Question for Electrical Experts; Fuse panel dead.

[WorkinLonghorn]

My '69 has nothing working, yet the large red wire that feeds the fuse block is live on the engine bay side. I can't remember how to fix this. Any ideas? I'm not getting any readings on the cab side of the fuse block. Much thanks, Brian

[PbFut]

There are always hot pins on the cab side. If you are hot on engine side and dead on cab side, I would look for corrosion on that top right pin on the engine side. That pin is the power source for 95% of the truck. If you find the cab side does have always hot pins, I suspect your key switch has failed.

[WorkinLonghorn]

How the heck do you get that fuse block apart, some sort of very slim 11/32" nut driver? The ones I have are too fat. Red wire is hot going in from the engine bay. Nothing works. I ran a hotwire to the ignition switch and at least now I can start and drive including headlights but gauges, turn and stop lights, etc. still dead. Thanks.

[leftybass209]

The power wire comes in and terminates on pins that are riveted to the plastic housing. from there, the hot wire branches to the headlights/horn and off to the ignition switch.

If you can't get a 12v signal at the unfused male spade on the fuse panel, then the issue is most likely as PbFut said.

To remove the fuse panel... First remove the engine/headlight firewall harness. There is a center screw that should help "pull" the plastic harness off. If it is broken or breaks, you'll have to gently pry it away, and it separates into two halves. you can inspect the male side of the pin there and see if there's any issues. I had an issue with a newer harness that used that black goo to seal it. When it got hot it ran and coated the pins, causing significant resistance.

Under the dash, there is two screws holding the plastic fuse panel to the firewall. once removed, you can gently pry the two plastic halves apart. They are pegged together tightly, and can break with too much pressure. Once that's apart, start probing with your multimeter. If the problem is so bad you have complete resistance and 0 volts, any corrosion or disconnection should be fairly obvious. Nut drivers and/or 1/4 inch drive ratchet worked for me. Generic Craftsman... nothing special or thin wall.

How is the truck wiring otherwise? Do the grounds and battery cables look good?

[WorkinLonghorn]

Ground and Bat. cables are good. It cranks and runs fine with headlights and charging after I "hot-wired" it (short section of wire through the firewall to the Ign. switch. I took the plastic connector on the engine bay side off and it looked OK. I just can't get any of my sockets or drivers onto that fuse panel bolt under the dash.
Fuse panel is dead. I guess I just need to find the right tool and get going. Thanks.