Cam vs stall conveter

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Hello
I was almost ready to get my truck on the road and ran into this.
I bought a 350 bored 30 with a comp 12-212-2 cam and bolted it to a th350 with stock converter I had rebuilt not knowing with that cam I’d need a 2500 stall converter.

It’s in a 72 k10 with 33s
Should I pull motor and replace torque converter or keep tranny the was it is and change out the cam,?

It’s going to be just a drive around town truck. Any advise much appreciate

[RustyPile]

Cam profile and torque converters are only a small part of the "package". Comp Cams Magnum series camshafts require much higher than stock compression ratios and higher stall speed torque converters than stock. Also lower rear gear ratios play an important role. That particular cam doesn't start making power until the 2,000 RPM range..

None of this is conducive to driving around town in a truck..

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Cam profile and torque converters are only a small part of the "package". Comp Cams Magnum series camshafts require much higher than stock compression ratios and higher stall speed torque converters than stock. Also lower rear gear ratios play an important role. That particular cam doesn't start making power until the 2,000 RPM range..

None of this is conducive to driving around town in a truck..

I don’t know much on the motor then it was a high torque 350 with that cam,
I would like to take the cam way down if possible?
Something more mild. I hate the thought of another motor or pulling to install a 2500 converter.
I can swap out the converter and friend willing to do cam if possible
If I was able to do a different cam, what would be a better fit

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Orefactory4x4 swb

>>>>>>>snip>>>>>>>>
If I was able to do a different cam, what would be a better fit

Selecting the proper cam isn't quite that simple.. There are specific details about your truck that I don't know about.. I suggest you contact one of the major cam manufacturers, Lunati, Comp Cams, Isky, etc. They will ask you lots of questions and then make a proper suggestion for a suitable cam...

[HO455]

Have you successfully broken the cam? If so with all the cam failures one hears about these days I would go with the convertor. Lot less work to swap convertors than a camshaft, even if it goes well.

That being said there's no reason you can't run it the way it is. Then if you're not happy with it change the converter next winter.

You didn't mention what gears you have in the truck. 4.11's would work better than 3.73's or higher gears with your stated combo.

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by HO455

Have you successfully broken the cam? If so with all the cam failures one hears about these days I would go with the convertor. Lot less work to swap convertors than a camshaft, even if it goes well.

That being said there's no reason you can't run it the way it is. Then if you're not happy with it change the converter next winter.

You didn't mention what gears you have in the truck. 4.11's would work better than 3.73's or higher gears with your stated combo.

Not sure on the gears.. it just states posi on the tag.
My brother in law was telling me away of checking by counting driveline rotations?
He was saying that to about get in tuned and drive.
I want the brakes to work with proper vacuum and not have to hold it back at stop lights and need it kick into neutral to keep running.
I’m going to play with it some more and see what happens
I’m going to get a piston stop and find true dead center and look for any possible vac leaks some more

[HO455]

Here is a thread about the cam.

https://www.camaros.net/threads/your...80h-cam.15353/

Here's some information on the axle codes stamped on the tube. If no one has re-geared it it should help you ID the ratio.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=578793

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by HO455

Here is a thread about the cam.

https://www.camaros.net/threads/your...80h-cam.15353/

Here's some information on the axle codes stamped on the tube. If no one has re-geared it it should help you ID the ratio.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=578793

Thank you for your help

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Good news.
I think I figured it out, kinda.
Unhooked brake boost at carb. Runs good now.
Now got to figure that out.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Brake booster vacuum hose should be connected to the intake manifold behind the carb

[57taskforce]

A stall converter is definitely not ideal behind a 3/4 ton 4x4 truck. With out extra cooling you will likely be smoking that transmission pretty quick. I would change the cam and convert it over to a roller in the process.

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

A stall converter is definitely not ideal behind a 3/4 ton 4x4 truck. With out extra cooling you will likely be smoking that transmission pretty quick. I would change the cam and convert it over to a roller in the process.

It’s a k10 motor bored in rebuild. What cam would you recommend?
Some say 12-211-2 or a 4x4 cam

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

Brake booster vacuum hose should be connected to the intake manifold behind the carb

Plug back hole. Connect to manifold. Where would vac gauge transmission and distributed all connect to the two ports up front on the 1906 carb?

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Any thoughts on a comp Xtreme cl 12-262-4
Or summit 1103

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Well the forum seems a little useless for help.
So I guess I’ll take my chances with AI
And order the summit 1102 and see what happens

[57taskforce]

Well it is a long holiday weekend. Some of us at least haven’t been around much, myself included. You could always pick up the phone and call comp. Which truthfully I wouldn’t touch one of their flat tappet cams with a 10 foot pole. I know of several issues from the last few years with their cams going flat even with proper zinc and break in. As I said above I would look into a roller cam retrofit, to expound on that further is difficult without knowing what your compression ratio is, piston type, (flat top vs valve relief) actual bore size, valve size, head and intake combo, and any mods to the heads like porting or cutting the guides for extra lift, etc. it’s not as easy as let’s slap a cam in and see what happens to get it right, which is partially why I’d guess you haven’t gotten much feedback. The cam is only a piece of the puzzle. I used to build engines professionally for what it’s worth. One of the 4x4 type cams is what I would want if it was mine but the exact one depends on what’s in your block.

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Well it is a long holiday weekend. Some of us at least haven’t been around much, myself included. You could always pick up the phone and call comp. Which truthfully I wouldn’t touch one of their flat tappet cams with a 10 foot pole. I know of several issues from the last few years with their cams going flat even with proper zinc and break in. As I said above I would look into a roller cam retrofit, to expound on that further is difficult without knowing what your compression ratio is, piston type, (flat top vs valve relief) actual bore size, valve size, head and intake combo, and any mods to the heads like porting or cutting the guides for extra lift, etc. it’s not as easy as let’s slap a cam in and see what happens to get it right, which is partially why I’d guess you haven’t gotten much feedback. The cam is only a piece of the puzzle. I used to build engines professionally for what it’s worth. One of the 4x4 type cams is what I would want if it was mine but the exact one depends on what’s in your block.

I know it not the right process, but that’s what I’m up against.
All I know is the 12-212-2 is way to much. Runs great but not for a truck. I don’t have a clue about compression valve size and so on.
I’m looking for a try this it’s bound to be better answer.
I’ve read this form and others all weekend.
At this point I need hillbilly feedback,not professional.
If you get where I’m coming from

[MS66]

I've had all three of these camshafts in different engines/vehicles at one time or another, none were 4x4 trucks with 33s.
The 212 Magnum is a street/strip cam that has zero business in a truck unless you were mud bogging it. It needs 10-1 cr to even think about pulling, works better with 11-1cr. Not good for a street truck. Cam needs to come out, no question about it. Even with a converter it would suck.
The 1103 cam is a great street machine cam with a decent bumpety sound and great torque compromise in the lower ranges, pulls much stronger than stock after around 2500-2800. It is a very streetable cam that can be used with stock converter with no problems. But, it really likes to be in a lighter weight vehicle than a 4x4 truck, I'd pass on that cam.
The 1102 is a sweetheart of an RV type cam with super low end torque that pulls strong to 5000. Works great with stock cast iron intake, Quadrajet carb, and original exhaust manifolds. Headers do wake it up quite a bit. This grind is what Edelbrock marketed as the Performer cam back in the '80s. I've used it in over a dozen different sbc builds, including trucks and 4x4s. It has a great sounding idle and drivability is uncompromised. Perfect truck cam.
If you want to go with a Comp Cams product the 268 High Energy cam is hard to beat and would work in your truck. It has a lumpy idle with great low end.
The Extreme Energy version that you mentioned is a step up from the 268 HE. I wouldn't use it in a truck. Just like the 1103 cam, I'd leave that for a lighter weight vehicle where it belongs. Just my experience.
The 1102 is the best choice IMHO.
HTH.

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by MS66

I've had all three of these camshafts in different engines/vehicles at one time or another, none were 4x4 trucks with 33s.
The 212 Magnum is a street/strip cam that has zero business in a truck unless you were mud bogging it. It needs 10-1 cr to even think about pulling, works better with 11-1cr. Not good for a street truck. Cam needs to come out, no question about it. Even with a converter it would suck.
The 1103 cam is a great street machine cam with a decent bumpety sound and great torque compromise in the lower ranges, pulls much stronger than stock after around 2500-2800. It is a very streetable cam that can be used with stock converter with no problems. But, it really likes to be in a lighter weight vehicle than a 4x4 truck, I'd pass on that cam.
The 1102 is a sweetheart of an RV type cam with super low end torque that pulls strong to 5000. Works great with stock cast iron intake, Quadrajet carb, and original exhaust manifolds. Headers do wake it up quite a bit. This grind is what Edelbrock marketed as the Performer cam back in the '80s. I've used it in over a dozen different sbc builds, including trucks and 4x4s. It has a great sounding idle and drivability is uncompromised. Perfect truck cam.
If you want to go with a Comp Cams product the 268 High Energy cam is hard to beat and would work in your truck. It has a lumpy idle with great low end.
The Extreme Energy version that you mentioned is a step up from the 268 HE. I wouldn't use it in a truck. Just like the 1103 cam, I'd leave that for a lighter weight vehicle where it belongs. Just my experience.
The 1102 is the best choice IMHO.
HTH.

Thanks much, appreciated a bunch

[Accelo]

Your camshaft has an intake Duration at 050-inch Lift is 230 deg.
I have a 212-duration cam and I consider it a max cam for a 4000-pound truck with 3.70 gears and a stock converter. I plan on changing the converter for better off the line performance.
The real reason for the high stall converter is it allows the motor to get into a higher rpm to produce more torque at lower speeds. Especially if you have a heavy truck.

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Your camshaft has an intake Duration at 050-inch Lift is 230 deg.
I have a 212-duration cam and I consider it a max cam for a 4000-pound truck with 3.70 gears and a stock converter. I plan on changing the converter for better off the line performance.
The real reason for the high stall converter is it allows the motor to get into a higher rpm to produce more torque at lower speeds. Especially if you have a heavy truck.

I was going to go that route and got feedback that they produce a lot of heat and would smoke tranny in time.
That’s why I’ve been leaning on changing the cam to make it more street friendly and not so much a race car feel you got to hold back.
Appreciate your feedback

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Ended up switching that out with the 1102.
Purrs like a kitten and still has a good sound with the duel magnaflows
Appreciate the feedback from the members on it
for the help

[connorm]

Originally Posted by Orefactory4x4 swb

Ended up switching that out with the 1102.
Purrs like a kitten and still has a good sound with the duel magnaflows
Appreciate the feedback from the members on it
for the help

Any update on drivability? Did you ever figure out what gears and tire sizes you are running?

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Originally Posted by connorm

Any update on drivability? Did you ever figure out what gears and tire sizes you are running?

No, but getting close. It’s 373 and went with falcon 33s
About 2 more weeks, but I’m getting excited.
I bought it from from the widow of original owner.
Drove it from he’s place to mine and with a lot of work and 4 yrs. It’s about to hit the streets of Springfield all over again

[connorm]

Originally Posted by Orefactory4x4 swb

No, but getting close. It’s 373 and went with falcon 33s

A torquey engine like that ought to go well with 3:73's and 33's. I've got 33's and 4:10's in my 70 C20 with a 307. With the stock 307 I'm not sure that it could pull 3:73's but that combo should work really well for you with the torque convertor. Let us know how it goes