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Old 04-10-2025, 02:17 PM   #1
68isgreat
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241c xfer case wiring in a 68 k10

Hi all,

I have a 241c passenger drop xfer case (from a 1990 Suburban) behind a 700r4 and crate 350 tbi that I've installed in my 68 K10 and everything is working great so far. Engine runs perfect and I couldn't be happier so far. I have the VSS hooked up to a Painless harness, but it has no provision for the two terminal 4wd switch near the shift lever. Once I get a connector pigtail for the switch, I'm not sure how to wire it? All the other threads I see are for three terminal switches.

I also bought a 1990 suburban floor shifter housing with rubber boot and with the light inside. Am I correct in assuming that one wire from the switch would connect to my headlight switch through the light in the floor housing, and the other goes to a ground on the engine? I will be installing Dakota gauges or similar also, so shouldn't there also be a wire going to a 4x4 light in my gauge panel or dash? I'm concerned about my new rebuilt trans shifting correctly and it knowing when 4x4 is engaged, and I don't want to mess up the wiring or my transmission. Here is a pic of my setup. I've connected the front driveshaft and have attached a skid plate since this pic was taken. You can see the 4x4 switch connector near the shifter (the plastic at the top got broken in transit but I assume the switch still works) and the VSS near the tail shaft.

Thanks!



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Old 04-10-2025, 02:55 PM   #2
57taskforce
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Re: 241c xfer case wiring in a 68 k10

Test the switch with an OHM meter for continuity. That will tell you what it needs wiring wise. If it drops continuity in one position and has it in the other than it will be 12V in one pin and 12V out of the other, requiring the ground to be present at the bulb. This is how I’d suspect this circuit to work with a 2 pin switch.
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Old 04-10-2025, 02:59 PM   #3
68isgreat
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Re: 241c xfer case wiring in a 68 k10

Quote:
Originally Posted by 57taskforce View Post
Test the switch with an OHM meter for continuity. That will tell you what it needs wiring wise. If it drops continuity in one position and has it in the other than it will be 12V in one pin and 12V out of the other, requiring the ground to be present at the bulb. This is how I’d suspect this circuit to work with a 2 pin switch.
Ok thanks, I'll try that, and let you know what I find out. I don't understand wiring very well, so I'll need all the help I can get.
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