Power disc brake upgrade

[hairball]

Good morning,
I am looking to upgrade to front power disc brakes on my 65 C10. I see a kit from Right Stuff part #TDC6326D sold by Summit that I am interested in. Looks like it has what I need, 2 inch drop, and fits 6 lug 15 inch wheels and what seems like decent price. Does anyone have experience with this kit or can suggest something else in this price range?
Thanks,
Hairball

[Chevy Fleetside]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=727826

[franken]

You might be able to swap the front crossmember from what 71-81 easily. A vac assist is pretty basic.

[theastronaut]

I used a CPP dual master cylinder on my '66 and left them manual, and CPP's disc/spindle kit. It stops great without excessive pedal effort even though they're manual. I've seen too many aftermarket boosters come apart at the crimped seam lately to trust an aftermarket brake kit. A 1" master cylinder worked great for me, or if you want an easier pedal a 7/8 M/C would make more line pressure than a 1" for the same input force. Remember that without ABS you don't want an easy pedal, you'll just lock up the wheels and slide uncontrollably instead of being able to modulate the brakes in a panic stop.


I used a separate hold off valve in the front line, and an adjustable proportioning valve plus a 10 psi residual valve in the rear line.







Swapping a whole crossmember was a good idea back in the 80s-90s but those are all old and worn out by now, plus the 63-70 a-arm cross shafts are a better design than the rubber 73-87 bushings.


If you're dead set on using a booster, use an oem setup. Aftermarket ones could kill you, these guys got lucky.

[dmjlambert]

That is interesting. I like my manual disc brakes on my 1969, I think I will repeat using the same type parts for my 1963 C10. I prefer the feel of manual brakes. I have 71-72 parts (spindle/calipers/master cylinder/combination valve) with 1.125 bore master cylinder on my 1969 and it doesn't take a lot of pedal effort.