lowering and alignment question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Casper42 · 01-21-2025, 01:49 PM

if and when is alignment needed?

I installed CPP drop coils - 2" front, 3" rear with lowering shocks...no new spindles, C-notch, or panhard. A test drive reveals no issues, other than an occasional pop and creak when hitting a dip or at times making a turn - likely settling new hardware.

I've read that I should drive for a week or two before having the alignment inspected/adjusted, while one pro shop recommended I have it done right away. Another said it's not needed at all unless I note a issue, because the tie rods were not disconnected/reinstalled.

Your thoughts are appreciated. Happy New Year!

**Accelo** · 01-21-2025, 02:51 PM

You can do major damage to your tires in a week. Get it aligned as is.
Running out of travel on the upper A-arm where it bolts to the frame is possible.
Hopefully, you will not have this issue.
If you do, run out of travel, there are many solutions.
Running tubular A-arms
Relocation of the ball joint
Modifying the length of the A-arm by welding our purchasing modified one.
Likely another solution I haven't thought of also.

weq92f · 01-21-2025, 08:38 PM

.

Do it yourself. I helped(watched) a buddy align his 2002ish ram 1/2 ton using hand tools on the shop floor. A simple device is used to extend the plane of both front wheels horizontally such that tape measures can be used to accurately spec various geometry metrics. He didn't do caster/camber but managed the toe adjustment in less than 30 minutes. caster/camber can also be measured/set using a tool such as the one below. Simple toe adjustment can also be accomplished with good old string and anchors like in the link.

tool example
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28559258377...32523ab4b09873

Using string:
https://blog.1aauto.com/diy-wheel-al...e-by-yourself/

-Kevin

72c20customcamper · 01-21-2025, 08:42 PM

Do it as soon as possible . By lowering the truck with springs you changed the geometry of the front wheels . By not changing or disconnecting the tie rods you may not have changed the toe but the drop definitely affects the camber and caster

Joyridin · 01-22-2025, 12:16 PM

Have it done right away, but avoid the shop that said you didn't need to have it done. They have no clue what they are talking about.

You changed the caster, camber, and probably the toe even if you did not unhook the tie rods. It may not be enough to notice, but it more than likely changed and not for the good.

**HO455** · 01-22-2025, 01:01 PM

By all means as stated above get it aligned. Personally I would avoid the shop that said it didn't need to be done.

SCOTI · 01-22-2025, 01:13 PM

I fully agree w/72c20customcamper, Joyridin, & HO455.

Get it in for alignment sooner than later if you plan to continue using the current front tires.

And, as mentioned.... avoid the shop that said there's no need because the TRE's weren't disconnected. While there is some truth to that in certain situations, yours is not one of them.

**Rust_never_sleeps** · 01-22-2025, 04:13 PM

Mine is stock height, I matched the lengths of the tie rods, never touched the shims, and it was way off :shrug:
They did stick me pretty good for a "classic vehicle" alignment, so one of the alignment tools would pay for itself quickly if you can get both toe-in and camber set at home

I was pretty good with trigonometry 45 years ago, but haven't used it much recently ;-)

SCOTI · 01-22-2025, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Mine is stock height, I matched the lengths of the tie rods, never touched the shims, and it was way off :shrug:
They did stick me pretty good for a "classic vehicle" alignment, so one of the alignment tools would pay for itself quickly if you can get both toe-in and camber set at home

I was pretty good with trigonometry 45 years ago, but haven't used it much recently ;-)

The issue w/that is they can all impact each other. Get Toe & Camber adjusted @ home & then take it to the shop to get Caster set? They start adding or subtracting shims to dial in that Caster & now your 'preset' Toe & Camber will be different.

This is why it's good to have a set-up that allows adjusting things together if you plan to DIY. The numbers can be dialed in for each so that they all work together.

Casper42 · 01-22-2025, 08:30 PM

thank you everyone for your input ✅

01-21-2025, 01:49 PM	#1
Casper42 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 340	lowering and alignment question if and when is alignment needed? I installed CPP drop coils - 2" front, 3" rear with lowering shocks...no new spindles, C-notch, or panhard. A test drive reveals no issues, other than an occasional pop and creak when hitting a dip or at times making a turn - likely settling new hardware. I've read that I should drive for a week or two before having the alignment inspected/adjusted, while one pro shop recommended I have it done right away. Another said it's not needed at all unless I note a issue, because the tie rods were not disconnected/reinstalled. Your thoughts are appreciated. Happy New Year! __________________ '72 C10 Cheyenne SWB North Carolina truck for 50 years, 72k original miles, Medium/Hawaiian Blue, 3 owners - one for 40 years, garaged kept, original: sheetmetal, undercarriage, moldings, glass * * * New - engine rebuild at 65k in 2015, one repaint in 2010, new front bumper, houndstooth seat, carpet, 8 inch rally wheels on 275-60R-15, LED lighting. - Semper Paratus!

01-21-2025, 02:51 PM	#2
Accelo Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: washington Posts: 2,321	Re: lowering and alignment question You can do major damage to your tires in a week. Get it aligned as is. Running out of travel on the upper A-arm where it bolts to the frame is possible. Hopefully, you will not have this issue. If you do, run out of travel, there are many solutions. Running tubular A-arms Relocation of the ball joint Modifying the length of the A-arm by welding our purchasing modified one. Likely another solution I haven't thought of also.

01-21-2025, 08:38 PM	#3
weq92f Registered User Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Dallas Texas Posts: 3,267	Re: lowering and alignment question . Do it yourself. I helped(watched) a buddy align his 2002ish ram 1/2 ton using hand tools on the shop floor. A simple device is used to extend the plane of both front wheels horizontally such that tape measures can be used to accurately spec various geometry metrics. He didn't do caster/camber but managed the toe adjustment in less than 30 minutes. caster/camber can also be measured/set using a tool such as the one below. Simple toe adjustment can also be accomplished with good old string and anchors like in the link. tool example https://www.ebay.com/itm/28559258377...32523ab4b09873 Using string: https://blog.1aauto.com/diy-wheel-al...e-by-yourself/ -Kevin Attached Images __________________ 67 C10 fleet fuel injected '70 402, 700r4, 3.73 posi 07 335 sport turbo 6sp 94 Trans Am GT LT1 6sp posi -- sold after 22yrs 99 540 sport V8 6sp -- sold 73 240z L24 4sp -- given to friend 68 C10 step 350/350 3.73 open -- sold

01-21-2025, 08:42 PM	#4
72c20customcamper Registered User Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Catskill Mountains,NY Posts: 8,791	Re: lowering and alignment question Do it as soon as possible . By lowering the truck with springs you changed the geometry of the front wheels . By not changing or disconnecting the tie rods you may not have changed the toe but the drop definitely affects the camber and caster __________________ Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary.

01-22-2025, 12:16 PM	#5
Joyridin Registered User Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 562	Re: lowering and alignment question Have it done right away, but avoid the shop that said you didn't need to have it done. They have no clue what they are talking about. You changed the caster, camber, and probably the toe even if you did not unhook the tie rods. It may not be enough to notice, but it more than likely changed and not for the good.

01-22-2025, 01:01 PM	#6
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,469	Re: lowering and alignment question By all means as stated above get it aligned. Personally I would avoid the shop that said it didn't need to be done. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

01-22-2025, 01:13 PM	#7
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,094	Re: lowering and alignment question I fully agree w/72c20customcamper, Joyridin, & HO455. Get it in for alignment sooner than later if you plan to continue using the current front tires. And, as mentioned.... avoid the shop that said there's no need because the TRE's weren't disconnected. While there is some truth to that in certain situations, yours is not one of them. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-22-2025, 04:13 PM	#8
Rust_never_sleeps Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2022 Location: San Ramon,CA Posts: 637	Re: lowering and alignment question Mine is stock height, I matched the lengths of the tie rods, never touched the shims, and it was way off :shrug: They did stick me pretty good for a "classic vehicle" alignment, so one of the alignment tools would pay for itself quickly if you can get both toe-in and camber set at home I was pretty good with trigonometry 45 years ago, but haven't used it much recently ;-) __________________ 1970 C10 Custom longbed 350/350 Code: __ ______\|__]\____ ....\|___(o)_____(o)_]

01-22-2025, 08:30 PM	#10
Casper42 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 340	Re: lowering and alignment question thank you everyone for your input ✅ __________________ '72 C10 Cheyenne SWB North Carolina truck for 50 years, 72k original miles, Medium/Hawaiian Blue, 3 owners - one for 40 years, garaged kept, original: sheetmetal, undercarriage, moldings, glass * * * New - engine rebuild at 65k in 2015, one repaint in 2010, new front bumper, houndstooth seat, carpet, 8 inch rally wheels on 275-60R-15, LED lighting. - Semper Paratus!



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