47-59 1959 Apache Drivers side upper door hinge recess question

[Steveoreno]

Guys, I am working on a 59 and replacing the entire kick panel, cowl area of the drivers side. While I have the "A" pillar exposed I noted that the upper hinge recess is bent in slightly and ripped in the upper and lower right corners. Thinking that it is old damage I started to bend it back in preparation of welding the ripped corners and remembered that I had seen this "defect" somewhere else. After surfing a bit I found the picture in a build article and show the hinge area in question. This is my first truck build of this era and I have nothing to compare it with so I ask you....is this supposed to look this way? Thanks a million. -Steve-

[dsraven]

I have not seen one that looks like that.
if you are new to the task force trucks you really should consider downloading a free copy of the 55-59 cherolet truck factory assembly manual. i suggest to download to a thumb drive, if you use a laptop or desktop computer, but also download to a device so you can have it nearby for reference when working on the truck (or waiting for your wife at the shoe store, lol)
the trifive site has a free download.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...hgNerbXG4oM_J-

[dsraven]

that entire piece of the dogleg, from the bottom up around the windshield opening and including part of the inner cowl, is available. super spendy though

[dsraven]

https://classicparts.com/chevy-gmc/t...a-pillar-right

[dsraven]

if your lower hinge panel is rotted i will assume you have looked further into it and found the whole corner there is suspect, from the step on up to about the floor level. this is due to the cowl vents allowing rain water, snow etc to enter. that would be ok except for the cowls only have a tiny drain hole at the bottom and it is partially covered with a flap of tin. that means anything that comes in the cowl grille in front of the windshield gets washed down and becomes a dam/plug. water builds up inside the cowl until it can drain out on the cab floor through the cab floor vents on the kick panels. then it runs off down towards the step where it has the oportunity to rust out the hinge pullar, the fender mount lower bracket, the cab mount that is welded to the step panel, the floorboard front section and sometimes even worse as the inner cowls rot as well. if you haven't already done this then i suggest to install the doors, align as good as can be axpected given the condition of the sheet metal around them (I stuck the doors in place and shimmed them in the gaps with paint stir sticks) and then weld in some bracing in the inside of the door opening and from side to side across the front of the cab above the floor to enable work to be done. this stiffens the cab structure and holds it in shape while you have the structure cut away. otherwise you run the chance that you will do a bunch of replacement panels and welding etc but when done the door doesn't fit in the opening anymore.
when these get bad enough the cab front mounts give out and the cab ends up sitting on the frame by the floor rather than the cab mounts. the truck can look like a bannana shape if you stand back and look close or take a pic and look objectively.

[dsraven]

whatever you do there, don't remove any serial number tags etc. it can really make life tough to get licensed again.

[dsraven]

I would tape over those number plates and be careful not to melt out the rivets when welding. just a thought

[dsraven]

what may have happened there, without seeing a better overal pic, is that someone was attempting to pry the door hinge over and used the opening in the hnge pillar as the base for his prybar or whatever was used. maybe a little too much muscle was used to get that job done and the sheet metal bent instead of noving the hinge over. sometimes when the hinges get replaced, instead of just getting new hinge pins and bushings, the new ones don't fit like the old ones because the original hinges were often bent to fit the door to the opening better. the new hinge doesn't have the same bend and the steel is actually pretty thick to try and bend at home without the correct tools. anyway, it looks repairable with a little hammer and dolly work finished off with a little welding. if needed those caged nuts are also available in different thread sizes and pitches
https://classicparts.com/chevy-gmc/t...ssembly-3-8-24

[dsraven]

check here for a catalgue of regularly needed patch panels and other parts. they are not the only supplier but I did a quick google search
https://classicparts.com/chevy-gmc/c...59-truck-parts

[dsraven]

here is a link to a youtube that shows the area you need to see. it is a step repair video but not too far in it shows that upper hinge mounting area. hope it helps see what it is supposed to look like
https://youtu.be/hnuEPcAhd1U?si=5y5AWEG6T4i78W3s

[dsraven]

maybe this pic will help?

[Steveoreno]

Wow! That's a lot of replays in short order!! Thank you! So I gather that the hinge area is not supposed to be bent and torn in the corners...I didn't think so but wanted t make sure. I have all the body rot that you could possibly have in a 59, I'm going with full kick panels, cowls, "A" pillar bottoms, steps, inner cab corners, outer cab corners, lower front fender mounts, etc. etc. I have 1" steel bracing already welded in to hold the cab solid, I've taped over both cab serial number panels and have already replaced the lower "A" Pillar, front floor, and front left cab mount. Placing the kick panel tomorrow. It makes me nervous that there are so many panels that must be placed exactly right or the door fit will be compromised. Just moving slowly....its a Napco, short box, 1/2 ton. Thanks again for the help. -Steve-

[Steveoreno]

The video was a big help, thanks again!!