Radiator Issue

[Orence1]

Been a while since I have been on the board. Things have been going well but developed a radiator leak last fall. After several failed attempts to repair with JB Weld it is time for a replacement. The truck is a 1972 C-10 LB. It was originally a small block but now sports a 402 with mild upgrades. One of the things that I am noticing as I am shopping online as that a number of vendors claim that their unit is a direct bolt in. However, when I look at the specs they are not all the same width. The OEM radiator appears to be 33" x 18" x 3". The current OEM is a 4 row. The two I am looking at are 2 rows. I am trying to stay under $300. I am also running dual electric fans. I don't tow now haul anything. Truck is strictly custom. Here are two units that appear to be size comparable to the current radiator. I would appreciate any feedback.

Jegs

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5115...RoCnCwQAvD_BwE

Summit

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-384046

[weq92f]

.

Have a look here:

https://www.championradiators.com/Ch...r-V8-1967-1972

2 Row: $214.00: 1.75" tubes, 19.25" tall x 33.13" wide x 1.75" thick
3 Row: $264.00: 0.63" tubes, 19.25" tall x 33.13" wide x 2.25" thick
4 Row: $314.00: 0.63" tubes, 19.25" tall x 33.13" wide x 2.75" thick


These have documented support on this board from a few members who have run them.

-Kevin

[Smitty]

Champion stands behind their warranty. Currently have one of their 3 core units in my ‘71. It also has 2 electric fans, only 1 works under ordinary conditions. The second comes on when the a/c is in use. Running a HO 350 with a 700R4. The three core replaces a four core that sprang a leak and was warrented.

[Luke87gt]

I got a cheap eBay special before I knew that most here seem to go with Champion

[cj847]

You may know that the radiator "hold downs" are larger for the 4 row radiator than the 3 row and below. That radiator is physically thicker than standard.

Also, make sure you are not comparing core size vs tank size. The radiator is mounted in saddles top and bottom.

[PbFut]

A good test after install and before any shroud, hose or tranny line connection is to check for continuity between radiator and support. If you find continuity, you have metal to metal contact somewhere. This will likely result in a rub that will create a leak. Find contact, correct then proceed.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by PbFut

A good test after install and before any shroud, hose or tranny line connection is to check for continuity between radiator and support. If you find continuity, you have metal to metal contact somewhere. This will likely result in a rub that will create a leak. Find contact, correct then proceed.

Great tip