall a good distance but I have never liked that but at least it wouldnt have caused the problem I am having now.

My 68 is originally a 396 engine with 400 turbo automatic and column shift. There is a very long shift rod that is attached to a shift lever down at the trans then goes up near the power brake booster to a lever there.

The problem is that the shift lever on the column is hitting the bottom of the brake booster. My temporary fix was to rotate my column so I could at least get it in some gears but it is very difficult getting it into park and now the gear selector on the column is not reading correctly which I knew would happen.

The shift rod and lever look to be factory and so does the entire steering column. Ignore the position of the shift rod in the pic because I already adjusted it down but now the shift lever itself hits the booster.

Anybody have any good ideas on how I can make my current set up work?

Maybe there is a different factory C10 column that puts the shift lever lower on the column and would clear the booster?

Is there a way to somehow push the column down further so that the shift linkage does not hit the booster?

[HO455]

Why not trim the end of the rod? Cut it around where the green lines are. Seems to me to be simple and cheap. Do a clean job and repaint and it's unlikely anyone will ever notice.

[Sheepdip]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^What HO455 Said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[PbFut]

Agree. Is the rod the only thing hitting. Seams simple to me. One of the most useful tools in my tool box is a cut off tool. Go to harbor freight and pick one up along with a pack of wheels and eye protection. It will make the job under 5 minutes including clean up and finding a place to store the tool.

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by HO455

Why not trim the end of the rod? Cut it around where the green lines are. Seems to me to be simple and cheap. Do a clean job and repaint and it's unlikely anyone will ever notice.

There is adjustment on that rod so I had adjusted the rod lower so that top portion didnt stick up so high.... but it is the bracket/lever that holds the rod that is now hitting the bottom of the booster.

Are you saying instead of adjusting the rod lower that simply cutting the rod would work?

By adjusting that rod lower did I misadjust the gear shift lever?

if you look at my shift lever it is also very close to the booster will be able to only move up and rest on that detent bump located on the shifter plate which has the detent that separates reverse and park position before the lever hits the bottom of the booster and when it does my shift lever is right on top of the detent bump on that "shifter detent plate"

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by HeavyHauler

There is adjustment on that rod so I had adjusted the rod lower so that top portion didnt stick up so high.... but it is the bracket/lever that holds the rod that is now hitting the bottom of the booster.

Are you saying instead of adjusting the rod lower that simply cutting the rod would work?

By adjusting that rod lower did I misadjust the gear shift lever?

if you look at my shift lever it is also very close to the booster will be able to only move up and rest on that detent bump located on the shifter plate which has the detent that separates reverse and park position before the lever hits the bottom of the booster and when it does my shift lever is right on top of the detent bump on that "shifter detent plate"

The factory bracket had the booster farther away from the firewall and all parts "played well together".. When you changed (redesigned) that bracket, it created an interference problem.. Adjusting the column angle and adjusting the linkage created more problems.. The solution, as I see it, is simply go back to the original designed bracket and return the column and linkage to their original settings.

[kwmech]

I'd put the right brake booster and bracket on, but that's just me putting parts on that were designed for the truck

[pjmoreland]

There is a collapsible slip joint at the bottom end of the steering shaft that is held in place by plastic pins. Some people like to drill out these pins so they can collapse the joint and move their steering wheel closer to the dash to improve driver comfort. Maybe performing this modification would allow your shifter linkage to clear your brake booster by placing it in front of the booster. I'm having a hard time telling from your photos how far forward the shifter linkage would have to move. Taking some measurements first would help to determine whether this would work.

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

The factory bracket had the booster farther away from the firewall and all parts "played well together".. When you changed (redesigned) that bracket, it created an interference problem.. Adjusting the column angle and adjusting the linkage created more problems.. The solution, as I see it, is simply go back to the original designed bracket and return the column and linkage to their original settings.

Yes I know I could go back to factory but i sure like the 4 wheel disc brakes that I have and the clean look in the engine compartment of the current setup.

I was just trying to see if I was missing anything that would make my current setup work before having to switch everything and buy all new parts again.

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

There is a collapsible slip joint at the bottom end of the steering shaft that is held in place by plastic pins. Some people like to drill out these pins so they can collapse the joint and move their steering wheel closer to the dash to improve driver comfort. Maybe performing this modification would allow your shifter linkage to clear your brake booster by placing it in front of the booster. I'm having a hard time telling from your photos how far forward the shifter linkage would have to move. Taking some measurements first would help to determine whether this would work.

I will try to get some accurate measurements and post them.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Could just use a dual-diaphragm booster, or go hydraboost

[HeavyHauler]

Is there another year of C10 steering column or other truck column that puts the shift lever lower on the column?

Switching out the column would be alot easier than swapping out my booster, mastercylinder and lines, rear discs and everything then having to bleed the system again and figuring out what brake rod I would need. Losing my rear disc brakes not to mention the cost of buying everything again.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Have you looked into a Hurst or B&M floor shifter, and changing the Column to a Non-Shift type?

[notsolo]

Possibly move booster out 1.5 " and change brake pedal push rod.