Transmission / clutch install questions - 3OTT

[Bruce F]

Hi All - I have never done this before but I am currently re-assembling my 69 Stepside with a rebuilt 230 inline 6, new clutch and a rebuild 3 speed Saginaw.

A few questions
1. the resurfaced flywheel and new clutch are installed on the back of the engine. Do I a) install the bellhousing next ? or do I b) bolt the transmission to the bellhousing 1st and mate both to the motor together ?

2. if "a" above when do I install the clutch fork onto the pivot ball- before transmission install or after ?

3. the clutch fork has retaining spring clip on the pivot ball. Mine was broken but ordered a new one. This clip is curved, when I install it in the fork is the curve facing me or away from me? ( I searched threads and saw one saying concave facing me and another saying convex facing me)

any input appreciated - cheers Bruce

[Dashman]

Did you use a pilot bearing centering tool before you tightened the pressure plate bolts?

I believe you could go either way. I think it would be easier if the bellhousing was bolted to the transmission first just because of the clutch fork and throwout bearing. They'd already be over the input sleeve. You'd just be finding the pilot bearing hole through the clutch splines.

I think you could enter into Google search some key words such as: "67-72 clutch fork retaining spring clip", and find some worthy photos.

[72SB]

I have always done this sequence

replace pilot pushing
install flywheel
install disc using the spline tool that comes with clutch kit (I actually have a 10 tooth input shaft to use)
install PP but push straight in on spline tool so clutch does not "hang" on it to tighten PP bolts)
Bell housing
clutch fork and TO but not "clipped" on.
Stab trans and bolt in.
push fork on pivot ball
connect fork and clutch pedal linkage
attach shifter
install drive shaft

[Bruce F]

thanks Dashman - yes I used the plastic centering tool that came with the clutch kit .

thanks 72 SB

replace pilot pushing - Done - used brass type one - kit had steel
install flywheel - Done - new bolts torques to 60 ft lbs
install disc using the spline tool that comes with clutch kit (I actually have a 10 tooth input shaft to use) - Done
install PP but push straight in on spline tool so clutch does not "hang" on it to tighten PP bolts) - Done -torqued to 45lb with a dab of blue loctite. - plastic spline tool goes in and out freely.

up next -
Bell housing
clutch fork and TO but not "clipped" on.
Stab trans and bolt in.
push fork on pivot ball
connect fork and clutch pedal linkage
attach shifter
install drive shaft

[Bruce F]

also - i am not sure if it matters or changes the feedback, but the engine is still out of the truck , i plan to install engine and tranny together as that is how i took it out . Bruce

[Accelo]

Confirm the transmission fits the pilot bearing before installing the clutch.
Do not pull the transmission in with the bolts.
I have seen many a transmission case with broken ears caused by this.
There is a void inside the throw-out bearing that is meant to be a grease reservoir. Be sure to add grease to this void if the bearing manufacturer has not already done this.
Some grease the nose of the transmission where the bearing runs. It all works but do no install without and grease/dry.

I have found it easier to install the fork on the pivot ball before installing the transmission.
Cheers.

[Bruce F]

thanks Accelo; I appreciate the advice on pre-fitting

a question on your comment " I have found it easier to install the fork on the pivot ball before installing the transmission" .

Does this mean you install the clutch fork on the pivot ball - then slip the throw out bearing into the clutch fork - and then slide the transmission shaft through the throw out bearing?

Bruce

[geezer#99]

Before you get too far!
What clutch kit are you using?

[Bruce F]

hi Geezer 99

the clutch kit i purchased was from Rock Auto

the brand is PERFECTION CLUTCH MU54731B (MU5473-1B) Clutch Kit

Bruce

[geezer#99]

Can you post a link to it?
Better yet, a pic of it.
Just a concern on parts compatibility.

[Dashman]

There may be an alignment issue with tightening the bolts from the transmission to the bellhousing. Just to clarify and refer to my Haynes manual:

"21 Install the clutch fork... Attach the release bearing..."
"22 Install the bellhousing."
"23 Install the transmission."

You will need a hand on the clutch fork while guiding the transmission through until it gets on the input sleeve.

[Bruce F]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Can you post a link to it?
Better yet, a pic of it.
Just a concern on parts compatibility.

Hi Geezer - here is a link to Rock Auto for the clutch kit I have - thanks Bruce

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=1993&jsn=3

[geezer#99]

If the kit you got matches the parts in the pic then you’re good.
Sometimes parts assemblers will put the wrong length throw out bearing in the box thinking they all look the same.
The flat finger pressure plate uses a long tob.
The raised finger pressure plate uses a short tob.

[Bruce F]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

If the kit you got matches the parts in the pic then you’re good.
Sometimes parts assemblers will put the wrong length throw out bearing in the box thinking they all look the same.
The flat finger pressure plate uses a long tob.
The raised finger pressure plate uses a short tob.

Thanks

the parts do match the pics and they look the same as the old ones that have been on there since at least 1989 when i bought the truck.

I appreciate all the input and answers to my questions. I have a path forward now.

this forum is great !!!

cheers Bruce

[72SB]

actually its better to test fit new pilot bushing on input shaft before installing pilot. With that said, any one I ever got was the right size

I also put a very light coat of wheel bearing grease (the red stuff) in the splines of input shaft before clutch install and run the disc onto shaft and clean the excess grease off. You can use the old disc to do this also. I find over a long time the disc never hangs on input shaft

If engine and trans are out, piece of cake putting the two together. You need quite a tilt though to get them in using a cherry picker. One of those adjustable crank (threaded) hangers helps. When its almost in, use a floor jack to raise trans tail so engine can get all the way onto mounts.

[mr48chev]

I'm probably late to the party but one thing that has saved a bunch of grief for me when installing transmissions either stick or automatic is to take a couple of correct size and thread bolts that are several inches longer than what is needed to hold the trans in and cut the heads off the transmission in place and use them as guide pins as long as it is a straight shot to get them out. I have a couple that I have sawn screwdriver slots in to be able to remove them easy. That way you can get it straight and centered and the weight of the transmission never hangs on the clutch disk potentially bending it. The transmission should pop into place with not much more than a little pushing and wiggling and you should never have to suck it up in place with bolts.

[geezer#99]

One more tip especially if you use the dowels like mr48 suggests.
Always put the trans in reverse.
Reason being if the splines on the input shaft don’t quite line up with the disc splines, a quick twist on the output shaft will line it up.

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by Bruce F

thanks Accelo; I appreciate the advice on pre-fitting

a question on your comment " I have found it easier to install the fork on the pivot ball before installing the transmission" .

Does this mean you install the clutch fork on the pivot ball - then slip the throw out bearing into the clutch fork - and then slide the transmission shaft through the throw out bearing?

Bruce

Yes, exactly how I do it.
The spring that fits the groove in the bearing retains it in place.
Just be sure the spring isn't broken. It is quite common.