installing 6" lift

[danadena1960]

I bought a used 6" lift kit a while back. I thought the Cat told me it was for a 1/2 - 3/4 ton 73-80 truck. I bought a 1977 K-20 with a 2.5 lift already installed. I recently purchased a set of 35x12.5x15 mounted on a set of 15x10 with 2" backspacing. I went to put them on the truck, no chance, could not turn the steering wheel more then a 1/4 turn with out hitting the rear of the fender. I'm thinking great, now I can put in the 6" lift.
I put in the front springs and tried to reinstall the swaybar, now way. What needs to be done with the swaybar? Next is the brake hoses. Skyjacker offers 2 different ones (FBL28 and FBL18). Does anybody know which ones I need? My truck has a GVWR of 8400 and single piston calipers. Also does anything other then the typical steering arm need to be done? I was looking at Skyjacker dual shock mount kits (67-91 GM all straight axle pickups & SUV's Dual Front 0-12" DS250 $38) for the front and (73-87 GM 3/4T PU; 77-87 1T PU; 73-91 3/4T Suburban Dual Rear 0-10" DS445 $45) for the rear, along with Rough Country Nitro 9000 shocks. Does anybody have any input on these? Now for the rear lift. I removed what I thought was the 2.5 lift blocks and went to install the 6" blocks. Problem now is the rearend housing has pin sticking up and the leaf springs also has a pin sticking down. The lift block has a hole for a pin and a pin sticking out. I had some old 3" blocks so I set one on top of the original 2.5 block. Went to install the U-bolts, no way. They seem to fit the front axe but are to narrow for the rear axe. Is this lift for a 1/2 ton? Can I get away with 2 blocks stacked on each side and order new U-bolts or do I need to order a 6" rear block kit? Now for the Front drive shaft, it has 1 small spot of bindage. Can I simply modify it myself or do I need to have something professionally done?
Thanks,
Dana

[blazerboy72]

1/2 ton u bolts will not work in the rear of a 3/4 ton. They work in the front because the 1/2 and 3/4 both have the same axle. My dad has been using stacked blocks for years, but it is illegal and not very safe.

[dalejr8]

First of all one block is just a cheap way to lift, but I think you have a death wish by stacking blocks, as far as the rest of your questions just call National Tire & Wheel (four wheeler mag) ask to talk to Mark Hayes that is a smart dude and can get you straight in one quick phone call.

[1tonswb]

To get your swaybar to fit you need a sway bar drop kit. Basically it drops the sway bar where it bolts to the frame. Ive always ditched the sway bar. Straight axle chevys seem to be fine without it after aftermarket springs are installed anyway. As for your brake hoses Gm offered two styles of calipers. The difference is the size of the banjo bolt. The older calipers have a bigger banjo bolt than the newer ones. You need to find out what size your calipers are. Your 4ich steering arm should be fine. It will pitch the draglink at a angle but that good because it eliminates bumpsteer. Steering stabilizers.......I used to run them but I found the steering wheel returns back to center better without them. If your set on them then I have a setup on ebay right now. Your pin in your rearend is not supposed to be there....my bet is they were in your blocks and loosened up. You should be able to get them out with a set of vise grips. The ubolts you have are for a half ton. Driveshaft......if you got a die grinder then your gonna have to clearance it. Hope that helps.